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15th Jun 2016, 11:40 AM #61Intermediate Member
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Not a bad idea Ryan;
Gave the guys at Mircomax a call, Paul was usefull and suggested that the alarm it is raising is W13 - %200 over current, and W12 - %200 over torque limit.
So with that in mind he suggested that the B grade insulation used in the 70's probably inst going to stand up to the variance in frequency.
Time to get the motor rewound i think.
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15th Jun 2016, 02:22 PM #62Senior Member
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I have no idea where you would get supplies to re-wind a motor. Doesn't look to hard though.
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15th Jun 2016, 02:56 PM #63Intermediate Member
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I was just going to have some one do it, it looks fairly simple, but if you got it wrong i can only imagine! im a bit lost in it at the moment, any motor that is in Y should be able to run of 240v in Delta, so, i might have to look closer for a short, but the ohm meter measures equal resistance across all the coils and no leak between coils or to earth. So, i have no idea why the VFD wont run it, however, not having the name plate data to work of makes it increasingly difficult.
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15th Jun 2016, 04:53 PM #64Senior Member
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When you are doing the conversion from Star to Delta at the motor connections, can you get the bridging wrong so that it won’t run or will it just result in the motor turning in the opposite direction?
I had no name plate data either to help when it came to working out the connections. So they only way I could work it out was to label each of the slots in the armature where the windings are and work out which way each of the windings ran. I think from memory I had 48 slot – ie each winding/phase uses 16 of the slots spread evenly around the armature frame. For each of the windings/phase it is further split into groups to give the number of poles that the motor has and its synchronous speed at 50Hz.
In my case my motor was ~1400 rating and this corresponds to a 4 pole motor, ie 2 north poles and 2 south poles with each pole being orientated 90 degrees around the frame .
I then sketched out how the windings looped through the frame. Remembering the right/left hand grip rules from physics/electrical theory
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flemin...ule_for_motors
if you think of north poles as slots in your armature where the winding goes into the motor assuming you are starting from and end, and then a south pole as ones where the windings come up and out from the frame you should be able to follow the path of the winding all the way around the frame from 1 end of the winding to the other.
I think I had a link a few pages back showing a vid where a bloke was winding a motor for an electric car.
[edited to add, -post #8 back on the second page of the thread]
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15th Jun 2016, 10:59 PM #65Intermediate Member
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that makes sense, obviously the first winding is then V1, U1, W1 Respectively? I have found the individual coil using continuity, so obviously they need to be in the correct order (Phased properly if you will) for the motor to run properly. With that in mind i will go and have another look, picked up some proper silicon coated wire today so i will solder the new leads on, nothing is leaking to ground, nothing is leaking between coils
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21st Jul 2016, 12:36 AM #66Senior Member
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OK, i have been looking around and it looks like i am after the "CXA" sized tool post.and with CTC being back i may have a solution!
(the other sizes are AXA, BXA and DXA with A being smallest and D largest)
QUICK CHANGE TOOLPOST SET (6PCS) - WEDGE TYPE #L137 | CTC Tools
Im looking at the 200-300 version. most things look ok i think. The part i'm not sure on is getting the tool centre height. on my lathe, from the top of the compound slide to the centre it is ~35.5mm. Assuming i have the tool holder all the way down with the 300 version and i am using 20mm tooling the lowest i would get would be measurement "A" on the tool holders of 39.1mm or +3.6mm above centre
if i subtract the dimension "B" 19.05 from "A" = 39.10 i get the thickness of the bottom ledge of the tool holder = 20.05mm. If i mill this down by the 3.6mm i need to get to centre height i'm still at 16.45mm which is greater than the same measurement for the next model down ("A" 28.57mm - "B" 15.87mm = 12.7mm for reference).
The next model down will easily do it, but then its smaller all over and is unlikely to clear the width of the compound slide width, ie tool may not be out far enough to clear edges, or will have excessive overhang.
RyanLast edited by Ryan in Melbour; 21st Jul 2016 at 01:08 AM. Reason: miss quoted tool post type, added more information AXA, BXA and DXA
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21st Jul 2016, 09:19 AM #67Most Valued Member
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I would suggest the BXA as a more suitable size.
If you already have 20mm shank tools they don't look like they will fit the CXA, you would need to remove something from the top or bottom.
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21st Jul 2016, 02:52 PM #68Senior Member
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I don't have tools yet.
the CXA will take up to 3/4" (19.05mm) tools.
putting the next size down tooling, which I think is 16mm, into a CXA would get me within 0.6mm of centre height.
do these things need to have the tool holder roughly on centre to lock up correctly? is it different if its a wedge or a piston type?
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21st Jul 2016, 04:53 PM #69Most Valued Member
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Why do you think you need the CXA.
For general smaller work that you would find in a home workshop either style of holder in my opinion would be suitable,if one was cheaper than the other I would probably choose the cheaper.
From my experience I have found holders from a wedge will fit a piston but not always the other way round.
You haven't yet purchased tooling so your choice of size post is not tool dependent.
It would be better to have the majority of the tool holder against the tool post ( at least 51%.
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21st Jul 2016, 06:17 PM #70Senior Member
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this was my thinking.
D = 94.65mm (this is also the width of the compound slide)
i.e. the current tool post is 94.65mm square and then the tool needs to stick out from there.
anything smaller could result in the compound slide to contact the work before the tool unless I stick the tool out a fair way. Maybe I need to think through the dimensions some more.
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21st Jul 2016, 06:51 PM #71Most Valued Member
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The tool posts are designed to better suit lathe swings,yours would be around 13" I would think,the BXA falls into this range,the CXA is at the start of that swing.
You do realise that the tool post does not have to cover your compound totally to work correctly.
Do you also realise that the tool holder will make the overall width of the tool post wider by may be 1 1/2", then the tool cutting edge is generally out side of the tool holder.
If you think you may touch the compound you should just concentrate on what you will be doing,even doing a dry run before starting a job to make sure that everything is going to clear.
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26th Oct 2016, 09:31 PM #72Senior Member
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26th Oct 2016, 09:33 PM #73Senior Member
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