Needs Pictures: 0
Results 16 to 30 of 48
-
7th Aug 2017, 06:37 PM #16
There not really holes more like can opener punctures. It's hard to say. The page that talked about 1/16" is on the PC in the bedroom and my wife is sleeping in there so I won't be able to link back to that page
This other site says 1.33mm hole
https://support.thegrillfather.com/h...-Drilling-Tips
1.33 millimeters = 0.0524 inch
-
7th Aug 2017, 07:18 PM #17
Not for a 1/16" hole. 2900rpm or so seems about right. Probably better to go down in speed to 2180. These speeds are maximum recommended, but 3070 is only slightly faster so it may work too. You can go slower without any trouble usually. I will take a bit longer. Be careful of work hardening stainless steel. Do some tests on scrap first if you can. Don't push a drill bit if it seems blunt. Stop immediately. If you work harden the metal you will need a carbide drill to finish.
Holding it steady would be a good idea. Even clamp a bit of wood to the table so the tube can be held against it.
This tube should be low pressure only so hole sizes are not critical. The cast iron equivalent in my BBQ has 20 - 25 approx 3mm holes each side.
Dean
-
7th Aug 2017, 07:22 PM #18Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2007
- Location
- melbourne australia
- Posts
- 3,228
20GT,
I'm pretty sure the website you linked is referring to the size of the hole (single) in the injector, rather than the holes in the burner tube.
-
7th Aug 2017, 08:43 PM #19
-
8th Aug 2017, 03:35 PM #20
20GT
I don,t think those burners shown in your photos can be stainless steel. The inside of the tubes are well rusted. While you can sometimes see 304 with a rust stain on it, there is never any pitting or corrosion to the extent shown in the photo.
This will be worse once you subject the burners to a flame. Trust me, with the intermittent nature of the heat / cool cycle , those puppies rust in no time.
Or have I got it wrong and those pieces are just plain steel practice units?
Grahame
-
8th Aug 2017, 06:23 PM #21
Their not burners yet. It was a 5 foot piece from a conveyer system on a palletizer machine. The bad ones get replaced every year. It could have been on there for 9 years.
I just think it's extremely dirty with signs of surface discolouration from long periods of neglect,. I never actually cleaned it, I probably should have when it was one whole piece.
-
9th Aug 2017, 08:30 AM #22
How do I properly line up X and Y before bolting them down so that they are completely straight?
mil.jpg
A. something flat attachable to the pipe to stop it from rolling out of line while moving it forward
B. some form of table
C. 48 1/4 inch slats of wood for spacing
visegrip C clamp holding the pipe while drilling
-
9th Aug 2017, 08:47 AM #23Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2017
- Location
- wollondilly nsw
- Posts
- 62
You are going to need to centre punch the location before drilling as the drill will run off unless you make a drill jig as described above. Typically you can clamp thr pipe in a vee block but if you dont have one i have made them by welding 2 pieces of angle point to point so you end up with a x shape. For the application, i would centre punch and clamp it in the vice and move the vice along then index.
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
-
9th Aug 2017, 09:35 AM #24
so the drill bit is going to run even though it's on a drill press?
If that's the case yesterday I drilled some tile with a hand drill that kept running, so i put 2 strips of masking tape over the spot and remarked it. The hole in the making tape was enough to stop the drill from running and I was able to drill the spot I wanted.
I don't have a vise that's why I was making this set up.
-
9th Aug 2017, 09:37 AM #25Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2017
- Location
- wollondilly nsw
- Posts
- 62
Was the tile flat or curved? Small drills will flex easily. Can try the tape but a centre pop is more definitive
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
-
9th Aug 2017, 09:40 AM #26
-
9th Aug 2017, 09:41 AM #27Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2017
- Location
- wollondilly nsw
- Posts
- 62
As per my original post.
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
-
9th Aug 2017, 09:41 AM #28
ah it was flat, the curve might not do as well how do i make a drill jig? it will guide the bit??
-
9th Aug 2017, 09:43 AM #29Make a bush to go over the burner pipe. Drill 2 holes straight through the bush at the spacing you want the holes in the burner. Have 2 drill bits the desired size. One will be a locating pin the other will drill the hole. Cut slice into bush so you can clamp it on tube. Slide bush on tube and clamp it in place. Drill first sets of holes. Release, index to next hole and insert location drill upside down. Clamp. Drill new holes. Rinse repeat.
-
9th Aug 2017, 09:43 AM #30Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2017
- Location
- wollondilly nsw
- Posts
- 62
Yep. A piece of pipe that fits over the one you are wanting to drill. Put 2 holes in the jig at correct spacing. 2 drill bits. One to locate and one to drill.
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Similar Threads
-
Is Arc welder good for window/ door/ gate grill DIY project?
By pro in forum WELDINGReplies: 15Last Post: 28th Oct 2016, 11:19 AM -
Creating a VIN
By seanjfitz in forum TRAILERS & OTHER FABRICATED STUFFReplies: 6Last Post: 6th Sep 2015, 08:50 PM -
A novel way of creating change gears
By Michael G in forum METALWORK GENERALReplies: 7Last Post: 25th Jul 2013, 09:41 PM -
New grill / smoker
By ciscokid in forum TRAILERS & OTHER FABRICATED STUFFReplies: 7Last Post: 16th Feb 2009, 12:03 PM