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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Doing a clean up of a Hercus 260 ex NSW High School. Not wanting do do a complete strip at this stage but cleaned up nicely with acetone / thinners on a rag. (Good trick for freshening up old stained surfaces but can't leave the rag in the same place for long) Found a quick dry White Knights spray can at Bunnings called 'Cove' in satin which matches the original light olive colour pretty well. I'm using it for the worst of the chipped and marked surfaces. Cheers - Davo

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    239

    Default A few new photos

    I have not had a great deal of time lately to get much more work done on the lathes but i have been setting up the electrical on the metric lathe with a few upgrades and thought that I would put a couple of photos up of the 1" spacer blocks.
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  3. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    239

    Default

    So I finally found some time to get more painting done, I have now put the first coat of paint on the beds and tailstocks and have prepped a few other bits and pieces. Hopefully in a couple of weeks I will have a few more photos of the lathes being reassembled.
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  4. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    239

    Default

    Getting the beds back on the cabinets.
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  5. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    239

    Default

    So I got around to reassembling the gearboxes for the lathes, replaced the bushes as everything else looked quite good in there, cleaned up the lead screws and also reassembled the headstock on the long bed.
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  6. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
    Posts
    6,458

    Default

    Superb work Steve. Well done.

    Is there any chance of a photo of the can of paint and its label? I really do need to tackle the task of painting my pedestal bases and looking at your progress makes me very uncomfortable with the absence of mine.

    Bob.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    239

    Default

    Thank you Bob

    The paint that I used was Solver brand, I took a part in to be matched and it looked good as a small dot on the piece but the problem that I found with it was that after the first coat it looked more like Army green so I ended up putting some cream in to it to soften it up so it is kind of a home custom colour, I think that Wattyl own Solver as I am unsure whether you can buy that brand in other states. The best thing to do is take a part in with you that has good paint on it and leave it with them for a few days so they can match it properly , I have normally found the best paint to be under the motor on the mounting plate. It amazes me how you can go to different paint shops and some people will bend over backwards for you and others just can not be bothered helping you and they will look through the book and find something close. That paint is a satin finish.
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  8. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    New South Wales
    Posts
    45

    Default

    Solver paints are sold in NSW. Look for a "Wattyl Trade Center". Wattyl used to be an Australian brand until the 1990s, and was listed on the Australian Stock Exchange for a while, since then it was bought by new owners in the United States.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    New South Wales
    Posts
    45

    Default

    Replying to myself...

    Back in 2009:

    Bunnings gives Wattyl the big brush-off

    Then in 2010, Wattyl was taken over by raider Valspar Corporation of the United States, paying $1.30 per share (share price down from $3 - $4 earlier, thanks for your limited support Bunnings).

    Wattyl, spurned by Bunnings, then got a lift from Masters Hardware, but more recently we know what happened to Masters.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
    Posts
    6,458

    Default

    Thank you for the can label photos Steve.

    There is a Solver retail outlet close by so I will try my luck armed with prints of the labels. Who knows, they might get closer than the toffee apple gloss green Bunnings served up courtesy of their whizzo computer scanning.

    Satin finish has always been my so far elusive goal. I had a go with matting agent mixed into some gloss spraying enamel I'd had mixed years ago and the results were pretty underwhelming, more like a textured finish you'd apply to cement render, so a repeatable satin paint straight from the can would be a godsend.

    I will let you know how I get on.

    Bob.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Dunsborough WA
    Posts
    28

    Default

    Re Paint,
    I restored a Model A a few yeas back and found that killrust colourbond colour, wilderness was a very close match to the original, I did post some photos on the project, not sure if they are still available as it was at least 4 years ago.

    Michael

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    near Warragul, Victoria
    Posts
    3,718

    Default

    There is a caveat with Killrust, it does not like being painted over other type industrial paints and vice versa . If you apply killrust over say industrial spraying enamel, the result is a bubbled mess . I think it's the solvent base that's the problem. Killrust was using metho as a solvent base but they changed the formula to something else so its best to check it out before proceeding. To flatten enamel, they use a fine silica powder . You can buy the silica from home potting suppliers , people that make the garden pots use it. The spick and span rebuilds look great but the way I use my lathes, the new shiny look would last about a week before the grime and oil ruined everything ! back to square one !

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Dunsborough WA
    Posts
    28

    Default

    Good point on the paint, at least the colour can be made up with other paint brands.

    In my case most of the old paint was removed the sections that still had the original paint did not react at all, I used the spray cans so that may have been a factor.

    Michael

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    239

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Anorak Bob View Post
    Thank you for the can label photos Steve.

    There is a Solver retail outlet close by so I will try my luck armed with prints of the labels. Who knows, they might get closer than the toffee apple gloss green Bunnings served up courtesy of their whizzo computer scanning.

    Satin finish has always been my so far elusive goal. I had a go with matting agent mixed into some gloss spraying enamel I'd had mixed years ago and the results were pretty underwhelming, more like a textured finish you'd apply to cement render, so a repeatable satin paint straight from the can would be a godsend.

    I will let you know how I get on.

    Bob.
    Don't forget to buy a small pot of cream paint as you will want to tone it down a touch, i did not put a lot in, really I just stirred the pot that i had already and dropped the stirrer into the green paint, you can just tone it to your liking, my lathes have been all brushed and rolled and that seems to give off the right amount of flattness to the paint and you can also use the cream to paint the background of the Hercus on the bed, even with that I mixed some yellow into it out of a model paint tin just to give it the original look.

    Good luck with the repaint of your lathe Bob, it is a bigger job than you expect it to be but it is rewarding and a great time to clean everythingup and change parts and readjust it all and change felts and know that everything is clean and fresh to start with again.

    Steve

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
    Posts
    6,458

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by VK6BHY View Post
    Re Paint,
    I restored a Model A a few yeas back and found that killrust colourbond colour, wilderness was a very close match to the original, I did post some photos on the project, not sure if they are still available as it was at least 4 years ago.

    Michael
    Michael,

    I bought a rattle can of Wilderness some time back when I was making a switch enclosure for my No. T&C grinder. The colour was considerably lighter than the grinder's murky green so I ended up using some probably ten year old spraying enamel instead. The colour was close but still a bit too clean looking compared to the original paint. Whilst I had strained the paint before spraying, enough grit and muck in it remained to give it a "satinish" finish.
    //metalworkforums.com/f65/t1994...37#post1909437 It's a shame Wilderness isn't a bit darker. Having a spray can beats fooling around with a spray gun for small bits and pieces.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tinkerer77 View Post
    Don't forget to buy a small pot of cream paint as you will want to tone it down a touch, i did not put a lot in, really I just stirred the pot that i had already and dropped the stirrer into the green paint, you can just tone it to your liking, my lathes have been all brushed and rolled and that seems to give off the right amount of flattness to the paint and you can also use the cream to paint the background of the Hercus on the bed, even with that I mixed some yellow into it out of a model paint tin just to give it the original look.

    Good luck with the repaint of your lathe Bob, it is a bigger job than you expect it to be but it is rewarding and a great time to clean everythingup and change parts and readjust it all and change felts and know that everything is clean and fresh to start with again.

    Steve
    I am under no illusions Steve.

    I take my hat off to anyone prepared to completely dismantle a machine and carefully repaint it. Not too long ago I repainted a machine vice. I would have spent a total of probably 8 solid hours preparing the vice components for painting. Filling, sanding and priming over and over again until I had the thing in a state approximating it's original new condition prior to painting. I would run out of time if I tried to repaint my shed's worth of machines in a similar fashion.

    Bob
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