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  1. #46
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    Hi Mike, as far as I'm concerned this is the best type of stud removal tool, $14.98 and can be picked up from FJs Discount Tools.... Bayswater or Rosebud, in Melbourne. This was the first one that came up on Ebay.




    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  2. #47
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    near Warragul, Victoria
    Posts
    3,718

    Default puller

    Thanks Kryn Yes I did have a puller similar to your pic , but with a single hole , not two . I broke it yesterday , I think it was a cheap Asian copy . If made from good steel, these style of pullers will do the job , but many of them you see in the shops are made from low quality crap metal . The puller I have ( in the picture ) , is intended for 15mm studs, it will not grab the 12mm studs .

  3. #48
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Cairns, Q
    Posts
    666

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by morrisman View Post
    The original brake linings on the shoes are the old woven type linings , riveted on, I think brake lining technology has gone ahead and something better will be fitted.
    I may be way out with this suggestion in relation to the Morris truck, but if it were me I would investigate further before abandoning the old type soft woven linings. Before fitting modern ones I would check in an appropriate forum with someone who has actually replaced the woven linings with modern ones on one of these trucks. If the advice is that this is OK, get the same linings as they used. I know from bitter experience that is not a good idea to replace the soft woven linings with modern moulded linings on some twenties and early thirties vehicles fitted with mechanical brakes, particularly if they have pressed steel drums, (which does not appear in the photo to be the case with the Morris). They can cause very poor braking performance indeed.

    The Morris brakes may well be powerful enough to handle the modern linings, but I would check first.

    Frank.

  4. #49
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    near Warragul, Victoria
    Posts
    3,718

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by franco View Post
    , (which does not appear in the photo to be the case with the Morris). They can cause very poor braking performance indeed. The Morris brakes may well be powerful enough to handle the modern linings, but I would check first. Frank.
    The drums on this truck are a casting , maybe a type of cast iron ? The drum itself can be removed from the center hub. Back to the engine, I have removed the 12 valves , the inlet seats are in good shape , the exh. seats always suffer in these side valve engines but in this case they are in reasonable shape . I am thinking of fitting hard seat inserts for the ex.valves . Valve seat inserts are tricky to install, they often crack if the machinist has not allowed the correct clearance - Repco were notorious for this , crap workmanship . Today's unleaded fuel ???? I have read that they used unleaded petrol before the war , this is probably why the manual suggests a valve regrind at every 10,000 miles ! Imagine a decoke and a valve regrind every 10,000 miles ! The duplex timing chain is slack , stretched - I can rock the crank back/forward about 5 degrees before the slack is taken up ! Are these chains still available ?

  5. #50
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
    Age
    72
    Posts
    3,102

    Default

    Chains have been made to standards for probably 100 years. I would expect you could buy them at your local bearing service off the shelf by the meter. If you have trouble finding them, let me know. There used to be a chain manufacturer in Port Melbourne but they are gone now....
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  6. #51
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    near Warragul, Victoria
    Posts
    3,718

    Default

    Hi Joe I just looked at the timing chain with a X 50 loupe , I can see " RENOLD ENGLAND" on each link, it measures at 3/8" pitch . I did a quick search and yes it is still available from a bearing service !

  7. #52
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    near Warragul, Victoria
    Posts
    3,718

    Default

    Getting back to the teeth pulling, oops I mean stud pulling - I have an idea. I will machine a length of 1045 steel, and drill it through to just over a 12mm bore . I will then drill a hole crosswise and also offset this hole to the 12mm bore . I will use a short length of a coarse file and taper it on one side , this is a wedge . Not sure what file shape to use yet, they come in many shapes. triangle, square etc. Anyway the wedge should grab onto the stud , the rotational force should add to the grabbing . This tool only needs to last the job , the snap on tools are a similar design but you need to sell your house to afford one

  8. #53
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    112

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by morrisman View Post
    The duplex timing chain is slack , stretched - I can rock the crank back/forward about 5 degrees before the slack is taken up ! Are these chains still available ?
    Are you sure the chain is actually stretched ? While it is quite likely, the 5 degrees slack may not be indicative of excessive wear. Timing chain slack is adjustable on these engines IIRC by pivoting the alternator about its upper mounting bolt. There is also a jockey pulley on the chain to increase its arc of contact with the generator sprocket, which should be checked. A meaningful test of the chain is to see if you can lift links away from the camshaft sprocket at the centre of the chain's arc of contact with the sprocket when the chain is in tension.

