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Thread: Whisperings
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12th Aug 2016, 08:50 AM #886
Great Pix
Hi Phil,
Some very nice interesting pictures there. I've seen an engine that I think is similar to this one, actually in steam. I'll try to remember to take my camera next time I visit.
Re pic 3. I assume that the pin is a steel one cast in place. Other than using a core drill and drilling it out from each side, so that it can be machined back to being round and then sleeved back to size, I think it would be a case of making a lap and lots of elbow grease
If you went with my suggestion, then I would make bronze bushes to support the pin when it gets put back. Not original I know but it would make it easier to service in future. You might also get away with not having to make a new split bush for it.
I would be interested in your thoughts.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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12th Aug 2016, 11:37 AM #887Golden Member
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G'day Phil,
The conundrum of how to machine a one piece crosshead casting was a topic of discussion in the antique machinery area of PM. I went searching for the answer to this same question a year or so ago after looking at a similar single casting crosshead that was part of an old winch engine, again of American origin.
Steam engine part – How machined?
The best best answer is provided in post 43, for those who can't be bothered reading the whole post, although it is an interesting read, these are the relevant patents.
Cheers,
Greg.
Crosshead Pin Lathe Patent US322212A.pdf
Crosshead Pin Lathe Patent US745214A.pdf
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12th Aug 2016, 07:51 PM #888Philomath in training
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If you were doing lots, yes. I like the method in post 13 as a way to do a one off
Michael
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15th Aug 2016, 07:11 AM #889Most Valued Member
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Hmmm didn't think there was an easy answer. I'm going to leave it as there is no load and at the end of the day it is run by an electric motor so it isn't real.
A couple more pics and I'll get into some of the parts I had to make repair etc.
Phil
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15th Aug 2016, 07:32 AM #890
IMG_9554 copy.JPG So with the rod now being pulled, instead of pushing, the wear will occur on a different part of the pin? If not, maybe you should consider having the electric motor rotate it in the opposite direction - so as to even up the wear (seeing as it isn't real).
Just my tuppence worth...
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
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15th Aug 2016, 01:20 PM #891
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15th Aug 2016, 02:14 PM #892
The way I figured it, authenticity went out the window as soon as the electric motor was confirmed. My thoughts were to delay failure of the coupling by evenning out the wear a bit, in the hope that steam powering might be reconsidered at some future point.
Other opinions may differ .
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
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15th Aug 2016, 11:41 PM #893
I was thinking of authenticity in relation to someone like me standing looking at it and seeing it rotating the way it was meant to under power, just in case an attempt was made to determine what was happening. I would be really annoyed to spend ages trying to work it out only to find that it was running reverse to normal operation.
Dean
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16th Aug 2016, 07:20 AM #894Most Valued Member
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Hi Vann
my fault, I should have stuck a couple of arrows in pointing to the brass pieces on either side of the crosshead. That is where the wear is or actually isn't in this case. The wrist pin as it is called gets the same wear whether running 'over' or 'under' (to use the correct terminology). The guides wear only on the bottom when running over but both top and bottom when the engine is running under, confusing?
The problem is that the engine will be driven from the crankshaft instead of the piston so the engine will have to be run in reverse (to what the valve gear is set up to do) to save the crosshead guides from 'bouncing' at the end of each stroke due to the fact that I haven't tightened up the tolerances on the top guides.
Hi Dean
I had that exact discussion with the boss. Anyone that is trying to work out the valve movements will get confused, and we get a lot of people trying to do just that.
We could relocate the position of the valve eccentric but how far do you go.
If the eccentric isn't keyed to the crankshaft we may just do it though.
I could make it even more confusing and tell people it is an 'inside admission valve' but I would probably cop a backhander for my trouble.
If anyone needs more explanation on what is meant by 'running over' and 'running under', don't hesitate to ask and I'll try and do a better job
Phil
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16th Aug 2016, 11:49 AM #895Hi Dean
I had that exact discussion with the boss. Anyone that is trying to work out the valve movements will get confused, and we get a lot of people trying to do just that.
We could relocate the position of the valve eccentric but how far do you go.
It is automatic for me to follow logic to see what is going on. Should I bring a mirror?
Dean
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16th Aug 2016, 08:20 PM #896Most Valued Member
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10th Jun 2017, 09:20 AM #897Most Valued Member
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Hi all
first up an apology is in order as I am rocketing towards 12 months since I have posted here. In my defence I have been keeping my head low as it seems everytime I pop it up I get it knocked around a little bit (Not here I might add).
The Nagle engine is finally up and running albeit on an electric motor, and I am sure everyone knows my thoughts on that. But, the moving engine sure has prompted a lot of questions and generated a lot of interest from our visitors which is a good thing.
First up is the fly balls for the governor. They were missing. I needed to get a couple of new ones cast so the first stop on the way to the foundry was to 'Spotlight' to get a couple of 4" polystyrene balls for the pattern.
The rest is history.
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10th Jun 2017, 11:00 AM #898Philomath in training
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What, not two big brass ones?
Was 4" the original size or just a guess based on 'looks about right'?
Michael
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10th Jun 2017, 11:44 AM #899
Its only got two balls?
Dean
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10th Jun 2017, 12:35 PM #900Most Valued Member
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Hi Michael
Brass monkeys are a bit rare nowadays (and yes I do know what a real brass monkey is)
I reckon I measured the diameter of every governor of this style that we have and there is at times only 1/8" difference in diameter between some of them.
I should have worked it out mathematically but for that I would need to know the maximum RPM required for the engine in duty. As it will be only doing approximately 3.5 RPM and will never come in to play I opted for the 'looks about right' option. The bigger the balls the more sensitive it is in operation (still talking about the governor here).
It certainly looks the part even if the casting could have been better.
Must build that ball turner!
Phil