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  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    - then I realised I had the Southbend renovation manual and it covers everything in detail. I also had a new set of felt wipers and wicks.
    Is that a PDF version of the manual Bob? I ordered a kit from eBay which includes the apron wicks, wipers and a sump gasket.

    Quote Originally Posted by Kilohertz View Post
    When reassembling the worm drive and clutch gear, the worm needs to be rotated so that the "thin" part of the thread will engage the clutch gear as it slides in from the left back into the worm housing....
    Thanks for the tip. Will keep that in mind when reassembling.
    Chris

  2. #32
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kilohertz View Post
    When reassembling the worm drive and clutch gear, the worm needs to be rotated so that the "thin" part of the thread will engage the clutch gear as it slides in from the left back into the worm housing. For the key, retaining collar and roll pin, once the worm is back in place, I screwed on the collar and used a pin punch in the hole to help wind it back to position. Then slide in the key and tapped it until it just lined up with the holes, put the pin punch back thru all 3 holes and wiggled to ensure it was centered, then I found a socket that just snugly fits inside the worm, where the lead screw would normally go, to hold the key firmly in place, then tapped the roll pin back in. NB Don't forget the put the wick back in the slot at the bottom of the worm housing if it came out during cleaning, before you assemble the worm drive or you'll be getting more practice at all of the above. (yes, I got to do it twice).
    The renovation manual suggests putting the pin into the key and then pushing the pin and key into the slot/pin hole using a small G-clamp, I used a small long nose multi grip tool with some thin Al wrapped around the ends of the nose.

    BTW, if you have one, wicks and wipers can be cleaned really well using an ultrasonic cleaner. I used 2, 5 minute baths of turps, 5 mins in meths, 5 mins in detergent plus water and the 5 mins in water and they come out like new.

  3. #33
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    Is that a PDF version of the manual Bob? I ordered a kit from eBay which includes the apron wicks, wipers and a sump gasket.
    Sorry its paper.

  4. #34
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    Nov 2018
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    Slightly left of Vernon, BC
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    Well this has me confused, I have these two 260 machines, and one speed plate indicates 60-2000RPM, the other says 50-1680 RPM so I dug into it today to try to figure out what the difference is. I measured all the pulleys, and they all measure the same one each machine, drive pulleys and the 2, 4 position pulleys, all the same. The motor RPM is different by 45 RPM but that isn't enough to make that much difference, is it?

    Anyone have any idea how they generate the different speed ranges? The plates even have different part numbers.

    Thanks!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #35
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kilohertz View Post
    Well this has me confused, I have these two 260 machines, and one speed plate indicates 60-2000RPM, the other says 50-1680 RPM so I dug into it today to try to figure out what the difference is. I measured all the pulleys, and they all measure the same one each machine, drive pulleys and the 2, 4 position pulleys, all the same. The motor RPM is different by 45 RPM but that isn't enough to make that much difference, is it?

    Anyone have any idea how they generate the different speed ranges? The plates even have different part numbers.

    Thanks!

    50 and 60Hz models?

  6. #36
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    Slightly left of Vernon, BC
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    50 and 60Hz models?
    I thought that as well, one plate is marked 60Hz, the other isn't marked at all, both motors are 60Hz, they both came out of the same school, everything in Canada has been 60Hz since day one. These are late 80's, actually the AT, 19995 is 1991 as I found the original final inspection report in an unopened envelope yesterday...how cool is that?

    Cheers

    PS, once I get the AT machine back together I will put an optical tach on both and check if they are really producing the indicated RPM.

  7. #37
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kilohertz View Post
    I thought that as well, one plate is marked 60Hz, the other isn't marked at all
    Is the one marked 60Hz the one with the 60 -2000 rpm range?

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Is the one marked 60Hz the one with the 60 -2000 rpm range?
    Yes

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kilohertz View Post
    Yes
    Well there is your answer, 50 - 1680 times 6/5 equals 60 - 2016, so you have 50Hz and a 60Hz versions of the speed indicator plates.

  10. #40
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    I serviced my apron today. There was a bit of crap in there, but all the gears were well lubricated. So I didn't bother removing any parts except for the clutch. I gave it all a good wash with kerosene and reassembled it.

    Since the wicks are obviously doing their job I didn't bother replacing them. Now I have a set of wipers & wicks on the way that I don't need.

    Did any of you guys find flat spots on the clutch discs (see pic)? The clutch is working well and the flats don't appear to be from wear, because the marks go across the metal as if they were created on a bench grinder.
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    Chris

  11. #41
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    No flat spots on my half discs.

    Mine had marginally more crud than yours around the clutch, and the wick that runs inside on the red line held a lot of gooey grey stuff.
    apron-after.jpg

  12. #42
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    Thanks Bob. On reflection, I don't think the flats make any difference as the half-discs just push the clutch shoes outwards. The end of the wick you refer to was quite frayed on mine, but seems to be doing its job.
    Chris

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ropetangler View Post
    Well there is your answer, 50 - 1680 times 6/5 equals 60 - 2016, so you have 50Hz and a 60Hz versions of the speed indicator plates.
    Interesting. I would have thought that the motors would be different to keep the spindle RPM the same as even in my machines the motor RPM are different even though they are both 60Hz models. What is the line freq in Australia? I would be curious to know what the forum readers plates' speed range are indicated.

    Here are my motor name plates. Do these look original, roughly the same as in your machines?

    Cheers
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  14. #44
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    Bob, Chris your aprons look WAY better than mine did, obviously had never been in a school.

    Good job on the cleanup. My wick was frayed at the bottom as well, no flats on the disks.

    Cheers

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kilohertz View Post
    Interesting. I would have thought that the motors would be different to keep the spindle RPM the same as even in my machines the motor RPM are different even though they are both 60Hz models. What is the line freq in Australia? I would be curious to know what the forum readers plates' speed range are indicated.

    Here are my motor name plates. Do these look original, roughly the same as in your machines?

    Cheers
    Line frequency in Australia is 50Hz, having said that the plates on your motors do not make sense to me. For 60 Hz and a 4 pole motor, the theoretical speed would be 1800 rpm if there was no slip between magnetic fields. There is always slip, and it will increase with load, which will reduce the rpm slightly, but not to the extent shown on your motor plate. It looks to me that the speeds of your motors would be more akin to a line frequency of 50Hz, rather than 60Hz, so perhaps there was a mistake made when the plates were marked.
    I would guess that for a 4 pole 60 Hz induction motor, the speed would be something like 1710rpm or thereabouts.

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