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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Tasmania
    Age
    72
    Posts
    6

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    Thanks for the info,I too have height to take into account,I think about 2.4m where I plan to set the mill.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Oakleigh, Victoria
    Posts
    55

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    Quote Originally Posted by bclare View Post
    Thanks for the info,I too have height to take into account,I think about 2.4m where I plan to set the mill.
    I can get some measurements tonight when I get home.

    You need a bit more headroom above the head to extract the drawbar.

    In my old workshop I couldn't use the full Z as the motor housing would hit the ceiling.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    64
    Posts
    221

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    OK, visited H&F and saw both machines. The HM46 is pretty familiar as it the small brother to my HM48, but only in table size and a few other bits and pieces. The Optimum was, as I suspected, a nice looking machine, well finished and neat. It was, however, noticeably smaller in size; the tables are the same size, but the base, head and column are quite a bit 'lighter' than the HM46. The column on the Optimum measures around 130 x 110, while the HM46 is 190 x 140 (it tapers down, but probably finishes at around the same size as the Optimum is for the full length). Not sure about the official spec sheet, but the spindle to table distance on the HM46 looked much bigger than the Optimum (which is important for big work items, and/or if you are mounting rotary tables and such bulky things on the table; you need the height to ensure you can get the tool in).
    The bloke in the shop, who I know, but he is a salesman....said the Optimum is a better built machine, but only really suitable for light work (brass, aluminium, for model builders etc), whereas, he considered the HM46 to be capable of more aggressive cutting in harder materials (like mild steel!).
    The height of the Optimum is 1220mm at full Z, and you would need to add another 100 to 150mm for the draw bar. The height of the HM46 is 1520 at full Z, and I would add another 150mm for the draw bar. To all this you would need to add the height of your stand.
    The draw bar in the Optimum is shorter than the HM46. Which is not terribly important, but it does tell you something about the relative size of the head (gear box) on the two machines.
    As to the base size and bolt holes, I have attached a sketch in pdf. Let me know if it does not open OK. Bit hard to measure the bolt holes when they are in situ and bolted down, so I would wait to drill any mounting holes until you can mark them off the base one you have it on top of your stand.
    The H&F bloke confirmed their next sale will be mid March. Yes, they ship to Tassie.
    And I agree with those that have pointed out cheaper sources of DRO's. Good suggestions.
    I hope this helps.
    Cheers, Tony
    Mill machine bases V1.pdf

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Tasmania
    Age
    72
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Thanks Tony,pdf opened ok,this info is very helpful as well as the tip about their next sale,I am currently french polishing the parts of a long case clock I am building so mid march should work out well.Thanks again for your effort and info and to the other people who have provided suggestions on dro's,etc.Cheers, Bill.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Terang Vic
    Posts
    5

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    I know this thread is a couple of months old, but I thought I would add my experience with Hafco gear. I have a HM-47 and AL-336.

    When I dismantled the HM47 and placed the saddle on the surface plate it rocked and I could get 0.3mm feeler gauge under 1 corner, I have not fixed anything yet but what I found so far is there is not a flat surface on the machine - no wonder it does not cut straight.

    The AL336 has not been without its issues either, it had the motor replaced twice under warranty and still keeps failing, taking out the start capacitor. I have run the lathe now for a while with the start cap disconnected until I decide if I replace the motor with a DC unit.

    cheers
    Warren

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    64
    Posts
    221

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    Warren interesting feedback. I've go the HM48, which s structurally the same as the HM47. Mine has done a lot of work and has its limitations but I haven't found the table to be not flat (or at least, not using a straight edge, and also gauging from long cuts). Your 0.3mm out is a bit grim. Mine makes more bearing and gearbox noise than I think it should, particularly compared to my GHD32 drill with similar head, but so far it has happily chugged away making swarf for the last 3 years or so. I might get a nasty surprise one day!
    When I search the web and the various forums, I find a real mix of experiences with these mills (and the H&F lathes) - some have had a lot of problems, while others are happy to recommend them. The quality seems to be very variable and you can be unlucky. It appears I have been lucky and therefore happy to recommend them, but with some caveats - they are a budget machine, they have limitations, they often need some adjustment and mods 'out of the box', and they are the wrong choice if you use them every day all day to make your living. Also, and as a generalisation, the electrics seem to be a weak point on a lot of the Chinese machines. I have a AL330A which really has done a lot of work in the 10 years since I bought it - I've had to replace oil, oil seals and the motor caps twice over that period. Re the motor caps, depending on how you use your machine, there is lot of starting and stopping, this puts a fair load on the motor and capacitor; they do not last forever under heavy service, but the original ones were rubbish and didn't last long. I now use German made caps and that helps. The next time, I am seriously thinking of going 3 phase motor with a VSD conversion. Interesting you run yours without the start cap - I guess you have to give it a push in the right direction to get it going - not ideal. Motor failure is more uncommon - you seem to have had a real bad run.
    In summary, I wish I could afford a big name quality machine, but I cant, so I make the Chinese ones work as best they can and live with the limitations. (BTW, I have a couple of Hercus 9" lathes, which are a nice little machine, but don't give the grunt or capacity I often need, so I tend to use the AL330 mostly).
    I wonder how the original thread poster (Bill) went with his purchase?
    Cheers, Tony

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Terang Vic
    Posts
    5

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    I replaced my Sheraton 9" with the AL336, the Sheraton is a nice machine and did a LOT of work while I was rebuilding my car, but I wanted something bigger. My last start cap lasted a week and at $60 each not cheap. I knew as soon as I turned the lathe on but caps destroy pretty quick if the start switch does not disengage. I am thinking of either an external (electronic) start switch or DC motor swap. It has been working ok for a few months without a start cap, just a bit slow on the startup.

    I know the mill table is not flat but is is less than 0.3, with a DTI on the column I get 0.02mm lift (Y axis) when the table is moved 2/3 way forward, this is the Y ways not straight. X axis is about 0.05mm tilt.

    The 0.3mm is the saddle.

    I do plan on fixing it. I think once properly scraped in it should be a reasonable machine.

    My father was a toolmaker with his own business so I had access to a Colchester lathe Bridgeport and Cincinnati mills when I was younger. I too wish I could afford these. I remember my dad buying a new moulding machine that was made in China he was very dubious of the quality to start with but once they had fixed it, it ended up being a good machine.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    64
    Posts
    221

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    Thanks for explaining the issues with the mill more clearly. Once fettled and fixed it should give good service.
    Ah yes, if the motor centrifugal switch does not disconnect the capacitor, then either the cap or the second winding burns out. Nasty. I have a very old saw bench with a dodgy switch in the motor that I just couldn't seem to fix enough for 100% reliable operation, so I put an external push button switch in, which I push in when I start the motor, and release when the motor gets away and nearly up to speed. Pretty rough old solution, but has worked fine for the last 20 years!! When a mate comes over to use the saw, you should see the look on their face when I tell them how to start the thing.
    If you ever change the motor over (DC option - interesting idea; I was thinking 3 phase and VSD), it would certainly be of interest to other forum members (and me).
    Cheers, Tony

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Hobart, Australia
    Age
    38
    Posts
    24

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    FYI for the OP, not sure where abouts in Tassie you are but "Mods For Rods" opened up not too long ago in Sorell and is stocking abit of Hafco gear, They dont seem to have a website but if you google Mods for rods Sorell you get their details, they are inside Nicks hobby shop.

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