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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Bungama SA
    Age
    52
    Posts
    960

    Default Project TV entertainment unit

    Client who wields the rolling pin wants a TV unit for the new oversized TV, had a play in Sketchup come up with a design that SWMBO is happy with.
    With a 75" screen the criteria was 2500 long 500 deep by 500 high with a rear upright to bolt a adjustable TV wall bracket thingo, a top shelf under the screen for the front and center speakers and a area big enough for a decent sized HT amp plus a sub amp and two game machines... and a modern industrial chic look or whatever the hipsters call it

    Already have most of the materials, the frame will be all 50/2.5mm square tube for the legs and TV bracket frame, the two long horizontals between the legs are 50/5mm for extra strength and the standoffs/joiners will be 20/1.6mm sq. The TV wall bracket mounting plate will probably be 300x200/3mm.

    front


    rear


    with woodwork




    The wood will either be blue gum or tallow wood 30mm thick with an oil/waxed finish or pre cat lacquer, the frame with be 2 pac black or possibly a dark argent(metal grey) metallic clear over base.
    The top will be screwed up through the leg joiners and by the center supports from underneath it, the shadow style box for the amps will be screwed through from the two rear horizontals.


    The TV wall bracket we have is a double arm type that can be angled in two panes plus pulled forwards(should come near flush with the front edge)and the screen weighs 34kg.

    Can anyone foresee any problems with this design? do you think the frame will be strong enough
    ....................................................................

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,540

    Default

    The only thing that I can think of is that the span at 2.5m is significant. It may pay to mock up the bracket part and see whether it twists too much and needs a heavier section. THe wooden shelf underneath may sag a bit too with a load on so may need a reinforcing piece to stiffen but that could be a cantilever piece from the back. That would have the added advantage of making those bars a little more twist resistant.

    Michael

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Bungama SA
    Age
    52
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    960

    Default

    Yep I was thinking the same thing about the span, its 2200 (2500 is total width)so I thought by doubling the thickness to 5mm for those two stretchers... still had me worried so today I mocked up a single one at 2200 and got 5mm delfection @ 108kgs(my fat ) using a height gauge. I put the second lenght and got 1.5mm deflection.

    Im a good 3 times the weight do you reckon it would be enough safety factor?

    An extra bar under the bottom shelf is a good idea, I might mock that up too but I'll have to wait until I've made the widths up... it will have support at the bottom rear so weather it sags
    or not dunno, swmbo wants the blonde colour wood so looks like were going with the tallow wood which has good stiffness and hardness(stronger than jarrah)
    ....................................................................

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Far West Wimmera
    Age
    63
    Posts
    4,049

    Default

    That would depend on whether you are going to make a habit of sitting on it.

    Dean

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,540

    Default

    The problem is that every thing deflects - it's not a failure as such (that is, it hasn't broken) but will the other half think that it looks terrible if it sags in the middle?
    Michael

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Bungama SA
    Age
    52
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    960

    Default

    I think I might add the two extra support bars like I have for the top shelf this will decrease the span to under 800mm, plus I intend on having the HT amp(15kg) in the middle so it sits on the supports.

    Also was talking and showing the design to a friend who's a pretty cluey bugger he reckons by the time I have attached the floating box(a 30 by 450 wide slab, screwed every 150 into its rear edge)that it should stop any twisting/torquing, the only deflection may be downwards.
    ....................................................................

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    3

    Default

    That's huge Harry, but looks sturdy enough to this untrained eye.

    Doc

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Bungama SA
    Age
    52
    Posts
    960

    Default

    Update we have progress

    Started cutting


    A few 45° cuts


    They come out not to far off, picture frame clamps came in handy here


    Been a couple of months since I've needed to wield the TIG torch a bit rusty to say the least


    Flap wheel fixes everything...


    Day one dusted n done
    ....................................................................

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Bungama SA
    Age
    52
    Posts
    960

    Default

    Cut the joiner/standoff bits


    How they will go


    Welded up and mocked up with the joiners inbetween the legs


    Starting to get used to the TIG again, still getting a little undercut in corners


    Right bit of Jerry rigging leveling up to tack up the rear stretchers, yes more woodworking clamps... lucky I have a arsenal of them long ones too


    This is where I started having trouble contamination woes
    It just kept spitting crap back at the torch, ended up being my fault I didnt clean out the inside corners of the stretchers and I was hitting it with 160A+ penetrating right through the 5mm thickness bringing the crap out


    This one you can really see the contamination results, have to say high amp TIG is a lot easier
    ....................................................................

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Bungama SA
    Age
    52
    Posts
    960

    Default

    Main part of the frame is done


    Next day, cut the uprights for the TV wall bracket to mount too, hey look some metalwork clamps and more Jerry Riggin with bits of wood


    Decided to break out the glue sticks(3.2 6013's)


    Time of reckoning to test out how much deflection, just set me phone up and scribed some marks 1mm apart. Using a height gauge as a pointer filmed it with me(110Kg now)on it.
    You can see in the video it deflects about 1mm when I 1st stand on it(with a foot each side of the center uprights)and about 1/2 a mil when I bounce my weight on it.
    I think my... sorry SWMBO's TV will be safe on it


    I'll post up some more later, making the supports for the top and shadow box under it should have them welded on tomorrow hopefully
    ....................................................................

