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Thread: Furnace build
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15th Nov 2014, 11:38 PM #16
Depends on how i mold them. I think if i make them flat as above i won't need pressure once the mold is up to temp. I would like do them with the feed on the edge however, so i can mold in the bearing registers etc and the feed is on the edge so any roughness left from cutting the riser off ends up covered in rubber. This way i will probably set up an extended steel riser and make a steel plunger and use a fly press or arbor press.....
I was looking into ceracote to protect the dies but i think the hi-temp version is only good for 700C, not enough for full temp ally. My other thought was the spray on graphite lubricant, although once the mold gets hot the propellant may ignite.....
BTW they are linisher contact wheel hubs.....
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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17th Nov 2014, 10:21 AM #17
How did you find the chips?? I was under the impression that they weren't a viable source due to the amount of surface area in comparison to the small amount of material. This leading to more slag than good casting material.
…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
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17th Nov 2014, 10:36 AM #18
Hi Dale,
I found the chips under the lathe.......
I had heard that chips were not so good due to the large surface area and its potential for oxidizing. My mate that built the furnace suggested trying them and just making sure I had a good reducing flame. It seemed to work fine, although how it would go with another fuel is anyone's guess.
These guys can forge weld without flux in a reducing atmosphere gas forge, pretty damn good evidence of just how little free oxygen is left in the forge with these burners tuned correctly.
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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17th Nov 2014, 04:42 PM #19
I meant how did you find using them not where did you find them
Are these more grinder wheels your making? The previous one you outsourced the casting yeah?…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
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17th Nov 2014, 10:21 PM #20
Yeah i had 20 cast, the larger ones at considerable cost. I'm not so keen on making any more 14" wheels, if i do i will probably pay the price to get them cast again. The smaller wheels are not so bad, but i really want to get into die casting to cut the machining down. From the sand cast, mine or the foundries, i have had to machine 100% of the surfaces as they are too rough and not perfectly flat/round so i have to balance them. 100% machined means they are balanced perfectly, but of course takes time.
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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19th Nov 2014, 09:30 PM #211915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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26th Nov 2014, 06:02 PM #22New Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2011
- Location
- bankestown, NSW
- Posts
- 8
Serrated rubber wheel , How do you Do It?
Hello Ewan
Nice project building the furnace. Good to see your recycling of metals from your lathe/mills/shapers goes towards new toys and tools.
Q. How do you go about creating / moulding the rubber and serrations onto your fresh machined metal wheel.
Cheers Eka
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26th Nov 2014, 06:18 PM #23
just skimmed through this coming back to read fully. After seeing the video of the rubber torture this is one to follow.
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26th Nov 2014, 10:06 PM #24
Thanks guys.
The rubber is slotted on the mill with a dividing head. It's a bit of a pain to do but once you get the RPM's and feed right its not so bad.
Cheers,
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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27th Nov 2014, 10:25 AM #25New Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2011
- Location
- bankestown, NSW
- Posts
- 8
Ewan
Can you elaborate how you get the rubber onto the machined aluminium.
Do you bond it , glue it or mould from raw materials?.
Reason being i have some old wheels that i would like re rubber and you method appears do-able in the home workshop.
Cheers Eka
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27th Nov 2014, 10:47 AM #26
The rubber is cast on. The wheel goes in a large wgg ring and the rubber mixed and poured in around it and set. Later turned etc. Sounds easy but not as much as you think
…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
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27th Nov 2014, 11:45 PM #27
Dale has it...but there are a number of tricks that i will not post on an open forum.
The other issue for one offs is you need to using a bonding agent to get the rubber to stick and whilst you only need a tiny bit you need to buy a certain amount and it is not cheap, plus it is a DG so shipping is not cheap.....
Once it is on you then have to machine it.....depending on the rubber this can be a nightmare, soft rubber would rather push out of the way than be cut, even with the sharpest of tooling.
It is then best to grind the rubber concentric with the bearings.....
It may sound easy but it's not. I've now done about 35 wheels, and still don't have it 100% right.1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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8th Apr 2015, 03:24 PM #28
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9th Apr 2015, 12:20 PM #29
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