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  1. #46
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    Apr 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    Figured I must not have it up tight enough but closer inspection shows it has a hairline crack throught the thread!
    It's a solid cast iron body so it's not like I can repair it. Don't you hate it when stuff gets old and worn out even when it's not been used?!
    Simon
    It is only on the inlet, clean it and screw the fitting back in just nipped up with this on it https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/...ctite_290.html

    Loctite® 290 Wicking Grade Threadlocker Stop Leakages & Saves $10,000 in Lost Production - Henkel

    cheers, shed

    ps. it is cheap on ebay

    pps. when i say "on it" i mean put it on the fitting and screw it in, don't put it in the thread in the valve body or it may push the loctite through and onto the spool.
    If you can sit the valve with the fitting pointing upwards then if needed you could then apply a bit more 290 around the installed thread and leave it sit for a day.

  2. #47
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    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Im open to ideas Shed but what you mean by "only on the inlet?" Its the inlet of the spool valve not of the pump. So it sees the full pressure of the system, anywhere up to 3000 psi.

    You think some hydraulic sealant may work?

    Ill give it a try. If i had some iron powder electrodes then id have a go at grinding the crack back and welding. By the time i buy a pack of those electrodes it would nearly be the same as buying a new part.

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  3. #48
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    Apr 2012
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    Healesville
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    If you clean it properly, say brake cleaner then maybe acetone and blow it out I would be surprised if it didn't work, there is not much surface area in a hairline crack for the pressure to act on.
    Not hydraulic sealant as it won't "wick in".

    or....if you have a machined surface around the port you could make a fitting with a flange with an
    o ring groove machined into the flange, or just use an annealed copper washer.

    I would try the loctite tho

    cheers, shed

  4. #49
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    Aug 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Thanks Shed. I'm going to give that a go.

    In leu of the above issues, today I received another fuel pump in the mail. This paved the way to some further testing. So today I managed to split my first log! While the hydraulic oil leak is still present, it still did not prevent me from having a play.

    Initial tests were quite disappointing, given that I am yet to complete the engine speed governor, all I could do was set the engine speed to a high idle using the carby idle set screw to about 2000 rpm. This is OK but when the motor is put under load it just would die as there is no way to increase the throttle to react to the increased engine load. I was hoping that the inertia of the engine would "absorb" the intial load and the engine would just follow through with the split but no this did not happen. I was thinking I would need to add a big flywheel which was a concern of mine all along but who can tell with these things until you try.

    I then bought some 98 octane fuel and advanced the timming a little more and man did it make a huge difference! Even with no engine speed governor, every log I presented, it would just smash through with only a modest drop in engine speed. These were logs I have had laying around for 2 years. I had tried to split them by hand with a wood splitter but it just bounced off. I soon had a pile of split wood laying all around me.

    I had to curb my enthusiam as the hydraulic oil leak soon became an issue. I still need to finish the engine speed governor as the engine would still stall if I let the ram fully extend to the end. So the engine did not have enough power under these conditions to generate the 2200psi to reach the preset pressure relief valve.

    Interestingly, with a 6 inch ram the pressures required to split even my biggest logs was still very modest at around 1200 psi. Nowhere near the 3000 psi the system is capable of.

    So while I still have a bit to do, I'm so happy that at least I have not been working on a white elephant. When you work on a project for 2 years with no guarentee it will work, it can sometimes weigh on your mind.

    I also took the time to look in the hydraulic resevoir while operating at 3000 rpm (the hydraulic pump is doing about 120 litres/min @ 3000rpm) and the fluid was calm with no sign of any bubbles or turbulence. Extremely happy with that. I still need to add another 15 litres to achieve full capacity.

    In summing up, I still need to:

    * finish the engine speed governor
    * finish the log lifter (nearly finished this)
    * repair or replace the spool valve ()
    * Add some wings to the splitter blade to increase splitting efficiency
    * paint some odd bits and pieces.
    * Add a tow ball, lights and mudguards

    Oh, I notice the hydraulic oil temp guage does not work. Some testing shows that the teflon tape on the sender has created an insulation between the sender ground and the body of the it screws into.

