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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    470

    Default Okuma LP Lathe Clean Up and Repair

    G'day people,
    This is my first thread hope you enjoy it. I sold my chinese steel master lathe and purchase this Japanese Okuma LP Lathe. She weighs in at 2 tons heavy duty just how i like it Some specifications here
    360mm swing over the bed 400mm swing over gap, 600mm between centers, 5HP 3 phase motor, coolant pump, 33mm spindle bore, A1-5 spindle nose, variable speed knopp variator, approx 45-2500 rpm, MT3 tailstock taper.
    So will be working on this lathe for a while to get it clean up,do some repairs and get it running on a VFD.
    Cheers,
    Mark.Resize of IMG_5816.jpgResize of IMG_5809.jpgResize of IMG_5811.jpgResize of IMG_5826.jpgResize of IMG_5829.jpgResize of IMG_5830.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    35
    Posts
    1,522

    Default

    That looks like a really nice, clean machine, I really like that nice big horizontal traverse handwheel. Did Okuma eventually get absorbed by Mori-Seiki? If you ever need a hand let me know.

    Came with a QCTP too!, did you get a 4 jaw and steadies?

    Ralph

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    470

    Default

    G'day Ralph,
    She not that clean when you look at these photos. Okuma are still making lathes only CNC Yeah got the 4 jaw and steadies just wanting for a manual to arrive from the US. I remove the apron as there is a lot of crud that has settle on the bottom of the apron and behind the unit as well.Resize of IMG_5841.jpgResize of IMG_5844.jpgResize of IMG_5846.jpgResize of IMG_5854.jpgResize of IMG_5856.jpgResize of IMG_5860.jpgResize of IMG_5867.jpgResize of IMG_5874.jpgResize of IMG_5878.jpg

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    470

    Default

    No worries, there will more to come.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    470

    Default

    Today i spent the hole day cleaning the lathe and drain the gearbox oil which was nice and clean so will put that oil back in and drain the Kopp variator the oil is dark but no nasties in the oil, there is a service tag on the variator case might have been rebuilt ? Also the felt pads arrive the other day, will start work on the apron tomorrow.
    Cheers,
    Mark.
    Resize of IMG_5887.jpgResize of IMG_5879.jpgResize of IMG_5880.jpgResize of IMG_5881.jpgResize of IMG_5883.jpgResize of IMG_5884.jpgResize of IMG_5885.jpgResize of IMG_5886.jpg

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    470

    Default

    Resize of IMG_5888.jpgResize of IMG_5889.jpgResize of IMG_5890.jpgResize of IMG_5893.jpgResize of IMG_5891.jpgResize of IMG_5892.jpg Done some cleaning on the apron today, remove the bottom plate and clean out all the sludge. I want to remove some of those rusty gears and shafts but those bloody pins won't budge will use the heat gun and see if that will work Will do a final clean tomorrow and put the apron on the workbench and check for any damage gears ect,ect
    Cheers,
    Mark.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,540

    Default

    Looks good so far. The rust only looks slight, so provided that coolant won't get in again, I would not get too upset about not being able to get the gears out. If it really bothered you, how about some paper towel wrapped around them that has been soaked in evaporust?

    Michael

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    470

    Default

    G'day Michael,
    Yeah she coming along nicely. Mmmm you got me thinking about what you said as it is slight rust witch i can use a small wire brush and maybe some evaporust as well. The shafts are not seize and all work, so best not and try to remove them don't wont to damage anything in there. Thanks for your suggestion
    Cheers,
    Mark.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    470

    Default

    I got some time to work on the apron today. LOL i lost count on how many times i have flush out the inside of the apron but nice and clean now, had to use compress air to blow out some flaky paint, hopefully i got most of it out. Clean all the other parts and clean off the old silicone gasket. And found some string to replace some of the oil wicks.Resize of IMG_5901.jpgResize of IMG_5894.jpgResize of IMG_5895.jpgResize of IMG_5896.jpgResize of IMG_5900.jpgResize of IMG_5899.jpgResize of IMG_5898.jpgResize of IMG_5897.jpgResize of IMG_5903.jpgResize of IMG_5904.jpg

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,540

    Default

    Not sure there would be a great deal of benefit making a cover for the half nut oil reservoir - when everything is assembled it's covered by the carriage.

    Michael

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    201

    Default

    Good progress! Do you know what the string you've chosen is made from? I'm restoring a lathe myself and I need to replace some oil wicks and I've been wondering what to use. I found pipe cleaners in the oil pots on mine.

    Graham.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    470

    Default

    G'day Michael,
    Mmmm yeah i see what you mean i
    suppose i can blow out any metal chips with compress air.

    Cheers,
    Mark.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    470

    Default

    G'day Graham,
    Thanks mate. I don't know what type of string it is just had it lying around the shop so done a test on it and works well. I did do a lot of
    research on oil wicks. Here is some web links that should help you out, you could use lighter wicks, oil lamp wicks, non wax candle wicks. http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/BabbittLubrication.ashx http://www.heritagesteamsupplies.co....cator-kit.html

    Cheers,
    Mark.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Ballarat
    Age
    65
    Posts
    3,103

    Default

    Hi Mark
    before you go too far with the wicks I have some information that may be of some assistance. As you can imagine I use wicks on a daily basis at work and have done many many test on what to use with the modern oils of today. I found that wool was by far the best to use and make up the trimmings according to the methods in the attached pics. They are easy to make using a coil of copper wire and a ball of wool.
    If you need any more info just let me know.
    I have just noticed nthat the pics aren't very clear so if you find it hard to read them I will scan them again.

    Phil
    Wick lubrication.jpg Wick lubrication 2.jpg Wicks.jpg

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    470

    Default

    G'day Phil,
    Thanks for your reply and thanks for the info some good reading there. Looks like i have the tail oil wick trimmings for the lathe. I was thinking of using wool but the ID of the oil tubes are ~3 mm i could use cotton? The test i did was with oil from the gearbox i had no oil from the apron. I need to wait until the manual arrives then i will know what oil to use for the apron and will do another test with that string which it might be cotton or cotton and nylon. Here is a photo of some oil wicks what do you think this string could be made off?
    Cheers,
    Mark.
    fw10.jpg

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