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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Emerald Central Qld
    Posts
    349

    Default Roller rocker suspension repair

    I am starting on repairs to a tandem trailer for a mate , it has a roller rocker suspension with stuffed bushes.

    This is evident from the chopped tread on the tyres and the axles dont line up correctly .

    Somehow it has just "passed a roadworthy", as I was shown the papers, must have been a few stubbies worth.

    I have been able to get most bolts loosened , penetrating oil and big rattle gun works wonders.

    I would like to know if the pins are pressed in similar to many small trailers or are they held in place by some other means.

    I will be fitting greasable pins and new bushes , first then start on the override disc brakes which look like they have never been too effective.

    Michael

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    Hi Michael, the pins are pressed in normally, a close look where the pin comes through the plate, you should see a bit of a straight knurled edge.
    When you get the pins and bushes, make sure that you mention that they will be going together, as some bushes don't like grease. While you're at it, slide a screwdriver in between the spring leaves and apply a bit of moly grease, to keep the springs working, works well on vehicles with leaf spring suspensions.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Emerald Central Qld
    Posts
    349

    Default

    Kryn,
    Thanks for the info , I have mainly worked on bigger stuff, the little ones can be more frustrating .
    I just need to find a local shop that sells parts as I dont want to get the wrong ones.

    Michael

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    Hi Michael, if you can get the old bushes out and take them with you it should be a lot simpler, as it's the OD of the bush required, as sometimes there is a variance on the spring eyes, depending on where they were made.Take the shackle pins/plates also, as the new pins may be of a larger diameter. Look in the Yellow pages for spring maker/repairs. I doubt that an auto accessory shop would be able to supply the parts required, possibly Repco would be the closest that I could think of, that might carry the parts required.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Emerald Central Qld
    Posts
    349

    Default

    I am looking at fitting a heavier pin in the centre pivot as some fool has welded the original in .
    Any bolt / pin should be held in place by a nut or some form of removable retainer as maintenance often requires replacement of worn parts .

    I do not follow the thinking of it will never need to come out , as anything mechanical will and does wear or break.

    I may have to buy some stress proof or similar steel to make bushes and pins if the originals are no longer stocked .

    Project currently on hold as its raining and about 9 degrees with a stiff breeze .
    Not good weather for working outside.

    Michael

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    If you can list the sizes of pins and bushes on here, I'll have a look around for you, as I've got to be in Adelaide on Monday, and I know of a couple of places that stock those sort of components. Failing that I think HT bolts can be used, with bronze bushings.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Emerald Central Qld
    Posts
    349

    Default

    Dried up and warmer today so some progress , I managed to get one pin out .

    There is almost 3mm wear on one side of this pin , never seen any grease.

    I had to basically flog it out with an air hammer and small sledge hammer , so the suspension may be original .

    Still cant work out why the centre pivot pins are welded in on both sides .

    I also have one set of wheel bearings to hopefully clean and repack as they move about 6mm.

    Tomorrow I will make a pin and press the old bush out , then the fun can start finding replacements.

    Only got a little bit done as I had to go to a site and repair a machine which had thrown some belts.

    Michael

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Emerald Central Qld
    Posts
    349

    Default

    I managed to get a few hours into this "job" the roller has about 4mm oblong wear, its pin has 4mm wear on one side the bush is just a U shaped piece of yellow plastic which fell out once the roller was removed from the spring.

    I think that the original sizes were 15mmx45mmfor the spring bushes and the roller was possibly 22mmx45mm.

    Now to do some searching in the local trailer parts stockists.

    If none are available I might make some steel outer sleeves with bronze bushes and greasable pins.

    I did see some interesting posts on some of the camping and caravan forums,which suggests that what I am doing is not the first major repair for this type of suspension.
    One person made a plate with a hex hole instead of welding the main pivot pin in , I like that sort of approach.
    Slow progress but its a spare time job and I have been swamped in the past couple of weeks.

    Michael

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Emerald Central Qld
    Posts
    349

    Default

    Just a quick update ,

    I found a local welding shop who had the greasable pins and steel bushes , however the rollers are too small in diameter so I will make them , no problem .

    Just need to remove the center pivot pins ,purchase two replacements and make two anti rotation plates tack them in place and I will have a suspension that can be fixed on the side of the road without specialised equipment , just hand tools.

    Michael

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    Michael, instead of "tacking" the anti rotation plates, would it be possible to drill, tap and bolt where they go, so that it could be fixed on the side of the road.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Emerald Central Qld
    Posts
    349

    Default

    Kryn,
    The plates are only to stop the hex heads from rotating .
    I am planning on milling a slot which will allow the bolt/pin to be a neat fit but allow it to be removed.

    Possibly 1/2 x2 bar with a lot to fit the head and tacked in place once the bolts are in place so that there is no problems lining up the slot and holes in the support.

    I hope to post some pics this weekend .

    I am also making all pins and bushes 5/8 dia , something that is readily available .

    Once the center pivot pins are out a decision on the diameter of the replacements can be made.

    I will have to make the replacement rollers as the OEM size is not stocked , no problem , 50mm bar and a lathe will take care of that , I will adjust the length to suit the hangers so that sideways movement is reduced.

    Michael

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Emerald Central Qld
    Posts
    349

    Default

    Another update , been away working , but have managed to completely replace pins and bushes on one side , adjusted the wheel bearings , new grease and now to turn the trailer around and start on the LH side , I will be making some badly needed mods to the braking system so that it works reliably .

    Currently the trailer is fitted with standard override disc brakes , I will be changing the connection at the rear of the tow hitch so that it operates a bit sooner , I am used to trailer brakes coming on and assisting the tow vehicle .

    I have no intention of fitting any electrical system as I have found them to be not so user friendly when away from the black stuff.

    I may need to make a different lever to actuate the brakes on the wheel as the manufacturer of the trailer did not allow for the spring movement and the current lever gets a fair whack if the spring has to go full travel .

    I have two options one of which is to make the plate under the spring one inch thick instead of 3/8 ,10mm which will drop the spring pack well below the lever .

    The other is to take the axles out and cut the disc support brackets off and remount them around a bit further so that the spring travel does not affect the brake operation .

    Its these sort of things that manufacturers seem to do with little thought of long term viability of their product .

    Michael
    Last edited by Mike4; 16th Sep 2016 at 11:36 AM. Reason: spelling

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Far West Wimmera
    Age
    63
    Posts
    4,049

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike4 View Post

    I have no intention of fitting any electrical system as I have found them to be not so user friendly when away from the black stuff.

    Michael
    I have no experience with electric brakes myself but I do remember something I was told by a Grey Nomad. He and his wife travelled extensively throughout the country with a 4WD and offroad camper. They did not stick to the black stuff. The camper was originally fitted with electric brakes. He had them removed and said he would not recommend them for offroad use. His language was a bit more primitive than that.

    Dean

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    429

    Default

    remember with cable op brakes the lengenthening of the spring pack as it compresses will take up some of the slack in the cable ..... particularly if the cable path is not as close to the axle travel as possible.

    cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Emerald Central Qld
    Posts
    349

    Default

    Cable operated brakes have been a lot more reliable , as most hire trailers that i have used were of this type and had absolutely no problems with correctly adjusted override brakes ,

    Michael

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