Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Drawbar help.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Charleville
    Age
    56
    Posts
    3

    Default Drawbar help.

    I bought this bike trailer from a mate. It had 3 pivoting tracks on it which I removed so I can lengthen it and fit a metal floor. The drawbar attachment worries me though, would appreciate any suggestions of ways to fix it. I was thinking of running a piece of 75x50 from the drawbar where the spare tyre mounts back to the spring hanger.

    IMG_0183.jpgIMG_0186.jpgIMG_0187.jpgIMG_0188.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    Hi Jock,
    Welcome to the forum. A couple of questions which would help in giving a correct answer, what are you planning on putting in/on the trailer weight wise, and is the trailer made from 75 X 50 RHS and what thickness is it, please?
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Rockhampton, QLD
    Age
    68
    Posts
    454

    Default

    Welcome to the forum Jock.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Charleville
    Age
    56
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    Hi Jock,
    Welcome to the forum. A couple of questions which would help in giving a correct answer, what are you planning on putting in/on the trailer weight wise, and is the trailer made from 75 X 50 RHS and what thickness is it, please?
    Kryn

    Drawbar and frame are 75 x 50 x 3 Gal RHS. Crossbars are 40 x 40 x 3 RHS. The trailer will be used mostly for carrying up to 4 motorbikes, plus swags and stuff. The load should not be more than 500kg.
    May look at fitting brakes and bigger load capacity at a later date.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    Hi Jock,
    "IF" you are really concerned about it, which for the load you're describing, I wouldn't be, weld a triangular plate underneath about 200 mm each way from the drawbar/chassis join, about 5mm thick. As the chassis is 75 mm deep there that would take a fair amount to bend, so personally I wouldn't bother. As you're wanting to put in a floor, I'd look at putting expanded mesh on it, won't hold water, plenty of tie down points and non slip for muddy boots, it might be more expensive, but that will be out weighted by its versatility. To give some credence to what I'm saying, have about 50 years experience with metal fabrication, professionally.
    Kryn
    Last edited by KBs PensNmore; 8th Aug 2016 at 03:59 PM. Reason: More details
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Charleville
    Age
    56
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Thanks Kryn, much appreciated. We have some rough dirt roads around here, so I like the idea of the triangle bracing you mentioned, mainly for piece of mind. As for welding it to the drawbar, would I need to weld a plate to the bottom of the drawbar so I am not welding across the drawbar? Pic attached.
    I thought about and looked into expanded mesh for the floor, but have decided to go with checker plate. Don't have to worry about water out here, it doesn't rain.

    Is this the type of bracing?

    Untitled.jpg

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    Jock, that's exactly the one. Turn the trailer upside down, grind/sand off the galv, back to original steel for a nice clean weld, especially the radii on the inside. I'd bring the gusset in about 10mm from the edge and stitch weld along it, weld 50 mm miss 100 starting from the join of the chassis/drawbar, finish with 25 mm on the outer corners, don't weld across any of the frame/chassis. Turn the chassis over and weld inside the gusset onto the frame start with 50 on the long ends miss 100 so that the welds are roughly in the 100 mm gaps opposite, equalising any distortion. A small 25 mm weld on the inside of the front X member on each side will suffice. Give the welded area several coats of cold galv to keep rust at bay, after it can be painted any colour you want.
    To fix the checker plate flooring, I'd use a product like Sikaflex to stick the floor down, you could paint the floor after sticking down. An important thing, is to make sure that there is at least a couple of mm thickness, once the floor is down, any gaps on the side could be sealed with Sikaflex again or silyastic. Silicon based sealants can be painted once silver paint has been applied over the silicon areas, for some reason silver paint adheres to silyastic.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

Similar Threads

  1. Making a Drawbar
    By oohsam in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 44
    Last Post: 19th Jul 2015, 06:02 PM
  2. Drawbar design help
    By simonl in forum TRAILERS & OTHER FABRICATED STUFF
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 31st Mar 2014, 12:02 AM
  3. bent drawbar
    By kwappa in forum TRAILERS & OTHER FABRICATED STUFF
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 10th Apr 2011, 10:16 PM
  4. Welding across the drawbar
    By Tigershark in forum TRAILERS & OTHER FABRICATED STUFF
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 6th Aug 2009, 10:36 AM
  5. Please help me...types of drawbar
    By VXEXEC350 in forum TRAILERS & OTHER FABRICATED STUFF
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 28th Apr 2009, 12:17 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •