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  1. #31
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    Aug 2011
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    Pic of the damaged downfeed clutch housing

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  2. #32
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    Oct 2011
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    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
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    59
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    Shouldn't be too hard to make another one of them (seriously).
    I guess you could take the easy way out and just braze on another ear.

    Michael

  3. #33
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    Aug 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Well as luck would have it i have discovered another broken part. The Lagun part is called Upper tilter or the same part on a Bridgeport mill is called the reverse ball lever. Its part of the mechanical disengagement of the quill feed when the quill is fed up (reverse feed). This disengages the feed when the quill goes all the way up. Its probably one of the least used features on the mill and will work ok without it. However for completness i want to fix it.

    The part is about 20mm long, has 3 balls about 6mm in diameter and joined with 4mm rod. Its tiny.

    Making it would not be impossible but a PITA. I send an email to Lagun rep in the US with a part no. and description.

    They have the part. US$185 Rebirth of The Pacific FT-2 Mill

    To their credit they even looked for a S/H part but none to be found. The equivalent Bridgeport part can be found on ebay etc. For around $25. Go figure!

    Sounds like a great excuse to grind a form tool and make my own out of some 01 drill rod.

    Cheers

    Simon


    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  4. #34
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    Aug 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Equivalent bridgeport part.


    NEW Reverse Trip Ball Lever for Bridgeport Milling Mill | eBay

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Kyabram. Vic
    Posts
    632

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    Simon,

    Nice US style freight rip off for that small part. More than the item itself. The ebay postage rates have become ridiculous.

    Another way to make is rough machine and hardened/tempered and finish ground with a formed grinding wheel.

    Ken

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Hi Simon,

    Some annealed bearing balls and silver steel ! Drill the balls and silver solder them onto the silver steel rod. Or if it isn't hardened drill the existing bits in the lathe, pin, and silver solder back together.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  7. #37
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    Aug 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Hi guys. Looks theres a few ways to takle this problem. Ken, can you heat ball bearings until they anneal and then drill them?

    Sounds easy enough.

    Meantime, the lower head is nearly back together. That has been a learning experience thats for sure.



    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  8. #38
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    Aug 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Did a little more work on the Pacific. Today I repaired the quill feed clutch handle support. The item that is missing an ear. The repair involved making a part that screws to the rear side of the existing part. The outside diameter of the barrel part of the clutch is approx. 28.3mm so I bored a piece of ms with a matching ID and an OD of 36.3mm giving a wall thickness of 4mm. I then cut a segment out of that part I made and welded the small ear.

    After I drilled and tapped the holes M3, I screwed the part on making sure the sliding clutch did not catch any burrs or protruding screws. I then milled the ends flush and drilled the final hole in the ear last.

    It's not the prettiest or most intricate work but it has brought it back into service.

    Pics to follow...

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  9. #39
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    Aug 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Pics...

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  10. #40
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    Aug 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Good morning all,

    This morning I modified my $8 glacier bush to fit the sliding half pulley for the variable speed. The factory glacier bushes have two keyways milled through each side to accomodate the plastic keys ways that transfer the power from the pully to the spindle. Needless to say my $8 glacier bush was just a plain bush and needed the slots milled in.

    I decided to tackle this using a spin indexer on the mill. The bush has a nominal ID of 40mm so I made a mandrel (is that the correct term?) with a 40.08mm one side (slightly oversize to hold the bush a bit better) and 20mm the other, allowing my largest ER32 collet to hold it in the spindexer. For better gripping, I lined the mandrel with a sheet of paper, this also helps to protect the teflon coating on the inside of the bush.

    The process was pretty straght forward but I did need to take more care than I first realised. Milling the slots in a couple of passes helped reduce the cutting loads since these spindexers are not the most rigid of things with such a large overhang. I also pilot drilled holes at each end since I only have milling cutters and not slot drills.

    On a side note, I really made me appreciate the idea behind Joe H. ER collet holders. Not only do they take up much less room ( I had to mill the keyways using the y axis to fit the clamps) but they would not doubt be easier to use, less fidly and more rigid. Anyway, I got the job done.

    After willing, it was just a matter of cleaning up with a file and test fitting the plastic keys before drifting it into the pulley cone half.

    The next part is a little more involved but still reasonably straight forward. The second half of the pulley cone is fixed (does not slide) and should be a reasonable tight fit on the shaft however, the previous operator must have continued to use the mill after the bearings were flogged and in doing so, this pulley started turning on the shaft and wearing the shaft. The pulley is now a very loose fit on the shaft.

    Both the pulley and the shaft will need to be turned down and a sleeve installed. I have a length of bronze for that job waiting. ...

    Pics in the next post...

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  11. #41
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    Aug 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Pics...

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  12. #42
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    Jun 2004
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    Kyabram. Vic
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    Simon,

    It was BaronJ who mentioned the annealing of bearing balls. I have never tried to do so. I guess heating them to the anti-magnetic stage then slowly cooling them in lime may do the trick.

    Ken

  13. #43
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    Sep 2012
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    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Hi Simon,

    It is quite a while back now, but I did the annealing thing on a 5/8" bearing ball, actually to make a ball ended handle. The chap who instructed me simply heated it up until it was just red and then put it in a coffee tin with fine white sand in it, burying the ball in the sand. It was then left until the following day. Drilling the hole in it was easy ! Clamp between two pieces of wood in the vice, drill a 5 mm hole 1/2" deep and thread M6. All that was needed after that was to polish the black coating off it. It ended up looking like it had been chrome plated. If you wanted, you could re-harden the ball by heating and quenching in oil.

    HTH.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  14. #44
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    Thanks Baron!

    I am going to give that a try. Even if just for the interest of annealing bbs.

    For my application, the most challenging part will be to centre drill a 6mm bb.

    Im thinking of mounting a 6mm er collet vertically. Centering it with the spindle and then centre drill the bb.

    Maybe i need to "touch" the bb with the SG to create a flat spot in order to drill.

    Going camping for 4 days. Ill have a think about it...

    Simon



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  15. #45
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    On another note, i did somd more work on the other half of the pulley cone. This one is static and does not move, well its not supposed to but if a situation occurs that shears the plastic keyways (such as an overload if thed spindle force) then the sliding pulley will spin and so will the static pulley.

    So anyway i turned dowb the shaft until it was parallel again and made a bush to suite. Slid the bush on and loctited it in place.

    I then bored out the pulley until it too was clean. I then machined the shaft with the bush to suite the pulley.

    This is where i made several mistakes. I incorrectly made the pulley a sliding fit. Allowing a 1 thou per inch i made it a nicd fit if it was a bearing but it needed to be a lighg press fit. Doh!

    So i decided to loctite the sleeve on.... problem solved. Ahh loctite, saving dodgy machining work for years!

    It was then that i discoved that the pulley has a roll pin that locates it to the shaft. This had sheared off which is supposed to happen. However i needed this pin location in order to set the correct pulley location on the shaft. No idea now sibce the sleeve haz obscursd the corresponding hole!

    I think ill start that again next week. Rebirth of The Pacific FT-2 Mill

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

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