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Thread: Morris truck restore project
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26th Feb 2017, 11:22 PM #31
With Army Specs a vehicle with a 5 ton road capacity would be a 2 ton Off road capacity vehicle
Just do it!
Kind regards Rod
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27th Feb 2017, 08:32 PM #32
yes
Yes I have heard similar.
BTW this old Morris is fitted with unusual joints for the prop shaft from gearbox to rear axle. LAYRUB joints . Normally prop shafts have a slip joint to allow for suspension movement , the shaft in this truck has no slip joint in it at all, instead, I think the LAYRUB design allows for some lateral movement in the joints themselves.
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3rd Mar 2017, 09:39 PM #33
king pins
I am at a loss . Why would anybody use .907" diameter: as the king pin size for the front axle of a vehicle ?
I have two front axles pulled apart , and both of them use that size king pin . Could it be, they are 23mm ? The engine has metric bolts and is also a metric bore size, so maybe Morris used metric king pins ?
king.jpg
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4th Mar 2017, 12:58 PM #34Golden Member
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FWIW I restored a couple of Morris cars many years ago, one pre war and one post war, and only the engines were metric - the king pins were a standard Imperial size. However, some companies did supply oversized kingpins to make it easy to repair flogged out king pin holes in an axle - just ream them out to the next standard oversize. and fit oversize bushes. Maybe Morris also supplied oversized kingpins. 0.907 is 7/8" + 0.032", though .032" does seem a fairly large amount over standard. They could possibly have been in steps of 0.008" or 0.016" Maybe the kingpins were 0.900" and oversizes were say 0.004" and 0.008". which would account for the odd kingpin size? It might be worth checking if oversized kingpins were available for Morris trucks.
Frank.
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9th Mar 2017, 09:24 PM #35
The chassis and other bits like wheel rims are back from the sandblaster . Now I can begin the long job - putting it all back together .
The Lockheed hydraulic brake system would have been a relatively new thing back then.
Did I mention the copper brake pipes , with single flares ? That's how they originally did it . Not sure what I will do because copper brake pipes were banned here years ago , they tend to work harden and fracture if they are not firmly attached.
I have witnessed a vehicle careering down a mountain road with no brakes, it flew passed me like a rocket , a hydraulic brake pipe had fractured - the pipe was vibrating and eventually it broke . 2 occupants were extremely lucky to survive the crash , both were thrown over the windscreen and narrowly missed a big tree
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9th Mar 2017, 10:17 PM #36Most Valued Member
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- May 2011
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Are you going for concourse standards??? If not, any decent brake place can make them up for you, or buy a double flaring tool. What size brake pipe is it?
10 Pcs Brake & Air Line Double Flaring Tool Kit w 3 in 1 Tube Bender&Tube Cutter | eBay , looking around the $60.00 mark.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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9th Mar 2017, 10:54 PM #37
You could get a roll of steel brakepipe and get it copper plated to maintain the 'look' without changing the metallurgy - and gain external corrosion resistance....
Cheers, Joe
retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....
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10th Mar 2017, 12:09 AM #38
Hi Kryn. I should have given more details
1/4" pipes they are. Yes I have a modern double flaring tool but the problem is, all of the original old copper pipe fittings/connectors are brass and they are specially designed for the narrow single flares . If I change over to modern steel bundy tubing and double flares, I will have to replace the whole hydraulic system, eg new connectors , new T joiners , new hoses , plus make up pipe adapters for the master cylinder - a messy business.
I Believe copper alloy brake pipe tubing is available in the UK , they add a element into the copper to alleviate the fatigue problem .
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10th Mar 2017, 09:38 PM #39Most Valued Member
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Hi Mike, I'd check with the local RTA office to find the legalities of using the copper tube. You might have to put in extra supports to stop it vibrating/work hardening to get it through.
To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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11th Mar 2017, 11:36 AM #40
Pipes
The stuff I need is ' cunifer ' brake pipe tubing, it's 90% copper and 10% nickel . Apparently not available here . But possibly I can get some in from the UK . I did use plain copper brake tubing on a vehicle I had many years ago, I never had any problem with it . Plain copper brake pipe is not available any more
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13th Mar 2017, 11:33 PM #41
The British were rated top in the engineering field in the 1940's but whoever made these precision ground pins must have had a late night out . They are nominal 9/16" but : one has a taper over 2.5" length from .5625" down to .5585", the other one is .558" from end to end . These are the driveline Layrub joint pins .
bolts.jpg
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14th Mar 2017, 12:14 AM #42
"cu-ni-fer" also has iron in it.... (see also https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cupronickel)
Copper-Nickel tubing may be available from
Copper Nickel Alloys - Austral Wright Metals
or
Copper Nickel Press Fit Pipe and Fittings - MEI or
BRAKE TUBING and Hardware
I easily found several US suppliers as well, just looking for information on it, even on eBay!
Be aware that it may be silver not copper colour.
Also: BrakeQuip call it "Eazybend" - that might help chasing it down too.
Cunifer Tubing | BrakeQuip
Their Australian distributors may be able to get it for you: Brake Hose Manufacturing Systems, BrakeQuip AustraliaCheers, Joe
retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....
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16th Mar 2017, 08:11 PM #43
Ah the joys of cleaning up old rusty parts. I have tried just about every method in previous restorations . Molasses comes up No. 1 for me , it's cheap , non toxic and it works very effectively. The 14" brake drums cleaned up nicely . The hydraulic brake cylinders , the 1 1/8" fronts are in good cond. but the 1.5" rears will probably need sleeving. Stainless is normally used for the sleeve . The original brake linings on the shoes are the old woven type linings , riveted on, I think brake lining technology has gone ahead and something better will be fitted. The big rear axle is a full floating design, where the load/driving torque is carried on the axle housing itself - if a broken half shaft occurs, the wheel stays in place . Other designs allow the wheel to come off if a axle breaks , I recall seeing a F100 on the roadside with its rear wheel hanging out about 2 feet with the broken half shaft still attached !
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17th Mar 2017, 02:30 AM #44
Just remember not to clean rusty spring steel with molasses. I can't recall the chemisty, but the chelating process changes something in the hardening of spring steel. It won't spring any more..... At least that's what happens to some springs. Use a redundant sample for testing. Maybe it has to do with alloying of some spring steels.
Cheers, Joe
retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....
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18th Mar 2017, 07:37 PM #45
I spent a few hours today removing the studs in the block, i managed to get two of them out . Patience is needed and lots of it. The stud remover I picked up cheap years ago, the problem with it is, the studs are just too small for the teeth to grab onto . I fiddled and got 2 studs out but I need to find a better stud remover ( suggestions welcome ) . The PB blaster is excellent , I doubt I could have moved the studs without it .I Also heated up the studs near the deck , the PB blaster really penetrates well . Even after all that , I had to use a length of pipe on the stud remover .
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