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  1. #61
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Bullsbrook, Western Australia
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    31

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    Not a bad idea Ryan;

    Gave the guys at Mircomax a call, Paul was usefull and suggested that the alarm it is raising is W13 - %200 over current, and W12 - %200 over torque limit.

    So with that in mind he suggested that the B grade insulation used in the 70's probably inst going to stand up to the variance in frequency.

    Time to get the motor rewound i think.

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Melbourne
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    202

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    I have no idea where you would get supplies to re-wind a motor. Doesn't look to hard though.

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Bullsbrook, Western Australia
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    31

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    I was just going to have some one do it, it looks fairly simple, but if you got it wrong i can only imagine! im a bit lost in it at the moment, any motor that is in Y should be able to run of 240v in Delta, so, i might have to look closer for a short, but the ohm meter measures equal resistance across all the coils and no leak between coils or to earth. So, i have no idea why the VFD wont run it, however, not having the name plate data to work of makes it increasingly difficult.

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    202

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    When you are doing the conversion from Star to Delta at the motor connections, can you get the bridging wrong so that it won’t run or will it just result in the motor turning in the opposite direction?

    I had no name plate data either to help when it came to working out the connections. So they only way I could work it out was to label each of the slots in the armature where the windings are and work out which way each of the windings ran. I think from memory I had 48 slot – ie each winding/phase uses 16 of the slots spread evenly around the armature frame. For each of the windings/phase it is further split into groups to give the number of poles that the motor has and its synchronous speed at 50Hz.

    In my case my motor was ~1400 rating and this corresponds to a 4 pole motor, ie 2 north poles and 2 south poles with each pole being orientated 90 degrees around the frame .
    I then sketched out how the windings looped through the frame. Remembering the right/left hand grip rules from physics/electrical theory
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flemin...ule_for_motors

    if you think of north poles as slots in your armature where the winding goes into the motor assuming you are starting from and end, and then a south pole as ones where the windings come up and out from the frame you should be able to follow the path of the winding all the way around the frame from 1 end of the winding to the other.

    I think I had a link a few pages back showing a vid where a bloke was winding a motor for an electric car.
    [edited to add, -post #8 back on the second page of the thread]

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Bullsbrook, Western Australia
    Posts
    31

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    that makes sense, obviously the first winding is then V1, U1, W1 Respectively? I have found the individual coil using continuity, so obviously they need to be in the correct order (Phased properly if you will) for the motor to run properly. With that in mind i will go and have another look, picked up some proper silicon coated wire today so i will solder the new leads on, nothing is leaking to ground, nothing is leaking between coils

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    202

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryan in Melbour View Post
    Quick change tool posts…..

    Im in need of some tooling to go into the lathe and am considering getting a quick change tool post now, so that anything I buy will be compatible with it. So I am after advice on this subject.
    This is the one I was thinking about
    L292 | QA-140 Quick Change Toolpost | For Sale Sydney Brisbane Melbourne Perth | Buy Workshop Equipment & Machinery online at machineryhouse.com.au



    the measurements for my lathe are
    B = 8.5mm
    C = 47.33mm
    D = 94.65mm (this is also the width of the compound slide)
    h = 62.39mm
    H = 35.5mm
    The stud that the current tool post mounts on has a flange at the base 21.95mm diameter and 4.55mm high, then the main body is 18.65mm and is 85mm high and threaded to ¾ Whitworth (10TPI). This will obviously need some work and will likely need a new stud made or the existing one turned down as the QTP has a bore of 16mm. Im fairly certain that the mount into the compound will also be ¾ whitworth as well.

    T = The tool thickness on my existing post is 25.5mm however part of this is above the centre height so its not directly relevant to the selection criteria.

    I had a look at the unit at H&F yesterday, it looks like material could easily be taken off the bottom of the QTP, easily 3mm, the centre for the stud might even be able to be bored out.

    Is this a dumb idea, is that style of tool post ok?

    its odd that the H&F range of tool posts jumps from 16mm tooling and goes straight to 25mm, missing the 20mm range all together.
    Thoughts please

    Ryan
    OK, i have been looking around and it looks like i am after the "CXA" sized tool post.and with CTC being back i may have a solution!
    (the other sizes are AXA, BXA and DXA with A being smallest and D largest)

    QUICK CHANGE TOOLPOST SET (6PCS) - WEDGE TYPE #L137 | CTC Tools



    Im looking at the 200-300 version. most things look ok i think. The part i'm not sure on is getting the tool centre height. on my lathe, from the top of the compound slide to the centre it is ~35.5mm. Assuming i have the tool holder all the way down with the 300 version and i am using 20mm tooling the lowest i would get would be measurement "A" on the tool holders of 39.1mm or +3.6mm above centre

    if i subtract the dimension "B" 19.05 from "A" = 39.10 i get the thickness of the bottom ledge of the tool holder = 20.05mm. If i mill this down by the 3.6mm i need to get to centre height i'm still at 16.45mm which is greater than the same measurement for the next model down ("A" 28.57mm - "B" 15.87mm = 12.7mm for reference).

    The next model down will easily do it, but then its smaller all over and is unlikely to clear the width of the compound slide width, ie tool may not be out far enough to clear edges, or will have excessive overhang.

    Ryan
    Last edited by Ryan in Melbour; 21st Jul 2016 at 01:08 AM. Reason: miss quoted tool post type, added more information AXA, BXA and DXA

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney ( st marys )
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    64
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    4,887

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    I would suggest the BXA as a more suitable size.

    If you already have 20mm shank tools they don't look like they will fit the CXA, you would need to remove something from the top or bottom.

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Melbourne
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    I don't have tools yet.
    the CXA will take up to 3/4" (19.05mm) tools.

    putting the next size down tooling, which I think is 16mm, into a CXA would get me within 0.6mm of centre height.

    do these things need to have the tool holder roughly on centre to lock up correctly? is it different if its a wedge or a piston type?

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney ( st marys )
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    Why do you think you need the CXA.

    For general smaller work that you would find in a home workshop either style of holder in my opinion would be suitable,if one was cheaper than the other I would probably choose the cheaper.

    From my experience I have found holders from a wedge will fit a piston but not always the other way round.

    You haven't yet purchased tooling so your choice of size post is not tool dependent.

    It would be better to have the majority of the tool holder against the tool post ( at least 51%.

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    Why do you think you need the CXA.
    this was my thinking.
    D = 94.65mm (this is also the width of the compound slide)

    i.e. the current tool post is 94.65mm square and then the tool needs to stick out from there.
    anything smaller could result in the compound slide to contact the work before the tool unless I stick the tool out a fair way. Maybe I need to think through the dimensions some more.

  11. #71
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney ( st marys )
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    64
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    The tool posts are designed to better suit lathe swings,yours would be around 13" I would think,the BXA falls into this range,the CXA is at the start of that swing.

    You do realise that the tool post does not have to cover your compound totally to work correctly.

    Do you also realise that the tool holder will make the overall width of the tool post wider by may be 1 1/2", then the tool cutting edge is generally out side of the tool holder.

    If you think you may touch the compound you should just concentrate on what you will be doing,even doing a dry run before starting a job to make sure that everything is going to clear.

  12. #72
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    202

    Default




  13. #73
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