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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Sydney
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    27

    Default Nuttall Lathe adjustments.

    So, hi to everyone and if it all goes to plan I'm sure someone will be able to assist with my question.
    This is my first post on MF, but have posted before on the WF.
    Sitting in the corner of our workshop is a "NUTTALL CENTRE LATHE" C model 6.5" 40" BC. I think it's an old TAFE machine and has stamped on the Bed. 1967.
    We have had it for about 15yrs and use it rarely in our business (to make the odd pin or clean one up etc) We don't have a dedicated operator for it and it's usually left to me if we need something (that doesn't need to be too exact). So what I know about lathes is what I've learned myself on this one and, I seem to be using it more and more these days and while everything on the machine seems to work ok, I have a feeling that it could do with some tweaking with the adjustments etc. So my question(s) is(are).
    1. Does anyone have the same type of lathe and if so, know how to give it an overall adjustment?
    2. Is there some sort of "Machinist's bible" that would give the basics on working with and setting up a lathe (and adjustments)?

    Note:
    I realise that the Machinist trade, is a very skillful one and I also realise that by reading a book or being told how to use a lathe will not make me too skillful.
    It will however lead me in the right direction and possibly make it safer.

    Thanks in advance.
    Slim

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,540

    Default

    There is a Hercus turning text book that may help
    https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&r...xSM2B-SrQpB2BA
    Other than that it is practice and asking questions.

    Michael

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    27

    Default

    Thanks Michael. Fantastic. Thats my reading for this evening sorted.
    Slim

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    NSW
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    Default

    There is not that many things that you need to do really .
    Two things that will help is make sure the lathe is very level crossways and length ways and put the level on the flats not the v-ways . If the level is too long cross ways build the flats up above the v-ways with some milling parallels and put the level on that . Use a machinists level not a builders level.
    Machining a bar between centres and creating two collars on the bar one near the spindle and one down toward the tail stock and taking a fine finishing cut from one collar continuing to the next at the same cross slide setting . Then you measure the two diameters . If they are the same the tail stock is inline if they are not it needs adjustment and re-machining to test .
    Safety is a different issue , never wear loose fitting floppy clothing , never wear gloves , never leave the key in the chuck , Never put tools in a rack behind the chuck where you have to reach over the chuck to get them , don't get into a habit of stopping the chuck with your hands after the machine is turned off . I'm sure you already know a lot of this .
    The volume of a pizza of thickness 'a' and radius 'z' is given by pi z z a.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    near Warragul, Victoria
    Posts
    3,718

    Default

    Hi Slim I guess you have seen this Page Title I have a Nuttall and it is a solid heavy beast , built like a battleship despite being only moderately larger than a Hercus 9 in its work piece capacity . Interesting seeing Jack Brabham and his Nuttall, apparently he learn't machining informally from a experienced teacher, Jack never did a fitting apprenteship. From all accounts he was brilliant turner and fitter.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    537

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    Jack Brabham did Mechanical engineering at night tech well before he joined the RAAF , became a Pilot but was side tracked into aircraft maintenance due to his engineering skills. Once out of the RAAF he was involved in a small business that had machining as a component . I don't think he needed to be a fitter to understand a lathe being a mechanical engineer and a aircraft mechanic.
    The volume of a pizza of thickness 'a' and radius 'z' is given by pi z z a.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    near Warragul, Victoria
    Posts
    3,718

    Default pilot

    Jack Brabham was never a pilot in the RAAF . I don't thing doing a engineering course means you are automatically a skilled machinist either . This quote from his official website "A retired engineer Bill Armstrong spent a lot of time teaching him how to do general machine work" .http://www.jack-brabham-engines.com/biography.aspx