    Chas.

  9. #54
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    near Warragul, Victoria
    Posts
    3,718

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    The chain diagram from the manual . Renold chains is in Clayton and they have replacement chain no problem . I made the home made stud puller described in post 52 and it does the job, the only hiccup is the wedge needs to be a precise fit otherwise it tends to break under the stress.
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  10. #55
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    near Warragul, Victoria
    Posts
    3,718

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    This movie shows the type of Morris I am restoring, France 1940.


    British Expeditionary Force In France 1940 British Regiment Pass - British Pathé

  11. #56
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    near Warragul, Victoria
    Posts
    3,718

    Default camshaft

    Been having a little problem . The camshaft is stuck . On the end of the timing gear, there is a spring loaded button , this button sits against a little block in the timing cover. I think the helical gear that drives the oil pump shaft , forces the camshaft forwards against the spring... not sure yet. The other possible thing they did is the front camshaft bearing may be tapered ?? Anyway the camshaft is stuck because it has moved forward 2-3mm and the helical gear has jammed into its mating gear on the oil pump shaft . I need to buy a 55mm socket , the large nut you see has a locking tab, ive already bent the tab over. BTW the vehicles in that movie were, all of them without exception, either destroyed or captured and used by " the enemy " On the flywheel end of the crankshaft, there is a machined groove, this groove throws the oil inwards , a crude oil seal of sorts. The bearing journals will clean up with a polish , emery paper . The bearing caps have brass shims to adjust clearance , there are two shims each side , will see how I go with the plastigauge
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  12. #57
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    112

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    I suggest you first remove the oil pump from the engine before trying to remove the cam shaft. You may find there is a bolted flange retaining the camshaft behind the camshaft gear. There appears to be holes (threaded?) in the gear which would be for a puller. You will find it easier to undo the camshaft nut if the timing chain is in place; you can then jamb the crankshaft to prevent rotation.

    I am not aware of any engine with tapered camshaft bearings. Oil return threads work very well in practice, but they are only effective if the mating outer housing is correctly positioned, i.e. symmetrically with the correct clearance.

    Chas.

  13. #58
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    near Warragul, Victoria
    Posts
    3,718

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    The camshaft is out... I began by carefully hitting the oil pump out with a bar inserted down the distributor drive housing, a few steady blows and it came out . The camshaft was still stuck , I gently hit the rear end of the camshaft , it moved forward slightly , I then tapped each end of the camshaft with a soft hammer , with patience it finally came free . The camshaft journals run in the cast iron block... not seen this before, they usually use white metal bearings. Not able to remove the crankshaft yet , the rear disc with the oil thrower grooves is fouling the rear bearing cap , I have to somehow remove that oil slinger disc, maybe with a puller ?

  14. #59
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    112

    Default

    That's interesting, the data sheet I have for a similar vehicle (Morris Commercial "Leader" 3-4 ton & 4-5ton 1937) gives the camshaft "Four bearings. Front bearing bronze bushed with white-metal lining, flange in front to take thrust of sprocket. Forward thrust taken by spring-loaded hardened steel pin bearing against pad on timing cover. Other bearings are plain, shaft running direct in casting".

    Can you provide a photo showing detail of the problem with the oil thrower and crankshaft removal? It is not obvious from the previous photos.

    Chas.

  15. #60
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    near Warragul, Victoria
    Posts
    3,718

    Default

    Hi Chas The engine I am working on is basically out of the Morris 25 Saloon and also in some of the CV range of trucks . I have the Morris Commercial book written by Harry Edwards , he does mention the 'Leader' . The other problem . I have done a basic drawing of the rear main/thrust bearing setup. The oil slinger disc has a flange on its inner edge and when I lift the crankshaft upwards to remove it , the lower bearing shell jams against that flange . I cannot move the crankshaft forward/backward because the bearing shell thrust faces prevent this. I have removed the upper bearing cap and the two studs but the upper bearing half shell is still resting on the crank journal, I cannot get it out because the flange is in the way PS just had a look and guess what ? You are correct , the front camshaft bearing is white metal , the other three are plain cast iron . raining here and it is BADLY needed
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