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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Griffith NSW
    Posts
    435

    Default

    There is a standard, but like any standard, there is no law saying that one has to use it. This has all the DIN standards for all the ER collet series' that are out there, all you could ever want to know about ER collets. Just make sure that you stick to nuts that comply with that standard when youre buying and youll be fine.

    I made a nut for my ER40 collet chuck for the lathe spindle, but it employed a thread that was larger than the standard defined item. I did it for a few reasons, one I wanted to have a super rigid setup for ploughing metal off with vigour and two, I just wanted to have a crack at making one. I also wanted the nose of the nut to be devoid of any serrated features like the usual castellations for a collet spanner because...well...just because. All said and done, works well.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    Scott, did you attach the DIN standard for the Collets??
    I've purchased a set of ER25 plus a few loose ones and they were different. Have attached a pic to prove it.
    collets 1.jpg
    I've also made a Collet Chuck to suit the 25's , for a 7 X 12 mini lathe, I ended up giving It to another member on here.
    If I can do it anyone can
    Collet Chuck.JPG
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    64
    Posts
    221

    Default

    Kryn, click on the 'this' word in Scott's post ("This has all the DIN standards for all the ER collet series") and it takes you to a ER spec sheet.
    All my ER collets look like the one on the left of your photo.
    Standards are good if everyone follow them

    Nice job on the collet chuck - it has now moved up my 'to do' list!
    Tony

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    1,105

    Default

    You also get these now from china, would still need a back plate to screw onto your chuck though. Not sure if they are good value vs making your own?

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ER-32-Co...0AAOSw43haRa8F

  5. #20
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sth Gippsland Vic
    Posts
    130

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Com_VC View Post
    Not sure if they are good value vs making your own?
    It looks good value to me the beginner when it comes to metal turning . Thanks!
    I haven't tackled a thread yet let alone an internal one .


    Rob

  6. #21
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    Thanks Tony, the print on my laptop is very small and with Scotts thread, I couldn't distinguish any difference in the wording.
    If you have a flange drive plate on your lathe, mark the chuck and drive plate to ensure that it goes back in the same spot each time, especialy on the Chinese lathes. Even though I had a locating ring machined into the back of the chuck, it was still out unless it was back in the same spot. Took me ages to work out what was going wrong.

    Com VC I'd be a bit dubious about getting one as trying to set it up on a threaded plate could be a hair tearing situation.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sth Gippsland Vic
    Posts
    130

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post

    trying to set it up on a threaded plate could be a hair tearing situation.
    Kryn
    What is the hard part about that Kryn? Getting it true ?

    Rob

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    1,105

    Default

    Isn't it the same process as mounting a new 3/4 jaw chuck on a new back plate? That chuck has a spigot, so I assume screw on back plate to lathe, machine the back plate to create a spigot to the same diameter of chuck, mark out holes and drill.

    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    Com VC I'd be a bit dubious about getting one as trying to set it up on a threaded plate could be a hair tearing situation.
    Kryn

  9. #24
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    When I had my brothers 7X12, the chuck was only correct in one place, it took me ages to work out what was going on. I'm only going from what has happened to me.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Cairns, Q
    Posts
    666

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    I've purchased a set of ER25 plus a few loose ones and they were different. Have attached a pic to prove it.
    collets 1.jpg
    Kryn
    Hi Kryn,

    I have come across these odd, non standard collets on the right of your photo before. In 2011 I was looking for a cheap set of ER25 collets and saw a set of "ER25 style" collets advertised. On querying the vendor he advised that, while they worked in the same way as the ERs they were a cheaper alternative, and were not interchangeable with the genuine ERs. I have never been able to identify what they actually were - maybe some Chinese domestic standard? They did not appear in the old Shopswarf website's table of standard collet dimensions for collet identification.

    Shopswarf Index

    The Shopswarf website has now disappeared from the internet but I was able to find an archived copy. (See link to the site index above). It is well worth bookmarking for future reference if you do not have it already. There is a lot of useful information there.

    Frank.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    Thanks for thee link Frank, looks to be a user friendly site as well.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

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