Page 8 of 10 FirstFirst ... 345678910 LastLast
Results 106 to 120 of 150
  1. #106
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    470

    Default

    Nice work you have been doing on your mill sir, just been going threw your thread your mill is nearly the same as my rambaudi mill in some ways, as for cleaning the suds tank i use caustic soda don't make it to strong as it will remove the paint as well. I found that applying body filler to the old filler that i sanded won't stick you need to sand all the filler off back to bare metal, it's a big job so i just sanded most of the mill back to metal and apply two coats primer or three and two final coats.

  2. #107
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

    Default

    Hi Turbo, thanks for the encouragement and kind words. I'm actually really enjoying playing with this mill. I still have a bit to do on it but much of what needs doing will not stop me from using it for projects. Once I have the head sorted out I will start on the electrics and the VFD conversion.

    My current mill uses standard tapered roller bearings and does not have auto feed so I'm excited to see the finish I get from boring with this mill, that's just one example where this new to me mill will be a big improvement over my gear head mill. Rigidity is another factor although I am not very heavy handed with my metal removal rates in any case. Perhaps I can bump that up a bit now. Actually, in another thread regarding endmill life, it was suggested that I am not heavy enough with my cuts which may reduce tool life but this has been a necessity due to lack of rigidty. Maybe I can improve there as well.

    I think some people have misunderstood me wrt gear head mills. I certainly can't bag them, mine has given me much pleasure over the last 7 years. I learnt alot from it, including working within it's capabilities, as you must with every machine.

    Anyway, I digress. As mentioned above, the mill will be a work in progess long after I put it into use. The ways will need scraping. I know a bit about scraping but hand scraping a flat surface on a bench is much easier than scraping a machine ways flat and in the correct plane in reference to another datum. That will be another big job for me. I was thinking the knee was actually pretty good and that only the saddle and table will need scraping however, I measured the perpendicularity of the knee travel WRT the table and it too will need doing since it must be drooping forward.

    Anyway. Little bits at a time.

    Edit: when I had the head totally stripping to a bare casting, I had the oppotunity to sand it back to bare metal and re-fill it with filler and re-paint but that sounded like alot of work for very little gain, it's never going to be a show piece so I decided a Simon (war) finish was appropriate.

    Cheers,

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  3. #108
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    470

    Default

    Your welcome, i had a chinese gear head mill and metal lathe for a while, they both perform well but know i have three phase power i have move up to the old classic three phase machiney which i absolutely love. You will love your pacific mill once it is up and running, i can not wait when i finish off my mill.

  4. #109
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

    Default

    You may or may not remember the broken upper tilter. Its a small part and available from Lagun for $185.

    So today i decided to attempt to make it out of 3 small ball bearings attached with some drill rod.

    So i managed to find some 6mm ball bearings (i never throw old bearings out. They are a great source for parts requiring steel balls)

    and proceeded to anneal them. First one much easier than expected. I put if in an er collet in the lathe and drilled through. They are certainly not soft but are drillable with HSS. I then went to the next one. Do you think i could repeat my efforts from the first?! No!

    Tried several times at tempering to cherry red but still no luck. A google search indicates that being so small, they maybe cooling too quickly.

    Time to try another approach. Grabbed a sold lump of steel and drilled 4 holes 20mm deep, dropped the balls inside and then slid if into the wood heater. Ill get them out in the morning. See how we go.....

    2nd pic is my first and only success.tapatalk_1529135919994.jpeg

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  5. #110
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

    Default

    Well overnight i managed to anneal some more ball bearings. It does appear that my first efforts were unsuccessful due to the rapid air cooling being such a small part.

    I drilled holes in block of steel and nested them inside and then on the floor of the wood heater. I then cranked it up. The house got to 27 degrees and i put my wife in a heat coma! All in the name of science i told her!

    I then cut down the shank of an old 3.5mm drill and used this to join them.

    The two outside balls measured 13mm apart at centres although this maybe out by few thou as i had to roughly measure on the machine. The centre ball is in the centre. To keep the balls seated properly before fixing with locktite, i centre drilled the block of steel with the same spacings to use as a nest to set the correct separation of the balls while the locktite goes off


    Time will tell if locktite will do the job.

    Edit: I nearly forgot. Special thanks goes to Baron J. for his idea of annealing and drilling ball bearings. Thanks Baron!

