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Thread: Toggle Clamps.
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1st Jul 2017, 09:18 PM #16
Hi Guys,
First the weather A little rain overnight, but I woke up this morning to bright sunshine, with a few fluffy clouds overhead. It won't last though, you can see the cloud bank approaching from the west.
Now onto the Toggle Clamp.
I mentioned that I had re-drawn the drawing to use the radius centres as the reference points. This was so I could make a simple jig that I could use to turn the smaller radius using the lathe. It also meant that I could machine all four pieces at one go and to prevent balance issues machine them as pairs. To this end I used a square piece of hard PVC 1/2" inch thick.
29-06-2017-012.jpg 29-06-2017-013.jpg 29-06-2017-016.jpg 29-06-2017-017.JPG
I marked out the centre of the piece of PVC, then scribed a circle 39 mm radius and then another circle inside that one to match the 33 mm roller shaft centres. I marked it with a red ink marker so that I could see it. I then drilled a hole in the centre of it 5 mm diameter and threaded it M6. At this point I placed it on a mandrel held in the lathe three jaw chuck and then turned it down As you can see there is a small flat on one edge. This happened because the PVC wasn't quite a square. However this was also convenient because I used it to identify jaw one of the chuck. If I had to remove the work, I could put it back in exactly the same position.
After turning it down I marked and drilled a hole 5 mm diameter, centered on the scribed line. I threaded this hole M6 also. I measured across and marked three other hole positions to match the outermost two holes in the toggle clamp side plates. These were also drilled 5 mm and threaded M6.
29-06-2017-019.JPG 29-06-2017-021.JPG 29-06-2017-020.JPG
I did check to make sure that the holes on all four side plates matched up before I paired them up and using M6 cap screws fastened them to the PVC jig plate. I used 6mm diameter dowel pins to check. I also de-burred all the holes on both sides of all the plates before hand, just to make sure that there was nothing to cause them to not lay flat against each other. As you can see from the pictures.
29-06-2017-015.JPG 29-06-2017-023.JPG 29-06-2017-022.jpg
At this point I fastened a pair of side plates to the jig at opposite sides of the centre. This ensures that the whole thing is balanced and wont vibrate when being turned to size. One thing that I will point out is that the plates will get quite hot whilst being turned, so care has to be taken that things don't get hot enough to melt the PVC. A sharp HSS tool and small cuts are needed because of the interrupted cut. Try and take a big cut and there is a danger that the lathe will stall. I keep the belt a little loose when doing things like this, at least it prevents any damage.
29-06-2017-024.JPG
I stopped at this point. I felt that the work was getting hotter than I was comfortable with and I didn't want anything coming loose on me.
Thanks for looking and all the likes
More to come, but it will be after the weekend, visiting youngest Granddaughter.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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2nd Jul 2017, 12:43 AM #17.
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
- Location
- Perth WA
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 6,458
Nice work BJ.
Is that chuck attached to a Super 7 ?
BT
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3rd Jul 2017, 11:56 PM #18
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15th Jul 2017, 12:25 AM #19
Hi Guys,
I've managed to get a little more done on the toggle clamps.
14-07-2017-001.jpg 14-07-2017-002.jpg
As you can see I have finished both of the curved edges. I was going to mill the small radius on the ends but decided that it would be quicker to file them round. I also decided to change the construction a little. I made four pins from 7.5 mm round rod and turned the ends to be a good fit in the side plates. By doing this it meant that by setting the length of the thick part I could determine the spacing between the side plates, the intention is to locktite them in and if necessary TIG the ends . I also turned a couple of rollers from 13 mm red bronze rod, drilled them M6 and parted off to length. I still have four 6 mm spindles to cut to support the rollers and the two large pivots for the middle.
PS. If I were going to do this again to make the side plates, then I would use the lathe faceplate. Turning the inside radius of the curve is right up against the maximum diameter you can cut on the Myford. Bear in mind that the side plate is 26 mm from the inside to the outside. The other option would have been to use the mill and rotary table.
More to follow.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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16th Jul 2017, 03:13 AM #20
Home run !
