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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    near Warragul, Victoria
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    3,718

    Default Morris truck restore project

    I hope to be doing some work on this early WW2 era Morris truck project soon. A long term thing . I have accumulated many parts and wrecks over the years . I have 6 motors .

    A problem I have with the engine is the water jacket side cover on the engine block. The cover is held on with many 1/4" bolts ( maybe 6mm ) . The bolts have become somewhat fragile after 70 years and they break off easily . It may be a metric 6mm thread - Morris engines used some metric threads because William Morris purchased the French Hotchkiss factory which was making munitions during WW1 - he inherited all of the metric tooling .

    I am thinking of what are the options ? Heating is possible but it may damage the cover itself .

    Any advice appreciated .

    I would also like to remove the head studs, another nightmare job .

    cover.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
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    5,942

    Default

    Do you have access to a TIG welder? If so, try heating the bolts with the TIG, shouldn't effect the water jacket cover. If you can get the bolts hot enough, they should shrink enough to be able to loosen the bolts. If any are sheared off, hopefully enough bolt is showing to be able to weld a nut to, again with the TIG, heating should crack them lose also.
    Hope this helps.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
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    6,540

    Default

    Don't overlook the ezy-out either as they can be surprisingly effective in some situations. The head studs should be helped with the application of some penetrating oil. The water jacket bolts will not be as obliging but at the same time I don't see any rust other than normal atmospheric stuff on the parts so they may surprise you and come out relatively easily (then again, they may surprise me and be an absolute pig as well)

    Michael

  4. #4
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    Jul 2008
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    near Warragul, Victoria
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    Default

    OK good tips

    The cover may have to be sacrificed if it comes to that. I could possibly make a new cover from brass sheet .

    I do have a proper stud puller tool . If I heat the head studs above the block surface, the heat will travel down in to the stud . I am rather worried about heating the cast block in small areas because expansion fractures can happen .

    BTW this is a page from my old web site . Geocities closed it down but somebody saved it ! The trucks are what I have .

    CS8page

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Murray Bridge S Aust.
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    Default

    Nice article on the CS8 Mike, thanks for that, found it interesting reading.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    near Warragul, Victoria
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    Default No luck

    I tried heating and much lubricant but no luck. The side cover bolt heads just broke off . The metal in the old bolts is like plasticine it just bends and fractures so easily . Its now the ezy out method . BTW the bolt threads measure up as 5.85mm OD - there are little copper washers behind the bolt head , a sealing method I guess .

    The other possible fix is to drill out and tap to the next size up which would be 5/16" or 8mm . There is enough room to do this and I feel it would be an easier fix method.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Murray Bridge S Aust.
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    Default

    Mike, I found this trick works well. To drill the centre out for broken studs/bolts, get a bit of scrap metal drill a hole the same size as the stud, don't drill all the way through and finish drilling with the size required to either re thread or pilot hole or for ezy out. If the broken studs are the same distance apart, make up the jig with 1 hole and another can be on slotted centres, one the size of the bolt the other the drill size required, this is then bolted/clamped over the bolts to drill them out and re tapped, keeps the drill bit on centre, a hardened guide would be even better.
    Hope this helps,
    Kryn
    Last edited by KBs PensNmore; 22nd Jan 2017 at 02:19 PM. Reason: Clarification
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    QLD
    Posts
    735

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by morrisman View Post
    I tried heating and much lubricant but no luck. The side cover bolt heads just broke off . The metal in the old bolts is like plasticine it just bends and fractures so easily . Its now the ezy out method . BTW the bolt threads measure up as 5.85mm OD - there are little copper washers behind the bolt head , a sealing method I guess .

    The other possible fix is to drill out and tap to the next size up which would be 5/16" or 8mm . There is enough room to do this and I feel it would be an easier fix method.
    Going off comments I've seen in other forums - If the bolts are soft then get yer-self a left hand drill thats just big enough to save the threads and pick out whats left in the threads. Being a left hand drill it will likely enuf pick-up the bolt remnants and screw them out anyway.

  9. #9
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    near Warragul, Victoria
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    Default drill

    My options would be in this order:

    1. Try the LH drill and see how it goes - using a jig to align the drill bit on centre.

    2. If the LH drill isn't successful then try the jig method and ezy out. If this doesn't work then.

    3. Drill and tap to larger size .

    Its a slow tedious job but it will turn out OK

    Somebody else I read somewhere , suggested dripping acid into the pilot hole and waiting for the broken piece to be eaten away .

    In any case I've got other things to do like find a set of tyres. A major PITA because they are 900 X 16 and cost a fortune , if I can find some suitable. The original tyres are RUN FLATS which I won't be using .

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Murray Bridge S Aust.
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    Default

    I'd be cautious in dripping acid down the bolt hole, the casting itself could be eaten out.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    North Brisbane. Qld. Australia
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    Default

    My ezy out is usually a piece of suitable allen key with a slight taper on the end. Drill hole slightly under the across corners size. Tap in then use a socket on the piece of allen key.
    Nev.

  12. #12
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    Default

    I try to avoid ezy outs like the plague. Have several different types and found them all to swell the bolt to the extent that they bind up even tighter. I drill them out to as close as possible, then try to get the remains out anyway that works, including heating to soften the remains, and then pick them out.
    Kryn
    Last edited by KBs PensNmore; 22nd Jan 2017 at 09:28 PM. Reason: More details
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
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    72
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    3,102

    Default

    Hi. I see you mentioned 5/16 or M8 as the next bolt size up. Don't overlook M7! Its pitch size is also 1mm (same as M6) and completeley clears the M6 hole. They are still in use and turn up in the darndest places: For reasons I can't fathom, Supercheap Auto stock them, both bolts and nuts, in hi tensile and zinc plated..... Honda still use them in a few places as well. Have used them quite a bit. Taps and dies are easy to get too.
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  14. #14
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    Default

    I managed to get the heavy 3.5 litre engine out of the chassis today , I used a SCA engine crane that I bought years ago. The engine is rated at only 60 bhp but that's limited with a governor ( military convoys were slow ) . The carby is a special Solex updraft . The generator is driven by the timing chain , a duplex chain typical of British vehicles.

    This vehicle has hydraulic brakes . The pipes are copper and only single flares too.

  15. #15
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    near Warragul, Victoria
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    Default

    A common problem with this type of truck, the 70+ year old tyres are very difficult to remove from the split rims.

    The rim halves bolt together . The tyres are RUN FLATS , there is a locking piece between the beads ( see pic ) , the idea is vehicle can be driven with no air in the tube.

    Any suggestions welcome. I may have to cut into the tyre to gain access to the beads , and then grind away the wire inside the beads . What type of cutter would be suitable for cutting into old rubber ?

    trak grip.jpglinedrawtire.jpg

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