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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

    Default Repco T&C Grinder

    I picked up this little Repco grinder a few months back, it had a bit of vibration when I ran it so I dressed the wheel and it was still the same.
    I took the grinding wheel off and measured the run out on the 3" long arbor with a DTI, .0096"
    I then took the arbor off and checked the grinder shaft, 0025", not so bad but annoying all the same.
    At first I thought it was damaged by some numbnut bashing the arbors off with a hammer as no tool for removing the arbors from the tapered spindle was in the bits box, further inspection revealed that the bolt hole in the spindle is drilled and tapped on a slight angle and when the longer bolt used for the longer arbor is screwed in and the shaft turned the bolt head scribes a 1/2 circle in the air.
    The bolt was pulling the long arbor on an angle, the shorter arbor seemed to go on better an had the same run out as the shaft.
    I left it for a few weeks to think about. I had a TPG that I thought would do the trick but I had no wheel for it nor could I find one, it has a 12mm dia shaft.
    I ended up getting a wheel with a 20mm hole and I made a flanged bush for it and a new 10 x 1.5 L/H nut.
    Dressed the wheel by mounting the dresser on the bottom of the spindle housing.
    Colored the shaft with blue texta and touched it until the blue disappeared, about .003"
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    Healesville
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    2,129

    Default

    I needed more arbors, I made 2 L/H and 2 R/H and a nut for the long arbor. The long arbor has a R/H thread and never should have been mounted on the LHS. There's a new puller, a pin spanner was there but I needed something for undoing the nut when using cup wheels. And for tight nuts needed something for holding arbors in the vice.
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

    Default

    It had 1/2 a turn freeplay on the Y, both the screw and the nuts were badly worn so i made new ones, I didn't like the way the backlash nut was held so I made a retainng cap for it, still need to make a pin spanner for the backlash nut.

    Here is a very short clip cutting the thread https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9zHt3i7wDus I added that coz I know you all like vidz

    cheers, shed

    ps, 3/4" x 10 TPI ACME
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

    Default Pusher/Puller thingo

    G/day all, here is a sneak peek at a tool that I am making.

    The last owner of this machine didn't have this tool as he had been belting the chucks out of the powered workhead with a drift, surprisingly the spindle seems to to be in good nick.

    The idea is to expand the end of the tool tightly in the spindle, holding one of the knurled flange's and turning the other will screw and pull a tube with a tapered end into the taper in the slotted tube.

    I measured an ER40 collet roughly with a protractor and got 12 and a half deg so that is what I cut the taper to.

    To complete this I need to make the internal tapered tube and also two shafts that can be screwed into this tube.
    One of the shafts will be used to push the chucks off the spindle taper and the other shaft will be for operating the collets.

    Material is 4140.

    cheers, shed
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

    Default

    G/day all, here is the rest of the parts.

    The tube with the tapered end slides into the tool body first and is spun in on the thread until the taper just touches the tapered fingers.
    If a chuck needs to be removed then the do dar with the shinny brass bit is screwed into the tapered tube and the whole shebang is inserted into spindle bore, turn the knurled knob (at left in picture) in a clockwise direction and nip up with the C spanners, this pulls the tapered tube in and forces the fingers to expand firmly onto the spindle bore.
    Turn the hex and push the chuck out, no bashing and the set up of the work head should stay exactly where it was set up while changing chucks or collets

    You might have seen the new shinny knurled bit, it just slides on and is a spacer ring to set the distance required when using the collet drawbar.

    To use the collets remove the chuck pusher and screw the collet drawbar all the way in, stick the whole shebang back in the hole and tighten as before, now a collet can be screwed in from the other end until it just touches the taper in the spindle.
    The thread on the end of the drawbar is 1/2 UNF and the thread on the collet is 2mm pitch, turn the hex in a clockwise direction to tighten the collet and by turning anti-clockwise it will push/release the collet out of the tapper......NO BASHING

    While I was at it I knocked up a drawbar so I can use these 3 mt collets in the horizontal mill.

    You know....... I think that I would rather self flagellate or bash my fingers with a hammer or maybe even commit self immolation than cut those internal Buttress threads.......

    cheers, shed
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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Riddells Creek, Vic.
    Posts
    831

    Default

    Very nice work on all of those bits and pieces.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
    Posts
    6,458

    Default

    Extremely neat Shed!

    I do like the idea of being able to gently release an arbor from a bore without the use of a drift. Hercus included a threaded nose on their little No.O mill's dividing head 3M spindle, facilitating the extraction of some arbors. Strangely, the No.1 tool and cutter grinder's workhead spindle had a threaded nose but the threaded nose was deleted when the design of the workhead was later revised. I have the revised version. An extractor along the lines of yours would be a worthwhile project, well worth the effort to ensure that the head/s stay put.