Hi Guys,
I've gotten some more done on these toggle clamps and apart from a pivot pin and a pair of rollers they are finished.
15-07-2017-008.JPG 15-07-2017-002.jpg 15-07-2017-010.JPG 15-07-2017-001.JPG
The pictures above show one of the side plates along with two spacers and two roller pivot pins. The roller pivot pins were just parted off to length from 6 mm drill rod with the ends chamfered with a file whilst still in the lathe chuck. The third picture shows the washer that goes under the securing nut, and does double duty as a spacer between the side plates preventing the pivot pin from moving sideways and providing a flat surface for the nut to tighten onto. These were made from black bar turned to size, drilled and parted off. They are 6 mm thick. The fourth picture is the assembled clamp minus the red bronze rollers and before the pivot pin is drilled. More about that later.
15-07-2017-015.jpg 15-07-2017-016.JPG 15-07-2017-014.jpg 15-07-2017-009.jpg 15-07-2017-007.jpg 15-07-2017-006.JPG
The first three pictures above show the completed clamp on its M8 threaded stud. The last three are views of various stages of assembly.
15-07-2017-003.JPG 15-07-2017-011.JPG 15-07-2017-012.JPG 15-07-2017-013.jpg
Now I said above that I would say more about the pivot pin ! It is a piece of black bar turned to size and parted off to a length of 30 mm. I polished it with fine emery cloth (300 grit) in the lathe before parting. I also used a short piece of the same emery cloth wrapped on the end of a short length of 15 mm diameter wooden dowel, held in a saw cut to polish the inside of the pivot holes in the side plates. I found that the drilled surface was sufficiently rough to cause the pivot pin to bind in the hole. A drop of oil helps as well.
Next was setting up to drill the M8 hole through the centre of the pivot pin. I marked the centre line from each end and set it up in a drill vice. Using a centre drill and a steel rule I found the centre line of the pivot pin and then drilled it. After swapping the centre drill for an 8 mm drill I drilled right through. Using a Weldon countersink I de-burred the top of the hole then turned it over. Putting the 8 mm drill back in the chuck I squared up the pivot pin and de-burred the other side. A quick rub with emery cloth removed any remaining burrs.
Right Guys, that's it for this project.
Thanks:Best Regards:
Baron J.
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16th Jul 2017, 10:22 AM #21.
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
- Location
- Perth WA
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 6,458
Very nicely executed BJ and wonderfully documented. Thank you.
Bob.
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16th Jul 2017, 10:14 PM #22Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Location
- Murray Bridge S Aust.
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 5,942
Thanks for the excellent WIP report Baron. Looking forward to seeing the next project.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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20th Jul 2017, 07:17 AM #23Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2011
- Location
- Ballarat
- Age
- 65
- Posts
- 3,103
Great job Baron and great documentation, many thanks.
Phil
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22nd Jul 2017, 11:22 AM #24Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2012
- Location
- Healesville
- Posts
- 2,129
Very nice and practical job Baron, it was particularly smart and interesting to see the use of the PVC for the jig, to be honest I would have never even contemplated using PVC, I rarely have ever machined it I suppose.
cheers, shed
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28th Dec 2021, 12:22 PM #25
Hi Benizel,
Welcome to the MetalWork forums,
Why not tell us about your self and your metalwork interests and tools ,equipment you have.
There's an ideal place at the Welcome Wagon forum - https://metalworkforums.com/f300
There's a great bunch of people here who are experienced helpful and supportive to other members.
To look through what is available here in the forums.
do this: To navigate our Forums click on the FORUM box at the LH top of the page.
A drop down menu will appear and click on FORUM HOME which will give you a scroll down page with all of our various sub forums and other helpful things on it- about 30 headings
Our forum rules, the TOU's are on top and the rest is the sub Forums and help pages that make up our forum package.Please make sure to read through them.
Anything else you need to know,please PM me and I will help if I possibly can.
Also if you do furniture we have a sister woodworkers Forum- Theres a a clickable box at top centerpage - Shortcuts to: WOODWORK FORUMS
Welcome aboard
Grahame
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