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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    East Sussex, England
    Posts
    4

    Default Bent trailer frame/chassis

    Hi,
    New here & wondered if anyone could advise:

    Whilst road-testing the brakes of the new (secondhand) club stacking trailer I had a disagreement with a height barrier, resulting in an unfavourable realignment of the trailer's geometry as shown in the pix...

    The members are 40x80x3mm.

    Seems to me the options are to cut the creases out & make good either by plating 4 sides or sleeving in the next size up with wall thickness to make a snug fit. Or use unequal angle? I'm planning to MMA weld.

    Any pros & cons to this, or any other option?
    Many thanks
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Rockhampton, QLD
    Age
    68
    Posts
    454

    Default

    Welcome to the forum.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Far West Wimmera
    Age
    63
    Posts
    4,049

    Default

    Mostly it is buses and trucks doing this lately.

    Years ago I bent an A-frame from overloading with firewood. It was only a small amount compared to yours. The frame was angle. I cut and shut the angle and then boxed it in with another bit of angle to form a square for extra strength. I did this on both sides. It is still going strong.

    In your case I would cut and shut and then side plate it. You should be careful not to leave any gaps for water to get inside between the RHS and plate. I would use 6mm plate cut to a width so that the weld sits on the curve. In other words the plate width should be the width of the flat surface of the RHS, or just a fraction more to give you a vee for the weld.

    You will read about the idea of not welding across the top/bottom face of structural members on trailers. A weld across the top/bottom surface will create a weak point which may lead to failure. This is why I suggest plating the sides.

    Dean

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Bungama SA
    Age
    52
    Posts
    960

    Default

    Is there enough width on the uprights base plate(U bolt spacing)to accommodate the extra thickness that plating it up will create?

    I'd be inclined to replace the rails completely being in a marine environment they are probably already well aged...
    ....................................................................

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    East Sussex, England
    Posts
    4

    Default newb

    Quote Originally Posted by old1955 View Post
    Welcome to the forum.
    Thanks for your welcome, Hope it's OK but I couldn't find a suitable forum here in the UK.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    East Sussex, England
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Harry72 View Post
    Is there enough width on the uprights base plate(U bolt spacing)to accommodate the extra thickness that plating it up will create?
    Yes, the u-bolts have quite a lot of space between them & the rail. Also, the racking can be moved a bit if necessary

    I'd be inclined to replace the rails completely being in a marine environment they are probably already well aged...
    The trailer is not that old & is fully galvanised and from one of the UK's leading manufacturers. It is not the sort that goes in the water as it takes lightweight Topper dinghies which are manhandled off the rack. Yes it has been kept nearish to the sea, but I would say that corrosion is not a concern yet.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    East Sussex, England
    Posts
    4

    Default Plating

    Dean, Thanks for that - exactly the kind of info I was hoping for - it's one thing being able to run a passable bead, but I'm short on experience.
    Just to make sure i've got what you're saying - is this pic right?

    Cheers.
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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Far West Wimmera
    Age
    63
    Posts
    4,049

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by UserError View Post
    Dean, Thanks for that - exactly the kind of info I was hoping for - it's one thing being able to run a passable bead, but I'm short on experience.
    Just to make sure i've got what you're saying - is this pic right?

    Cheers.
    Thats right except you can weld down the ends of the plate to close it in.

    It is the sides of the RHS that provide most of the vertical strength. This trailer looks as tho it does not carry a lot of weight. You said it has 3mm wall thickness. 4mm plate may be enough for the repair. Like Harry said you will need to do something about the Ubolts to make them fit.

    Thanks for your welcome, Hope it's OK but I couldn't find a suitable forum here in the UK.
    We have members from all over the place. The more the merrier. It is actually good to have input from other countries. You have a good head start because you drive on the right side of the road and use the same electrical voltages as we do. Measurements are another plus. We use mostly the same bolt threads and the same measuring system.

    Dean

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