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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Adelaide
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    239

    Default

    I would definitely look at spraypainting the next machine that i do but I am quite happy with how the brush and roller finishes came out and I think thats how i still kept the flatness to the paint, it is quite a bit more finicky than spraying though but then spraying needs everything masked up, that vice looks too good to be used Bob, I have done the same thing with the lathes with bogging up all the nicks and dents, I know the first time I use them they are going to get a bit scratched up but that's why we have them.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
    Posts
    6,458

    Default

    Steve,

    The vice had seen some use and abuse before Michael found and sent it to me. //metalworkforums.com/f65/t1936...99#post1853699

    I owed it to Michael to paint the thing. Sadly, but just only a bit, the colour doesn't match that of the mill. If I could fiddle with the White Knight enamel a bit more to match the mill I'd probably give the vice an overcoat while I was painting the mill's head.

    Bob.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    119

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by morrisman View Post
    There is a caveat with Killrust, it does not like being painted over other type industrial paints and vice versa . If you apply killrust over say industrial spraying enamel, the result is a bubbled mess . I think it's the solvent base that's the problem. Killrust was using metho as a solvent base but they changed the formula to something else so its best to check it out before proceeding. To flatten enamel, they use a fine silica powder . You can buy the silica from home potting suppliers , people that make the garden pots use it. The spick and span rebuilds look great but the way I use my lathes, the new shiny look would last about a week before the grime and oil ruined everything ! back to square one !
    Thanks for this information. I'd sprayed a grinder a while back and thought bubbles were a result of my poor prep. By the way do you know if a primer (ie matte grey) makes a difference before the killrust top coat(s)?


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    239

    Default A little more progress

    So I have been a bit busy with other things in life but have found a bit of time to get a few more bits and pieces done, I have machined up the M69 ball bearing countershaft yoke I bought off Mal to convert the metric lathe over and also machined up the M64 bearing housings and M67 bearing caps. I will post some photos of them a bit later, I have to make up jigs to do these jobs and there is no real quick process to it but the jigs definitely helped, the jig for the bearing housings have all of the holes pre drilled at the correct angles and positions but the drills need to be changed for every job but it still rather quick and keeps everything square,I have had to make up all different size spacers for the drive pulleys so that I have the option of swapping them around as needed if i want the slower range so there has been a bit of thought and measuring and then trying to keep the factory look so it doesn't look like a bodge job.
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  5. #35
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    239

    Default A few more photos

    I have attached a few more photos of the bearing housings and caps and the jig that I used to drill all of the holes and a couple of the set up on the lathe
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  6. #36
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    239

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    I thought that I would put some photos up of the motor adaptor plate that I made up as well, the motor sat way to low originally so I slotted out some 30mm aluminium plate to raise it up to clear the adjustment brackets and get it sitting in a nicer position and give it a bit more adjustment every way.
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  7. #37
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
    Posts
    6,458

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tinkerer77 View Post
    I have attached a few more photos of the bearing housings and caps and the jig that I used to drill all of the holes and a couple of the set up on the lathe
    Hello Steve,

    Impressive work as usual.

    I replaced the open bearings on my 9's countershaft with sealed bearings. Two less oiling points to worry about. The cups are still there as a reminder of messier times.

    Bob.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    239

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    Thanks Bob, it has been quite good to play around making jigs and parts again since I don't get to do a lot of machining these days as I work in maintenance and not a machine shop, I am extremely happy with how it is coming along.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Adelaide
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    239

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    Thought that I would put up a couple of before and after shots of the long bed, I will put a couple up of the metric lathe a bit later.
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  10. #40
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    257

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    Looking great!

    Mind if I ask what process you used to take off the surface rust and get the surfaces back to a nice clean metal?

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    239

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hornetb View Post
    Looking great!

    Mind if I ask what process you used to take off the surface rust and get the surfaces back to a nice clean metal?
    Thank you Hornetb

    I had the beds reground through Mal so there was no cleaning there thankfully, the rest of the cast iron parts I cleaned with scotchbright and WD40 on another lathe, the cast comes up very nicely doing it that way, it is always handy having another lathe or a friend with one that you can use for cleaning those parts, just kerosene or other parts wash don't even touch that inground dirt, I think that people using engine oil instead of hydraulic oil cause a lot of the dirt build up on cast parts. I was very very tempted to use the wire wheel on the parts but I didn't want to lose the original look and machining marks so the scotchbright really worked a treat, it's amazing how clean they come up and how much dirt comes off of them.

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    239

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    I have now mounted the motor on the metric lathe and it is finally running, I ended up making up some feet for the motor so I could get into the position that I wanted it to be in, took a little bit of measuring and moving it around and working out the height it needed to be in for the double row pulley, I think it is a 260 motor pulley because it is much bigger than the other 9" lathe so it needed to sit higher to clear the cover.
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