    Thank you.

    Bob.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

    Default

    Thanks for the compliments Techo and Bob, and others for the likes ect.

    Yes Bob is was a good little project but not appreciated by all, I showed it to my mrs and she said " that's nice" and then started waffling about the clothes line and something about Camellias.

    If there is anything more you want to know about this let me know.

    cheers, shed

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Far West Wimmera
    Age
    63
    Posts
    4,049

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    Thanks for the compliments Techo and Bob, and others for the likes ect.

    Yes Bob is was a good little project but not appreciated by all, I showed it to my mrs and she said " that's nice" and then started waffling about the clothes line and something about Camellias.

    If there is anything more you want to know about this let me know.

    cheers, shed
    What colour are the camellias?

    Dean

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    When she said " that's nice", did she say it like Mrs Brown does? That's how my other half usually say's it to me!!!
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Lower Lakes SA
    Age
    58
    Posts
    2,607

    Default

    Very tidy work there Shed. Would you mind telling me about your process for the arbors? Did you turn them all in one setting or flip them? I need to make some too. My spindle has male threads but otherwise they're quite similar. I have a procedure in mind but wonder if I'm over-complicating it.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan View Post
    Very tidy work there Shed. Would you mind telling me about your process for the arbors? Did you turn them all in one setting or flip them? I need to make some too. My spindle has male threads but otherwise they're quite similar. I have a procedure in mind but wonder if I'm over-complicating it.
    G/day Bryan, l made a lot of swarf making those arbours I cut them out of 65mm 4140 as that was the closest that l had to get the 52mm OD.
    I cut the od then the 1 1/4" wheel mount dia. then the wheel thread, then put a drill through and bored nearly to the small diameter of the taper, bored for the puller and cut a small relief at the back of that bore for the end of the puller to sit flush against, then l cheated cutting the puller thread but don't tell anyone, ok...
    l think it was a 12 tpi but because it was short in length and i was using a metric leadscrew lathe l cut a 1.25mm pitch and cut it from the back of the bore with the lathe in reverse. I trepanned the wheel relief in the flange with a parting tool.
    Parted it off then did the same for the others.
    To set up to cut the tapered bores i used a 10th dti to centre the arbour and as i only had about 12mm to grip on i also used the 10th dti on the flange where it had been parted off and used a small copper hammer to true the flange as even tho the chuck is pretty new it is not accurate enough (for me) to just push the flange against the jaws, tightened the chuck and rechecked/adjusted the run out, cut the counter bore and then cut and polished the taper.

    I had set up one of the original arbours in the chuck and I used the little starrett back plunger to adjust the topslide, here is a pic (below) of the set up on a differant job, after i cut the first taper i polished it with wd40 and 400 wet n dry, then checked it on the grinder shaft with blue, i set an indicator onto the side of the topslide and gave it about a 002" movement one way and did another very light cut and polished and checked it again and good to go. Then i just bored and cut the tapers.

    cheers, shed

    edit.....the puller thread was 20 tpi, 25.4 / 20 = 1.27
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    Last edited by shedhappens; 16th Sep 2017 at 07:29 PM. Reason: memory & maths

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Lower Lakes SA
    Age
    58
    Posts
    2,607

    Default

    Thanks a lot for the details. I'm trying to avoid the whole truing-in-two-planes-at-once thing because it's driven me nuts in the past. I have an idea that might solve the problem. Rather than waffle on here I might try it and post the results in a new thread.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

    Default Cylinder

    About time that I added a bit more to this thread.
    Here is a cylinder that I have made for this grinder, I couldn't find tube the size that I required so I bored out a 400mm length of 4140.
    I explained how I cut the threads on the chrome rod here //metalworkforums.com/f65/t2010...ing+chrome+rod
    I'm probably not happy about the mounting, I just couldn't fit a clevis type of mounting in there as the bearing surfaces would have been to narrow. the mounting really needs to be in the centreline of the cylinder, if this looks like it will wear the front rod bush prematurely then I will make a mounting for the front of the cylinder

    If it leaks when I fire up the pump at least I will know the pump is working
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  15. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

    Default pump

    I dunno if this pump is going to work, I changed it from closed loop to open loop.
    I wanted a variable flow pump so that I could adjust feed speeds, this is a hydro trans off a Murray ride on mower.
    I won't need much flow or pressure and the pump is running at its lowest recommended RPM so I'm hoping it doesn't cavitate.
    I have removed the motor and directed the oil flow out where the output shaft would normally be.
    I have blocked the oil gallery that would normally reverse the motor and drilled some holes that will now be the inlet oil holes for the pump and removed and blocked the ball valves.
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