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Results 1 to 10 of 10
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31st Jan 2018, 03:26 PM #1
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Upgrading trailer hitch to electric brakes - what to do about base plate
I'm upgrading my trailer project to electric brakes and therefore I need a new hitch.
My question is regarding the hitch base plate, as obviously the electric base plate is larger.
I see my options as:
- remove old base plate by grinding/cutting and weld new one on
- weld new base plate on top of old one with a piece of flat inserted in the gap
- cut the rear of the new base plate and weld it behind the existing base plate.
What is the preferred option and what have others done in the past, I'm leaning towards removing the old one and welding the new one on??
hitch base plate.jpg
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31st Jan 2018, 07:22 PM #2
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Grind the weld out of the rear of the current plate, cut the necessary length off the new plate and weld that on.
It will take a deal of time to remove the original plate as it will be welded inside the V of the draw bar as well as the outside.
Welding the new plate on top of the old one just makes it look clumsy.
Hooroo
John
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31st Jan 2018, 07:24 PM #3
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Why do you need to change the hitch?? It has nothing to do with braking. Unless you've upgraded the suspension to take a heavier load, which would then possibly require the replacement if the old hitch was rated at 1,000 kg or there abouts.
Asking to be able to give the best possible advise, would be best to show photos of old coupling and new coupling. Have a long experience in trailer repair and manufacturing.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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31st Jan 2018, 09:23 PM #4
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I'm going from a 700kg axle/spring setup with a basic 3 bolt hitch to a 1400kg axle/spring setup with a 3500kg hitch with incorporated hand brake.
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31st Jan 2018, 10:15 PM #5
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Thanks for the information. I'd cut the plate and weld it on as per Wimmera Jacks suggestion. Make sure that the welds are of top quality, as if it has to be inspected, at any stage, there could be some comebacks.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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1st Feb 2018, 11:47 AM #6
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Thanks guys, cut and weld it is
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5th Feb 2018, 06:59 PM #7
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I'm only barely literate in trailer building.
But wasn't there some discussion recently that draw bars should not have transverse welds? As it created a HAZ which becomes a weak spot.
Would grinding out the existing one be a problem?
-russ
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5th Feb 2018, 11:13 PM #8
Russ, I was thinking the same thing, when I saw the photo.... Since there is already a HAZ now, I'd leave those welds alone and grind a little rebate on each end of the new strip, and weld the new strip to the full width of the old plate - welds and all - and only weld longitudinally on the outside and inside edges.... not a new transverse weld on each side
Cheers, Joe
retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....
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5th Feb 2018, 11:21 PM #9
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For some reason, and not sure why, but welds on coupling mounting plates don't seem to suffer from stress points at point of attachment. I used to work in a trailer hire yard, where we had someting like 30 + trailers, and not one of them had a problem there, cracked spring hangers yes, but the plates no.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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11th Feb 2018, 11:43 AM #10
The attachment point of the coupling plate does not have the flexing that the drawbar does where it goes under the front cross rail, so does not suffer the same fatigue fractures at that point.
As Kryn pointed out, welding across the main chassis rail to attach the spring hangers can create those same fractures, particularly in heavier rated trailers.
As for Bishboy's trailer (if you haven't done it yet, and even if you have this can be reference for anyone else in the future), most three bolt trailer couplings are rated around the 2000Kg mark, so there'd be no reason to change it unless you require the handbrake lever for the Electric Brakes. And I'm guessing that if it's had no brakes up until this point, it's only a single axle trailer, which you'll only increase its capacity up to around 1500Kg by adding an Electric braked axle. But if you do change it, seeing as you already have the plate, it would be a neater job, albeit a little time consuming, to remove the existing plate and replace it with the 4 bolt. The other option is to leave the old plate in place and add in a strip of 50mm x (whatever the thickness of the original plate is) flat steel across where the rear holes of the new Electric coupling is. Most of the weight carried by the attaching bolts is on the front two.Too many projects, so little time, even less money!Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. It's free and only takes 37 seconds!Doing work around the home? Wander over to our sister site, Renovate Forum, for all your renovation queries.
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