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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    4,756

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by glivo View Post
    Being a retired metalwork teacher I've already welded.
    Hi glivo,
    If you have oxy acetylene experience that would be invaluable to future tig learning.
    The basic manipulations are almost identical.
    Some of the best tig operators I ever knew were ex oxy welders..

    However one should never think that the process is a do everything process.Like all of the other processes it has ideal applications and others were it is severely limited. Breezes and anything less than highly cleaned welding surfaces are the enemies of TIG.

    As you say TIG needs those extras and for those of us with limited discretionary budgets, choices need to be made.

    Grahame

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Gosford
    Age
    58
    Posts
    150

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Commander_Keen View Post

    So with this in mind... nothing stopping a user getting a industry standard CK 9/17/26 series TIG torch with the appropriate DINSE SAFE-LOC style connector, and just run a torch with a valve on it (and run the gas straight to the reg, bypassing any internal gas solenoid, if any).
    It needs to be at the very least a switched torch as well as having the valve, or a separate switch used, (ie: foot pedal switch only). Yes, these torches are available but as far as I can see not with the required 8 pin plug. There is no gas throughput on the welder in the TIG path. The gas hose is connected direct to the regulator, (unlike MIG mode). Either way the electrical switching of the torch in either 2T or 4T mode must be done going through the 8 pin plug into the socket on the machine. No escaping that fact.

    Quote Originally Posted by Commander_Keen View Post
    Each to their own, but if a machine were a bargain, and I was certain I needed the features hindered by a silly 8 pole proprietary or obscure connection, I'd tap into the wires internally and make it work with the plug type I want (eg a 7 pin amphenol).
    I'm not about to tap into any circuitry on a brand new machine at the beginning of the 3 year warranty period.

    The plug in question is an Amphenol type 8 pin CIGWELD part number is UOA706900 and Amphenol 206434-1. (outer shell / strain relief separate)

    TorchMaster list this but no picture " ERCP6 8 pin Male Plug" https://torchmaster.com.au/products-...zipper-covers/

    Here is the USA ESAB model.

    https://www.ebay.com.au/i/273805080027?chn=ps

    For just torch switching only pins 2 & 3 are required. For current control / wire feed (spool gun in Mig mode) etc pins 5 - 8 are utilised. A 6 or even 7 pin plug and socket would have sufficed. I think it will be easier to just fork out the the Cigweld Torch @ $149.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Gosford
    Age
    58
    Posts
    150

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Grahame Collins View Post
    If you have oxy acetylene experience that would be invaluable to future tig learning.
    The basic manipulations are almost identical.
    Some of the best tig operators I ever knew were ex oxy welders..
    I do. When the old 130 failed recently I had to drag out the Oxy set to do the required weld. The beginning of a slippery slope of dipping into the pocket.


    Quote Originally Posted by Grahame Collins View Post
    As you say TIG needs those extras and for those of us with limited discretionary budgets, choices need to be made.
    It isn't as though the need for extra gear was a surprise. I knew full well the Tig gear isn't included. I am not even too surprised that Cigweld use a "non-standard" plug. In saying this though, the cost of their basic switched torch is not unreasonable compared to industry stuff, so if it has quality then no problem really.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    261

    Default Lift Tig

    I have a Lincoln 150S inverter stick, with lift tig function, the torch for that is a CIG torch with a gas control knob on top. I gave the lift tig a go, thinking if i could weld reasonably well doing lift tig, I would then go out and purchase a better machine for tig welding.

    What a pain in the butt, as I have said before, tig is a bitch who demands attention, clean metal, no rust, etc, not suited for my kind of work, I can lay down a good bead with a mig quicker then preparing rusted metal for tig welding, besides, i prefer to stand or kneel rather then sit over a bench joining metal together with thin piece of metal rod that you constantly need to feed through with your hand.

    Good luck with the lift tig on your machine.

    DD

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Gosford
    Age
    58
    Posts
    150

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    I understand the requirements, intricacies and nature of Tig but it is something I've seen done and always wanted to try. I've done stick, oxy, mig and spot welding, brazing and silver and soft solder, but never tig. I don't need to do it but I'm like that. Why stop learning?
    What CIG tig torch have you got DD? If it's the 8 pin do you want to sell it?

    Sent from my SGP521 using Tapatalk

    Edit: After many interruptions (again) I finally unpacked the 175i+ yesterday and set it up with some wire. I'll power it up today and see how she goes, finally.

    The instruction manual says that the wire feed brake mechanism is set in the factory for optimum performance with 5 kg spool but to me it seems a bit tight. The setup instructions say there should be between 10 and 20 mm travel after the trigger is released. The last wrap of wire should be loose but not able to spring free. There is no free travel at all and the wire remains tight, so I might loosen it off a bit. Any advice here?

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Gosford
    Age
    58
    Posts
    150

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    I've just gone out and purchased the Cigweld TIG torch required to use with the 175i+ welder, Part# W4013801.

    They provide the Torch assembly itself and a small sealed packet of consumables.
    This includes: 3 nozzles in sizes 4, 5 and 6.
    a short and long back cover.
    a 2.4 mm collet and collet body and matching single 2.4 mm Grey electrode
    a 1.6 mm collet without a matching collet body or electrode.

    I guess you could go straight home and weld.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    985

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    My only wisdom regarding TIG - from the admittedly little I've learned and experienced so far - the *only* electrodes you need are 2.4mm Lanthinated. All electrodes get sharpened to a point, so the diameter of the rest of it doesn't really matter, and lanthinated works with everything.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Gosford
    Age
    58
    Posts
    150

    Default

    I've been watching a lot of videos and they do say that 2.4 mm is the go. The type of electrode / colour doesn't matter that much with inverter rigs. Different for transformers so they say and obviously the more critical the job, the more it matters. There is a lot of recommendation for E3 (purple) electrodes (in USA at least). Environmentally friendly and apparently not radioactive.

    Sent from my SGP521 using Tapatalk

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