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  1. #91
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    South of Adelaide
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    1,225

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    that's a Capto arbor. The are a pretty rigid connection, contacts on both the face and the taper. The arbor you have would be for modular tooling, they also use that connection in the spindle of some machining centers, mainly high end millturn machines. I think its going to be pretty useless to you the tooling is pretty expensive.

  2. #92
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

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    Thanks Neil and Snapa.

    Think you are correct and yes its pretty much useless to me unless i can modifh it to take another tool.

    Thanks for your replies.

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  3. #93
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,540

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    I still have the 40 taper QC tooling if you want QC...
    //metalworkforums.com/f223/t201105-surplus-items

    Michael

  4. #94
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

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    Thanks Michael. I will keep that in mind.

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  5. #95
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
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    4,779

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    Hi all,

    Been doing a little bit here and there on the mill. One thing that had been troubling me a bit was that fact that when I filled the oil cup (that lives on the side of the head) with oil, it took quite a lot of oil for it to finally drip through the spindle bearings and when it did, the oil was not the cleanest.

    I ignored this for some time but then when I looked at the price of replacement spindle bearings I got a little concerned. I figure the small amount of effort required to remove the spindle and clean up any crap on the bearings would be time well spent.

    So, I have taken the spindle out. It has a very similar setup to a Bridgeport and presented no problem getting it out. So the bearing setup is two precision bearings preloaded with spacers on the inner and out race and a long spacer snugged up with a nut.

    This setup means that access to these bearings for cleaning is very limited without removal. Question is, can precision bearings that are pre-fit on a shaft be removed without damage? Usually these bearings are only removed for replacement and so damage is not usually an issue.

    BTW, the bearings seem pretty good. Certainly the spindle makes a lovely noise when run.

    I post a pick from my phone...

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  6. #96
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Spindle assembly

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  7. #97
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Well against my better judgement i disassembled to spindle.

    I mostly went to plan although i did have an "oh crap" moment when the lower precision FAFNIR bearing outer race decided to part company with the inner race and shoot balls everywhere.

    I really thought id done my dash with that bearing but it turned out that they come apart pretty easily. So i took both apart to inspect the races. They look ok.

    I also took the time to inspect the iso40 taper for wear/damage.

    Also i measured the runout of the spindle and marked it. The spindle bearings have a 2um runout mark on the inner and outer race so placing the high part of the inner 180 degrees to the high spot on the spindle should reduce the overall runout from a measured 6um to hopefully 4um.



    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  8. #98
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
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    G/day simon, I have pulled the head on my mill to a zillion pieces also.
    I also wasn't going to disassemble my spindle and when I read your post above I didn't want to suggest one way or the other, as you know things can go south real quick.
    After seeing your post I have decided not to be a pussy and do my brgs also, thank you. (I think)

    cheers, shed

  9. #99
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    Aug 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Hi Shed. One thing always leads to another with me. Originally i was just going to remove the spindle and leave it complete and just flush the bearings. However once i got it out i realised that to get it truely clean so as to preserve the bearings and remove all crud, it had to be completely pulled apart.

    I have read on other forums that they flhshed them with solvent or hydraulic oil until clean but when you think how clean and cautious you need to be when installing new bearings ie white gloves etc. Its hard to think you can get them that clean again.

    Good luck. Post some pics. Im keen to see how different mills have their spindles set up.

    PS if yours goes pear shaped then im denying all responsibility!

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  10. #100
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    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Spindle assembly is now cleaned and re-assembled.

    In an effort to slip the bearings on easier i put the spindle in the freezer and put the bearings in my food hydrater set to 70 degrees.

    Ive done this before with the Gamett tapered roller bearings in the SG spindle but used the oven. I was concerned about too much heat because the bearjngs have a phenolic retainer and wasnt sure how much hsat they could take. The SG bearings i heated to about 100 dgrees and they literally fell on the shaft. However seems like 70 degrees is nof quite enough as they were still a press fit. Oh well.


    I also gave the quill a clean and inspection, making sure the wick from the cup oiler directs the oil in the right spot.

    I guess i wont really know if ive done a good job until i fire it up and listen. Im also keen to measure the runout of the taper in the spindle.

    Just waiting for some engineering felt to arrive so i can replace the dirty old felt disc that sits at the top.

    Until then the spindle stays wrapped in glad wrap.

    Simon


    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  11. #101
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    Good luck. Post some pics. Im keen to see how different mills have their spindles set up.

    PS if yours goes pear shaped then im denying all responsibility!
    It might be a little while before I get to it, amongst other little problems with it I have to work out how to make a small 12 tooth bevel gear first.

    cheers, shed

  12. #102
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    Aug 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Surely thats not impossible for someone of your capabilities?

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  13. #103
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    Apr 2012
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    Healesville
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    Surely thats not impossible for someone of your capabilities?

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Actually both the pinion and crown are RS and they dont look easy to make...........
    I am toying with the idea that if i have to cut gears why not cut some spur gears and fit an electric motor
    with a speed control, i mean why have 3 feed speeds when i can make it variable
    cheers, shed

  14. #104
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    Aug 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Hey shed there are a couple of US online stores that sell those parts and also an ebay store that sells them for the bridgeport for what i would call a reasonable price.

    If you wanted, we could possibly place a joint order and ship it through my US shipping address. That would make shipping reasonable. I just have to see if the bridgeport part is compatible.

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  15. #105
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    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
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    I was thinking what are the chances a bridgeport part would fit my mill?
    Numbers 3 & 31 look the same as mine Bridgeport Parts - Quill Housing Assembly
    But I think that while it has it's gut's spread across the workshop making the quill feed variable would be very worthwhile,
    sometimes in the past I have struggled to get good surface finish when boring small holes with thin boring bars and I
    reckon that with a variable feed it is likely possible to find the sweet spot.
    I have had a look and can't find an electric feed for a bridgeport, if you can post a link......

    cheers, shed

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