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  6. #111
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
    Age
    72
    Posts
    3,102

    Default

    Are you going to harden and temper them again, Simon?
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  7. #112
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

    Default

    No dammit. I knew someone would ask me that and i know i probably should have.

    I think ill take it apart and harden and temper it otherwise the balls will squash flat over time.

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  8. #113
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    G,morning Simon,

    I recall that you said that you locktited the balls in place, heat will break that bond. I would heat the whole lot up, avoiding allowing the balls to move and then quench the whole lot in one go. You might find that after cooling they are not only hard but you may not be able to shift the balls afterwards !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  9. #114
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

    Default

    Yea. I used locktite as the bonding method so i was thinking i would separate the 4 parts, heat, quench, temper and then re-join with locktite. But you may be right Baron. Doing it in-situ may create a mechanical bond negating the need for locktite.


    Ill do it Tomorrow and report back.

    Simon


    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  10. #115
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

    Default

    Ok. So i removed the part and heat treated it. The balls did not change dimension and were still a sliding fit after quenching and tempering.

    I tempered to straw yellow colour to the best of my ability although being a very small part heated with a flame, it was very difficult to achieve uniformity in heat.

    I need to build a small heat treatment oven!

    I really dont thinks its that critical as they will not be shocked. I probably could have left them glass hard without any consequence. Anyway, im calling it done.



    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  11. #116
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

    Default

    Nice job Simon, little fiddly things like that can be a pain.

    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    Ok.
    I need to build a small heat treatment oven!
    Simon
    This is something you might consider
    1000W Portable Induction Heater

  12. #117
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Simon, Guys,

    I did wonder about how much clearance you had between the hole in the ball and shaft, last night. I don't think that leaving them hard will make any difference to how much they will wear, its not a highly stressed part anyway. Back to the locktite then.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  13. #118
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

    Default

    Thanks shed. Thats an interesting project. I've been getting interested in knife making so if i was to make an oven it would also have to heat treat knife blanks. Of course atm its merely a thought bubble...

    Baron, yes the holes in the balls were drilled with a 3.5mm drill bit and then the shank from that same drill bit was sacrificed for the shaft. So not exactly a precision fit but hey thats what loctite is for, fixing sloppy fits for hacks like me for over 50 years!

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  14. #119
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

    Default

    Made a start on the next part. I have had a lump of steel hanging around. It was used as a ridiculous base for a small fan. I used to use it when welding but since it had no shriud i got sick of working around exposed blades so used the motor some time back.

    I ssumed it was just a lump of ms but its as tough as. I ruined a brand new cheapie endmill on it in a couple of passes. My cheapie carbide endmill and carbide facemill has faired better.

    Next will be to put it in 4 jaw and turn the shoulder that locates it to the mill head and bore the hole for the shaft. Actually i will have to bush the hole given the shaft is hard and so too it seems is the bore.

    See how i go. May get that done today.

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  15. #120
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

    Default

    That lump of steel i originally intended to make the next part out of was unnecessary tough and difficult to work on. So i pulled out a lump of aluminium that i got from the scrap metal place and made a start on that.

    I did the 12mm bore and the flat that seats on the mill head in one operation to ensure proper fitment. I also took the time to fit a bronze bush since this aluminium is rather soft.

    The original part also had a couple of adjustment shims to set the bevel gear meshing distance. I will endevour to adjust the dimensions on the new part to negate the need for these.

    These first operations were done on the lathe. The rest will be finished on the mill with a RT or dividing head.

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

Page 8 of 10 FirstFirst ... 345678910 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Pacific FU 1250 Mill
    By jcatcmc in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 20th Sep 2020, 01:31 PM
  2. Pacific SSL1060A lathe manual needed
    By haemish762 in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 4th Feb 2015, 04:29 PM
  3. CVA no79 rebirth
    By welder in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 19
    Last Post: 16th Jan 2015, 10:01 PM
  4. Arboga EM825 mill vs Hercus model 0 mill?
    By neksmerj in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 23
    Last Post: 14th May 2011, 03:16 PM
  5. No. 0 Mill Serial Number and Mill at Work Photos
    By Anorak Bob in forum THE HERCUS AREA
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 30th Dec 2008, 03:31 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •