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Thread: Rebirth of The Pacific FT-2 Mill
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13th Jul 2017, 07:07 AM #46
Hi Simon,
Sorry can't help with pulley problem However drilling the bearing, I used a number 1 centre drill and a 6" inch steel rule ! It worked out Ok.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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16th Jul 2017, 06:13 PM #47Most Valued Member
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Ahh, It just occured to me what you used the rule for.... Lay it flat on top of the bearing and press down with the centre drill and align using the rule leveling as a guide?
Sounds like a simple method.
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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16th Jul 2017, 07:44 PM #48
Hi Simon,
Yes it works quite well ! See my last post in "Toggle Clamps" where I show the method in use. Ideally you would clamp the drill vice down to the table, but being lazy I just use a centre drill and the follow it with the drill for the holes size that I need. I you look really close, you can see that the hole has wandered a couple of thou to one side.
A tip with annealed bearing balls, drill a small recess in a couple of pieces of PVC or hard wood, clamp the ball in between them and mark the centre with a 60 degree point in the drill. Use the above method, then drill and tap the marked ball. I use a centre drill because it makes a dimple that you can start a drill into.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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20th Jul 2017, 06:58 AM #49Most Valued Member
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20th Jul 2017, 10:12 AM #50Most Valued Member
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Hi Phil,
No you're not missing a thing! WRT Baron's balls, they were 5/8" so a nice size to work with. If I go with the same approach to fix a part for the mill, I will need to drill 6mm balls. It's starting to get a bit small for a 3 jaw I would have thought, not that I have tried it yet. I am keen to try this method as I have a large quantity of ball bearings... I have a habit of keeping bearings that I remove just in case I need the odd ball. So suffice to say I have a ridiculous quantity of ball bearing balls.
I guess it all comes down to how big your balls are..
On another note, I have a question coming up regarding the mill. It's about the bearing thatsupoorts the top of the on the spindle just before it pokes out where the drawbar is done up. I will take some photos but the bearing that mounts on the shaft and then attaches to the motor housing is mounted is an unusual way and I am wondering if it's original or if it's a fix done by a previous owner.
Photos to come.
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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20th Jul 2017, 02:55 PM #51Most Valued Member
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So. Im working on the shaft that mates to the spindle via a knotched or castlated coupling. This coupling meshes with the spindle depending on which speed you have selected (hi or low) its also the shaft that runs the variable speed sliding pulley system. Its supported by an upper and a lower bearing. The upper bearing being a cover plate that screws to the top of the alloy cover that the motor also screws to.
My question for you experienced machine people out there is this;
The top bearing is not simply press fitted to the top of the shaft. The shaft where the bearing seats is undersized and there are 2 half shells that insert on the shaft and then the bearing fits over that. The end of the shaft allows for a circlip that sets the datum for the upper part of the bearing but as you can see in the pics, the bearing is able to located further down the shaft.
Its important thaf the bearing does not move once set on the shaft otherwise the notched coupling can jump and possibly slip causing damage.
You can see from the pics that the two half shells not nog even closely marry up when under the bearing. They also look home made although not well made. They are hard though.
Is is possible this is a workshop fix after the bearing chewed out the shaft?
I have been using an owners manual for a Lagun FTV-2 which has so far been 100% accurate for parts, bolts screws etc. But it does not show this. It shows a turned down end of the shaft and the bearing seats to the shoulder, a circlip on the end.
Your thoughts?
Simon
Sent from my SM-G900I using TapatalkGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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20th Jul 2017, 03:26 PM #52Philomath in training
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I think they are - they don't look 'professional' enough to be a factory fix. Those look like they have been hacked out with a blunt butter knife...
Not sure whether there was a problem and as a result the shaft was machined out (and sleeves added) or whether it has always been like that and the sleeves are a replacement for another set or something similar. Parts books are usually reasonably factual, so if it is not shown it is probably a bodge.
At a place making motors where I once worked there was a circular sort of shim used that was corrugated to allow a snug bearing fit in plastic housings. (Called a 'tolerance ring'). Might be a better option?
ANtolerance.jpg
I have some if you want one (not sure on size).
Michael
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20th Jul 2017, 03:51 PM #53Most Valued Member
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Hi Simon, on the first pic, where the "Sleeves" sit it appears to be blue, is that the case? I would say that it appears that the bearing seized up on the shaft and spun.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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20th Jul 2017, 05:08 PM #54Most Valued Member
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Hi Michael & Kryn,
Michael, I suspect you are correct. The shaft diameter where the split bush and bearing sits is not a "standard" diameter. It's not a nice round number. I forget what it is but it was something like 26.65mm or similar. I remember taking the reading and it did not strike me as a "standard" dimension. I will have to re-measure and get back to you on a more precise reading. One of the reasons why I ask is because if there is no real reason behind this particular setup, I am inclined to machine down that lip at the end and fit another sleave and then machine to accept the original bearing including a shoulder and a circlip groove and call it done.
I like the idea of a tollerance ring! That's my kind of thingy.
Kryn,
That may have been the case in the past but it certainly has not worn 2mm or so which is the thickness of the two shell halfs. The shaft diameter is also fairly constant from one end to the other so whoever has caused it, it has been done deliberately. Also the bearing seems to be in good nic, practically new. This is another strange twist; when I bought this mill, the owner told me that the head needed a major rebuild including the replacement of all the bearings. Funny thing is, all the bearings look new albeit dusty. I still think that someone has gone to repair the mill thinking it only needed new bearings and then ran into trouble or lost interest when they found a few other issues along the way. Not sure...
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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20th Jul 2017, 05:37 PM #55Member
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Simon
I have just come across this thread and have the same machine.
Good to see I'm not Robinson Crusoe. 😀
I have been using mine for a few years and have been pretty happy with it. Im away from home during the weeks but generally home on weekends and can take pics if required if it helps through various stages. Only issue i gave with mine is the quill downfeed is missing a cap and some items to engage it. Never really worried about it as most was done manually. I could have used the function a few weeks ago tho..
Following with interest
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
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20th Jul 2017, 07:30 PM #56
Hi Phil,
I've found that trying to drill small balls, ie 6mm, in the three jaw causes the jaws to mark the ball, it is surprising how soft the bearing ball becomes after annealing. I suppose the right way would be to turn an aluminium soft holder to hold the ball and then grip that in the lathe chuck.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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20th Jul 2017, 07:43 PM #57
Hi Simon, Guys,
I've seen that trick done before when the right size bearing race wasn't available at the time. It is in my opinion a horrible bodge. A tolerance ring is the right thing to use there, but if you have more than a millimetre or so of play then yes, make a press fit collar and turn it down to suit a new bearing. Which in the picture looks as if it has been bashed and bruised somewhat. Its not an expensive bearing anyway ! Some washing machines use that one on the drum spindle.
Not worth spoiling the job for a hapenny worthBest Regards:
Baron J.
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20th Jul 2017, 08:49 PM #58Most Valued Member
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Hi Baron. Its a standard bearing because it supports the pulley and nothing else. The spindle bearings which are a precision set are further down.
I have had another look at the shaft, and i can report tha t it is in fact not machined parallel. It has a waist while the top and bottom are thicker. Thicker by some tenths of a mm so quite significant. However its symmetrical top and bottom so it must be a deliberate profile as opposed to being caused by wear. Now im really confused.
Hi mick. Im keen for any help you can offer as a fellow Ff-2 owner although it would require you to partially dismantle your machine which is a bit of an ask.
Im thinking i will turn down the end and make a sleeve unless anyone can give me a good reason why i shouldnt....
Simon
Sent from my SM-G900I using TapatalkGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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20th Jul 2017, 09:11 PM #59Member
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Is there enough meat to reduce the end and fit the circlip? From the pic it appears the circlip is on the current diameter.
If you can put a smaller circlip in, can you get a bearing with appropriate bore and od to avoid the sleeves altogether?
Sent from my SM-T355Y using Tapatalk
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20th Jul 2017, 09:30 PM #60Most Valued Member
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Hi Mick, No I don't think that will work. Where the circlip seats is actually a shoulder, not a groove and when the bearing is pressed in, the inner race of the bearing forms the other side of the groove. It's really weird. I'm certainly not an experienced machine rebuilder but it's nothing I have seen before.
To try an give everyone here a better idea, I have screen shotted the head from the owners manual and placed an arrow of the area and bearing in question. This may help some people...
I'm having trouble uploading. Try again later.
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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