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    27

    Default

    There's no doubt about it, Jack Brabham was a true, world champ and if he 'drove' his Nuttall, like his cars, then I'm sure he was probably pretty good at it.
    I asked a friend of mine about my lathe (he has a small machine shop) His first question was, How old is the machine? And the second question was. When did you last change the chuck?
    I discarded the first question (being 66 myself) but thought about the second and as per the Nuttall handbook put a piece of round bright bar 45mm x 300mm in the 3 jaw sc chuck (I think it's the original). With the bar in about 50mm I could feel movement and, as my friend pointed out, noticed that the jaws appeared to be 'belled' on the ends. After obtaining some quick advice from youtube I decided my jaws needed grinding and have done this and it appears to have somewhat fixed this problem. So now my measurement on the bright bar, close to the chuck, varies about 5 thou and about 10 thou on the other end. (this is after tapping to get it centered). And, by way, is it normal to have to have to use the dial guage to centre the work each time its put in the jaws? Shouldn't the jaws perfectly centre the work each time? It seems that most of the time I am taking a cut off the work then taking it out to see if it fits the job then putting it back in, measuring, and taking a bit more off etc etc etc.
    I haven't even got to the tailstock yet.
    Does the headstock need adjusting? My machinist friend seemed to go a little quiet when I mentioned this.
    My small project is appearing to show signs of a Ben Hur epic.
    Thanks for listening
    Slim

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
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    Default

    You could be right he may never have been a Pilot but he did join to be a Pilot . However I am sure a mechanical engineer is quite smart enough to become a self taught skilled machinist . Bill Armstrong may well have taught him but I am sure he was smart enough to work it out himself in time.
    No one said it automatically makes him a skilled machinist you are exaggerating what was said but it does make him smart enough to work it all out .
    The volume of a pizza of thickness 'a' and radius 'z' is given by pi z z a.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Sydney
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    Default

    To Retromilling. l note what you said about making sure the lathe is level. Getting the foundation right is very important.
    My lathe is on concrete and in the same position for 15yrs and was only leveled with a builders level.
    Other than using a machinists level (which I don't have) what method is there?
    Also as Morrisman says, the Nuttall is a 'solid heavy beast'
    Slim

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    NSW
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    Your chuck jaws could be worn . When re-chucking work in a 3 jaw I put a whiteout dot on one jaw and a dot on the job so I can align it again even when turning it around it helps . 3 jaw chucks will not perfectly re-centre work all the time but a good one should be very close my 3 jaw centres to .001 . Grinding the jaws off the chuck can still leave some run-out , grinding them still in the chuck is better . This is why I just can't get excited over old second hand lathes some have too many problems and picking a good one is a job for an expert . Don't touch the headstock alignment until all other possibilities are covered. With a well worn lathe the spindle bearings could be sloppy also . If you can feel sideways movement on the bar then that can be the spindle bearings and they can usually be adjusted up tighter but how on a Nuttall I have no clue .
    Don't move the head try adjusting the spindle bearings first .
    You can only level with what you have keep reversing the level and split the bubble difference. The worst out of level situation is bed twist try and get any out as much as possible.
    The volume of a pizza of thickness 'a' and radius 'z' is given by pi z z a.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    27

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    I did grind the jaws in the chuck. I made 3 blocks so that I could put pressure on the jaws in the closing position and then fixed a die grinder to the toolpost. It worked out ok.
    On one of my YouTube views I can across one where they changed the position of each jaw in the chuck and each time it was a different measurement. Maybe I'll try that, after checking the spindle bearing adjustment (if there is adjustment)
    I'll leave the headstock adjustment alone until all other things are fixed

  13. #13
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    Apr 2008
    Location
    NSW
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    The thing is some older lathes can have bronze bush type spindle bearings and they can't be adjusted like a taper roller bearing system .
    I can't find a spindle design schematic for that lathe .
    The volume of a pizza of thickness 'a' and radius 'z' is given by pi z z a.

  14. #14
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    near Rockhampton
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    Default

    It will have either tapered rollers or cylindrical roller bearings in the spindle.
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

  15. #15
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    Sep 2008
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    I think the handbook says it has taper bearings and that they were set at the factory. So maybe they are adjustable. I'll just have to find out how

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