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9th Nov 2016, 04:59 PM #31
Got the saddle on today and done some tests on the oil system all good and now stated work on the tail stock.
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12th Nov 2016, 06:27 PM #32
I had to drill holes in the tailstock base plate to get these rollers out. And clean up the compound and quick change tool holder and adjusted all the gibs, will check it again when i level out the lathe.Resize of IMG_5955.jpgResize of IMG_5947.jpgResize of IMG_5948.jpgResize of IMG_5952.jpgResize of IMG_5953.jpgResize of IMG_5954.jpg
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12th Nov 2016, 07:10 PM #33Pink 10EE owner
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- near Rockhampton
- Posts
- 6,218
I would leave those rollers out. They do not achieve much. My 10EE had a similar setup but with balls. The idea is you unlock the tailstock and the spring loaded rollers lift the tailstock and it runs along the rollers, stopping wear. They forgot that over time they sieze up and just wear flats and wear out the tailstock bed ways.
Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.
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12th Nov 2016, 09:39 PM #34
Yeah i was thinking of leveing them out, i have some bakelite material somewhere or i could use some Igus material. The tailstock is very heavy.
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20th Nov 2016, 12:27 PM #35
Work on the lathe has slowed down a bit, waiting for a piece of bakelite rod to arrive then i can finish off the tailstock repair. Cleaned up the back panels and bolted them in back in place, will see if i can get the ammeter gauge repared or find a replacement. Working on the felt wiper holders at the moment.
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11th Dec 2016, 06:30 PM #36
Been doing a bit of work on the lathe, not much as we are getting close to Xmas, so lots of preparation jobs to be done for Xmas. I took out the coolant pump and clean out that section of the tank were the pump sits, lots of flaky paint was coming off need to get get as much of that paint off so it wont block the pump, it had wire mesh sitting under the pump with a hose clamp don't know if that was factory fitted I pulled apart the 3 jaw scroll chuck for cleaning, very worn out scroll gear will need a replacement chuck in the future.
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11th Dec 2016, 09:42 PM #37Diamond Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2014
- Location
- South of Adelaide
- Posts
- 1,227
I wouldn't be too worried about the wear on the scroll gear. It would have taken 30 years of workshop abuse to get to that stage, I doubt it will get any worse. If the chuck run out isn't too bad I wouldn't bother replacing it.
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12th Dec 2016, 08:45 AM #38
Yeah 30 + years of abuse, will still use it and will get a new chuck latter on. Have started cleaning up the 4 jaw chuck at the moment something is not right with this chuck, will give a update latter today.
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12th Dec 2016, 01:40 PM #39
Pulled apart the 4 jaw chuck, was hard to unscrew each jaw out of the chuck clean all the parts up and done a test fit before assembly. All the jaws got stuck number 3 jaw almost went all the way in, does anyone know were i can get this chuck repaired or should i get a replacement chuck
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12th Dec 2016, 01:55 PM #40Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2016
- Location
- Melbourne
- Age
- 35
- Posts
- 1,522
Will the jaws go in if you try them in different slots? are they numbered by the factory, some more detailed photos of the chuck jaw slots and screws might help. In terms of fixing the thing, you are on your own I would say (with us around though )
my guess would be something like although the jaws are in the right slots the screws themselves have been mixed around, some hi-spot blue or a sharpie might let you see what kind of contact is being made.
If you need another lathe to fix the screws happy to volunteer my time and machine.
Ralph
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12th Dec 2016, 01:59 PM #41Philomath in training
- Join Date
- Oct 2011
- Location
- Norwood-ish, Adelaide
- Age
- 59
- Posts
- 6,562
If they were in there to start with then it can not be all bad - in fact it's good as it looks like there is not much wear there. From your photos it looks like you have no lubrication between the jaws and the chuck body, and that the screws are not in. For a tight fit you would have better success with both I think.
Check both the jaws and the part they run in for burrs. It may be in the past something has dinged part of the chuck slightly. Emery wrapped around a file or flat block should be enough to take off the high points.
Michael
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13th Dec 2016, 01:45 PM #42
Yeah i know what you mean, the chinese lathe i had the chuck was very hard to turn with the chuck key, i found out the scroll gear had some warpage due to over tightening of the chuck me thinks I got some flat block brass and stuck emery cloth on and gave a bit of sanding has fix it, not prefect but once i start working with the lathe will put the 4 jaw chuck to work and will see if it wears in a bit and make it more user friendly.
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13th Dec 2016, 01:54 PM #43
Hi Ralph,
Thanks for the offer mate. I tried using different slots still have the same problem, the jaws are fine and the screws are prefect it's the chuck housing. But i have fix the problem using some emery cloth stuck on a brass flat and just gave the slots a bit of sanding, a good 45 minutes on one slot three more to go.
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21st Dec 2016, 01:38 PM #44
Some photos of what i have done for this year. I got a second hand pratt burnerd chuck to replace the worn out one, only problem with this one no reverse jaws Panted the sides of the coolant tank and replace the hose as the other hose was hard as a rock, and fitted the chip guard back on will do some mods to the guard in the new year. Got my first quote to run a three phase line to the garage $4,026 including GST. I'll get some more quotes next year.
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22nd Feb 2017, 12:00 PM #45
OK new year update on the lathe, had new rollers made up out of some bakelite rod for the tail stock. I'm thinking i could of use brass or bronze for the rollers, but this will do for now and i want to make new roller carriers as well.
At last got the three phase line installed , three electrical contractors to do the job was a lot to do. Now got to wait for the truck appointment to hook up three phase power witch may take two weeks won't be long know and i can do some test on the machine.
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