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Thread: Hydraulic Log Splitter WIP
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12th Aug 2018, 12:21 PM #61Diamond Member
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Out of interest what are you using for the electronic engine speed governor?
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12th Aug 2018, 02:21 PM #62Most Valued Member
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- Aug 2011
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Hi there,
I have one of these governors:
https://www.ebay.com.au/i/232615672470?chn=ps
and a proportional actuator for the carby fuel control:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ISUZU-4L...EAAOSwBPNXRdx1
For the speed sensor I'm using one of these and getting the signal off the adapter block I made that couples to the hydraulic pump.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Magnetic...nc&_stpos=3918
I didn't pay those prices BTW. I stumbled on some "new old stock"
Time will tell very shortly if I'm barking up the wrong tree with this stuff.
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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12th Aug 2018, 02:36 PM #63Most Valued Member
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Today I finished the electric motor adapter plate to couple it to the electric driven hydraulic pump. I'm kinda thinking it would have just been a little easier to run the log lifter off the main pump. The reasons for not are mostly economics as I already had this electric driven pump and matching 3/8" hose and fittings. If I wanted to run it off the main pump I would need more fittings, another spool valve and probably a flow control valve so it wouldn't launch to log over to my neighbours!
Anyway, it's done now. Attached are some pics.
Pic 1 is thehydraulic pump unit showing the reservoir.
Pic 2 is looking at the mating end of the pump unit where the motor drives
Pic 3 is the adapter plate, screws and the mating shaft I made
Pic 4 is the adapter plate mounted onto the pump (ignor the one odd screw. it's all I had in M6)
Pic 5 is the electric motor end showing the bearing mount for the armature
Pic 6 is the armature with the mating shaft I made
Pic 7 is the armature (with shaft) housed and coupled to the pump
Pic 8 is the motor body slide over
Pic 9 is the pump and motor mounted in it's place underneath on the log splitter
Initial testing shows it works OK. I need not worry about it launching a log, it's bordering on being a bit slow. But the battery is also low so will see when I have a fresh battery and the engine is running and alternator pumping juice into the battery.
Simon
Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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12th Aug 2018, 02:46 PM #64Most Valued Member
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I also made an attempt to fix the spool valve, which has a crack through the inlet port.
Here's a pic of the inlet port. Unfortunately, I used teflon tape when I initially made the connection and the pressure of the fluid has pushed some of the tape into the crack. I tried best I could to get it out but I had limited success. This may have a bearing on the success of my repair.
I have since cleaned the port with acetone and used a wicking penetrating high strength retaining fluid, similar to that suggested by Shed. I will give it 24 hours to cure and see how it goes. I don't hold much hope but for $10 it was worth a try.
Simon
Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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12th Aug 2018, 03:06 PM #65Diamond Member
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If that doesn't work, you might be able to braze or weld it. Cracked hydraulic valve
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12th Aug 2018, 03:13 PM #66Most Valued Member
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12th Aug 2018, 06:48 PM #67
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12th Aug 2018, 10:04 PM #68Most Valued Member
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Hmmm, not sure. Maybe?
I was thinking that maybe the crack in the thread is a result of me being too heavy handed when tightening the connections but if that is also a crack then it may be a fault in the casting. Tomorrow I'll re-test to see if it still leaks. The sealant will have cured for 24 hours by then. If it works then I'll never get the chance to look at that other suspected crack.
This spool valve is a Prince WLS800. Some Prince stuff is made in the US but I think these are made in China.
On a side note, today I also fixed up and wired in the alternator. The original alternator was a POS so I scored a reconditioned alternator from a 94 camry for next to nothing. The mounting was completely different so it required some "artistic license" to mount it. I even managed to keep the original fan belt! After connecting up the 2 wires from the internal voltage regulator to the lamp and voltage sense, I measured the output at 14.3V Happy with that!
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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13th Aug 2018, 02:54 PM #69Most Valued Member
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- Apr 2012
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Simon I think that you and I have a different definition of a hairline crack, that looks more like the Suez Canal
No I dont want pictures I clicked that instead of the cheesy grin.
I reckon that if the loctite does work it probably wont for long.
You have 3 uncracked threads at the end, I think you could try a parallel thread fitting to get down to those threads and use a 264 or hydraulic loctite, http://www.loctite-success.com.au/co...0compounds.pdf
One of the problems here is that using the tapered fitting is that it forces the crack to open, even a parallel fitting might do the same, if so rather than trying to weld it you could machine the surface around the port and fit a ring over this with a interference fit to support it when tightened. (nipped up, no real need to tighten).
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13th Aug 2018, 04:11 PM #70Most Valued Member
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I wondered why I had a "picture please " notification. You have fat fingers!
Anyway, yea OK so it's not a small crack. Yes I agree that a tapered thread is problematic by the nature it wants to open up the crack further. If it was the last spool valve in the world, I may be inclined to try weld it with either bronze or arc, but I have never tried either and I have never welded CI before anyway.
I'll find out hopefully when I get home if my cheerful and cheap method has worked. If not I think I will just order a new valve.
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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13th Aug 2018, 08:34 PM #71Diamond Member
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- Mar 2014
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- South of Adelaide
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Well that crack is in a hard spot to repair. If the loctite doesn't work i would try silver soldering the crack. the silver solder should wick in and seal the crack up, then reinstall the fitting with hydraulic loctite without over tightening (will check the specs at work). I though you might have been able to bore out and sleeve the port, but it wont work with that casting.
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13th Aug 2018, 08:59 PM #72Most Valued Member
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I fired up the splitter again tonight. It still leaks albeit nowhere near as much as before. So the verdict is a fail.
I was thinking that bronze welding may do it but i think that technique needs alot of heat. Silver may be the go.
Either way ive ordered another valve. I may still attempt a repair on this one at a later stage but for now i really need this thing running. Ive got a heap of wood that needs to be split and stacked so it can dry out over this spring/summer.
Cheers.
Simon
Sent from my SM-G900I using TapatalkGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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15th Aug 2018, 08:18 AM #73Most Valued Member
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So i ordered a new valve from a different supplier. Just accepted it.
Out of interest i looked up my purchase history to see when i bought the damaged splitter valve. It was july 2016.
So i thought what the heck, ill message the seller and explain my circumstances about building this project and only finding out now that the valve has a crack. Sent them the same photos i put up here.
Blow me down. They replied within hours advising that they will send me a replacement!
I bought it 2 years ago!
Thats amazing customer service.
Now ive bought a valve for no reason!
Simon
Sent from my SM-G900I using TapatalkGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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15th Aug 2018, 09:12 AM #74Senior Member
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- Jun 2016
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- Sydney
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So now you have a spare valve. That guarantees that the valve in the machine will never give any problems again.
Cheers
Roger
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15th Aug 2018, 09:53 AM #75Most Valued Member
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Yea, I really like your logic. You're most likely correct!
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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