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Bungama SA
    Age
    52
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    960

    Default

    Made the top and shadow box supports


    I still seem to be getting contamination even after die grinding the inside of the rhs, dunno why but it seems to be only the 5mm rhs thats doing it? You can see it in this pic on the corners of the 1st one. Didnt have to go back and weld up any voids this time... maybe getting my TIG settings a bit better sorted.


    Thought Id add some extra thread depth for the adjustable feet, grabbed some 50x10mm flat bar and used a 42mm hole saw in the drill press... boy did that take some doing even with the big 20" 2hp JET DP bearing down on it, I think the holesaw really needed 1/2 of the teeth removed and gullets opened up for more swarf room. Had too drill about 1mm then clear the swarf with air... now everything within the vicinity of the DP is oiled up


    All threads are 5/16th, used the DP as a guide to keep me square just chucked a drill bit backwards as a guide pin and used the DP for downwards pressure. Was all good for the 1st couple but then me tapping handle thingo decided to slip... seems even brand name stuff is crapola nowdays spent the rest of the day dicking about with that sure wasnt spending another $50 again... If anyone knows where I can get a decent quality tapping handle set that doesnt cost 100's let me know(I need a small and a medium size, M10 is biggest thread Id ever use)


    Mocked up the TV wall bracket and the top and shadowbox supports, the bracket will go backwards another 3"(clamps are in the way)and it will extend forwards putting the screen just past the front most point of the legs. Bracket can move up/down, tilt and pan, push in/out damned weighs 23kg by itself, its a nice piece of kit
    ....................................................................

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Bungama SA
    Age
    52
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    960

    Default

    Not much progress in the last week or so, had to deal with problems that popped up its description is below

    Anyway got the threaded bung thingo's welded on, drilled over sized through holes for thread clearance before welding on. Havent done to much round stuff with the TIG its tricky to say the least especially welding 10mm thick to 2.5



    Shelf supports welded in place, you can see here how they'll hopefully work(albeit upside down Miss Jayne...), the table top will screw on 1st and then the shadow box will bolt upwards to the underside of the top supports(see bolts in pic) and the bottom of the shadowbox will screw from the under side through the lower supports.

    Im kicking myself now, I should have drilled all the holes with the drill press to screw the shadow box too the stretcher rails. Not looking forward to drilling 20x 6mm holes and 20x 10mm holes by hand drill in 5mm thick metal

    As it sits now, this thing is getting to heavy too move around I've been rigging up a sack truck at one end, but even this is difficult being 2.5m long in a skinny mick shed I wish my big shed was set up... 4 years and still waiting


    Started making the support backing for the TV wall bracket decided to use 10x50mm flatbar instead of a plate because I didnt want to buy a full sheet of 3mm.
    Got the flat bar cut to length and drilled the holes to mount the TV bracket too... started tapping the first one and twang went the tap snapped the bugger looks like I dont know my own strength!(using my drill press as a follower to keep it squared up)
    So off I go to get another tap, this is when I noticed a discrepancy the 1st 5/16th tap Sutton quoted a 1/4" pilot(6.35mm)and the replacement Bordo 5/16th tap quoted 6.6mm pilot. Comparing the two taps the Bordo looked like it had a much thicker center with smaller flutes the Sutton actually looked spindly compared to it... what gives?

    Got two more holes tapped and noticed my air pressure was getting a bit low after using it to clear swarf, so reached over a flicked the switch(aircomp is keeping my dust extractor company in their own little shed)to start the pump... went for about 2 seconds then squealed the belt hmmmm... all I can say is "Clisby me ol'mate of 20+years RIP".
    Drive motor was loose on its mounts which I thought might be my fault as I just serviced it, so I removed the belt and noticed the pump was locked up. I managed to free it up with some WD40 in the inlet but then it ceased again, I pulled him out from the little shed and started stripping it down to find it was free again... Huh!
    Put it back together and ran it again no worry's Ubeaut I thought until I realised it took a good 5 min to pump up, when new it took barely 1 minute I reckon it has broken a ring or something as there was a heap of metal bits in the oil I guess it was a broken ring jamming it!
    Anyway after over 20yrs service of being my most used machine he's now been replaced, just got delivered today now a proud owner of a P17 Peerless Fatboy, its a 3.5hp high flow with a skid mounted 110ltr vessel in pretty sky blue
    Having to modify the little shed to fit the big bugga in as ol'Clisby only just fitted as it was
    ....................................................................

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Oatley NSW
    Age
    69
    Posts
    257

    Default

    Nice design and nice welding Harry, will look good when all finished and its a one-of-a-kind deign.

    Keith_W.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Bungama SA
    Age
    52
    Posts
    960

    Default

    Bastard photobucket
    ....................................................................

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Bungama SA
    Age
    52
    Posts
    960

    Default




    What do you guys think of Imgur as a photo host?
    ....................................................................

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