    I may need a new battery too.

    Anyway, heres a quick video of the first test:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Lnog_aCNn0

    Cheers,

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  5. #50
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    Aug 2009
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    East Warburton, Vic
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    That looks quick Simon. Look forward to seeing more videos of it in action once you’ve got it sorted.

    As for the spool valve, I reckon you’ll have to replace it, I had one which sounds suspiciously like you have, had to replace it no matter what I threw it it to try and repair it.
    Cheers

    DJ

  6. #51
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    Aug 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Thanks Acco.

    In that video the engine was running at about 2000 rpm, about 2/3 max speed. The hydraulic pump is rated to a max of 3000 rpm so that's the limiting speed of the system. 2000 - 2500 rpm seems to be a nice speed as it produces reasonable cycle times and reasonably low engine noise. I don't have a SPL meter but at 2000 rpm the sound level is tollerable without earmuffs. You can also hear the distinctive purr of the pump too, which sounds nice.

    Boy am I looking forward to finishing it and destroying some wood!

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  7. #52
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    Sep 2011
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    Ballarat
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    Well done Simon, very impressive.

    Phil

  8. #53
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    Jun 2016
    Location
    Sydney
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    283

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    You need to put a speed governor on the engine - something in polished brass, like at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Governor_(device)

    Cheers
    Roger

  9. #54
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    Melbourne
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    Thanks Phil.

    Roger, i watt type mechanical speed governor is my next option if i cant make this electronic governor work.

    Im already thinking ahead incase i need to make one. Im thinking of a pulley driven governor coming off the pulley that used to drive the aircon compressor. From there its a matter of scaling the weights, spring and a linkage to the carby.

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  10. #55
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    Jun 2016
    Location
    Sydney
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    Big trailer, big engine, big pump, big ram - something like that NEEDS a governor using some big brass balls.
    Btw - a bit of damping is needed to stop the balls from hunting.

    Cheers
    Roger

  11. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcaffin View Post
    Big trailer, big engine, big pump, big ram - something like that NEEDS a governor using some big brass balls.
    Btw - a bit of damping is needed to stop the balls from hunting.

    Cheers
    Roger
    I like the way you think Roger.

    I have a worn out one I'm working on Simon lol.

    Phil

  12. #57
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    Apr 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    Thanks Phil.

    Roger, i watt type mechanical speed governor is my next option if i cant make this electronic governor work.

    Im already thinking ahead incase i need to make one. Im thinking of a pulley driven governor coming off the pulley that used to drive the aircon compressor. From there its a matter of scaling the weights, spring and a linkage to the carby.

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    If you want the governor parts from a B&S or Kohler engine let me know and I will post them to you.

    You would have to make a case with a drive shaft and run the gov at half engine speed.

    cheers, shed

  13. #58
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    Im hearing you roger!

    Im hoping not to need a mechanical governor as ive already spent some money on an electronic engine speed governor.

    Shed, thanks for the offer. I will use your offer as my backup plan if that is ok.

    Today i made the adapter plate to mate the replacement 12v motor to the smaller hydraulic pump for the log lifter. I made it out of a flywheel from an old treadmill (Ah treadmills is there anything they cant do?) and it machined very nicely. Not like that other POS. Its mostly finished but i still need to make the small coupling drive shaft. Unfortunately im working nightshift tonight so im not going to get much more done today. Hoping to have the motor and pump mated up tomorrow and maybe lifting some big ball breaking logs!

    Edit: not much to show but ill post a pic when its together.

    Cheers.

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  14. #59
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    Mar 2014
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    South of Adelaide
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    Can you post a pic of the leaking port on the valve? Is the crack around the circumference of the port or running radially away from it?

  15. #60
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    Aug 2011
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    Hi snap.

    Running radially away. Ill see if i can get a pic before if leave for work and post tonight.

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

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