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9th Aug 2017, 09:46 AM #31Member
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- Mar 2017
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If you clamp the jig in the vice and release it slightly you will be able to index the pipe then lock it up again. A poor mans collet so to speak
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9th Aug 2017, 09:48 AM #32
how do i drill holes in a pipe without a starting bush to drill the holes in said pipe to use as a bush?
not trying to be funny
Centre punch the first 2.
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9th Aug 2017, 09:49 AM #33Member
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- Mar 2017
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- wollondilly nsw
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Centre punch the first 2.
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9th Aug 2017, 09:50 AM #34Member
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You can also grind/file a flat on the bush where you want to drill your holes but I would still centre pop as well. Costs nothing and saves time and drills
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9th Aug 2017, 11:24 AM #35
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9th Aug 2017, 04:04 PM #36Golden Member
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- Oct 2008
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- Cairns, Q
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You show a vise sitting on the mill table in the photos in your other thread, which you have referred to as a mill. It is a compound or two way or cross vise - all names for this type of vise.
//metalworkforums.com/f65/t2009...er-drill-press
Frank
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10th Aug 2017, 07:14 AM #37
that's true I didn't think of that as a vise
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11th Aug 2017, 10:41 AM #38
ok that was too easy and I discovered a magnet sticks to the pipe so if its stainless steel its ferritic stainless steel.
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24th Aug 2017, 10:11 PM #39
1/16" hole is too small. This will produce a very small flame. Consider 3/32" or 1/8". Drill a few holes in a sample piece of pipe and test the result. Use a smaller drill first and increase the hole size (as required) to suit. Be careful. You may need to change the jet size to achieve your preferred flame. You will need to adjust the aerator to obtain the best looking flame. My recommendation is, try for a flame length of about 1" and adjust the aerator to eliminate any yellow tips. BTW, jet sizes for LP gas are MUCH smaller than "mains" gas.
Clean out the burrs from the inside of the holes, this can influence the gas flow through the holes.Kind Regards
Peter
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26th Aug 2017, 12:16 AM #40Most Valued Member
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- May 2011
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- Murray Bridge S Aust.
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I used to make a similar component for an air conditioning/heating company. I ended up getting a toolmaker to grind down the ends of centre drills to 1/16", as drilling the stainless was getting expensive on jobber drill bits.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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26th Aug 2017, 09:06 AM #41
I have made burner jets using .9mm mig welding contact tips.
If you need to play with jet sizing different diameter contact tips are available in .6mm, .8mm, .9mm and 1.2mm to suit wire sizing, then available as singles from a weld supply shop.
From memory the outer diameter thread was M6. Some contact tips are threaded ,others have a cam shape to fit.
The burner venturi was adjustable by means of a round plate with a central 10mm thread.It screwed up on a 10mm thread tube in which the mig tip was threaded and the assembly projected into the burner.
The burner tubes were not drilled but slotted with a thin blade angle grinder cutter.
The pipe was about 32 od and cuts were about 50mm apart and for about 25mm arc across the pipe.
We had only black pipe but it was only for a single use for a burners on a spit for 21st birthday party so longevity did not matter.
Hope this helps
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27th Aug 2017, 02:19 PM #42Banned
- Join Date
- Feb 2015
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- Oz
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- 73
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- 459
Here are a couple of burners I made for bush showers. They were mad e from 20 or 22mm round tube I bent in about a 4-5" circle, added a straight piece for the inlet and drilled a hole the the straight section into the circular burner. The holes on the gray burner are around 3mm from memory and are larger than the holes in the the black burner and consequently heated the shower water quite a bit faster. I still have the black burner which I use when we bush camp in the Penguin. The bigger the holes the quicker they heat - up to a point... If it's of any use I can measure the holes.
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30th Aug 2017, 08:11 AM #43
I pulled one of the old brunner's today. They don't appear to be the ones I remember. The ones I remember had tiny can opener type holes, this one has actual holes.
I put a 1/16 bit in the hole and i looks like a match
hole.jpg
i suppose the next step before testing is to make the venturi
venturi.jpg
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30th Aug 2017, 10:54 AM #44
I have never seen mesh covering the air intake holes. All the ones I have seen are just open. The mesh would reduce the air flow and slowly block up. I am also used to seeing the air holes further up the tube leaving an uncut section on the end.
The only mesh I need is to cover the air holes in the BBQ body to keep the rodents out. Mine is homemade from a heavy wall 44. I fitted 4 cast iron burners which where the biggest cost by far. That was over 20yrs ago. I need to make a stainless steel grill section as the mild steel one keeps going rusty.
Dean
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30th Aug 2017, 11:48 AM #45
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