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  1. #76
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
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    59
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    6,542

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    Without knowing the size rods or other details, 40 to 45 amps does sound a little low. Low amps will also make starting hard. For welding with 2.5mm electrodes, most of the time 50 to 80A seems to be the sort of range I would expect. The packet should have an amp range to use as a starting point. I fell into the trap once of reading that and deciding that I should be able to weld happily on the minimum setting. Wrong. The welding conditions dictate the amps required. Once you find the right spot for the combination of material, rods and welding supply it becomes so much easier.

    You could turn the VRD off, but it's your life you are playing with. Far better to persevere and learn how to work with it. Who knows - one day you may have to use an unfamiliar power supply somewhere and you can't/ don't know how to turn it off, so you will have to deal with it anyway.

    Michael

  2. #77
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney ( st marys )
    Age
    64
    Posts
    4,887

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    Get yourself a scrap piece of plate about 10 mm thick could be thinner but not below 6 mm and about 150 square if possible and carry this with thewelder and use this to strike the arc before commencing your weld , works best if the tip of the rod is still warm when you start the weld, this may reduce your initial starting problems.

  3. #78
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Frankston south
    Posts
    102

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    Without looking it up, my guess is the rods are the equivalent of 12p's which are 6013's and they do glaze the rod end so a harder strike is sometimes needed to get them going. (though they're not supposed too) They are fine for doing verticals and a very good all round electrode.
    Last edited by waxen; 24th Aug 2018 at 06:05 PM. Reason: incorrect data

  4. #79
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,836

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    Michael it was a pretty cold day in Sydney and i was probably at the lowest amp range, i think my biggest problem is speed when i was practicing yesterday i noticed i was double the speed i should be welding at so i slowed down and started making those nice welds without holes in the beads i think i can see the same problem with the vertical welds but i just can't seem to get that same rythem welding up as i do going side ways maybe its because i am unstead i'm not to sure

    I'll leave the VRD turned on

    Pipe yeah i have been striking near where i want to start but it doesn't pan out and i get these streaks of dots where the rod sticks than i lift it of and it arks right across like a rainbow its really something i need to workout why its happening and how i can do it less if its going to happen

    do u guys think the arc starting could be the rods i am using? they are the cheapest rods that were sold by the shop i was going to get the Lincoln but at $50 a pack i didn't know if i would be able to stick weld

    as or the vertical welding up hill do u also recommend i try welding on a slanted surface rather than 90 degrees to learn and slowly move it to the 90 degree position as i learn?

  5. #80
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,836

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    Quote Originally Posted by waxen View Post
    Without looking it up, my guess is the rods are the equivalent of 12p's or 4112's and they do glaze the rod end so a harder strike is sometimes needed to get them going. They are fine for doing verticals and a very good all round electrode.
    Waxen the rods are these ones but from a different store https://www.ewelders.com.au/gemini-1...x-2-kg-100012/

  6. #81
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Ballina, NSW
    Posts
    900

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    Gazza, with the vertical welds the arc end of the rod is higher than the handle end. Not extreme - say have the rod tip 5cm above the other end on a full rod. I agree that your amps seem a bit low [edit: just looked at your welds - definitely too low]. The real secret is to make sure your arc is VERY short. If your rod is sticking while you are welding turn up the amps. I'm not sure what size rods you're using, but 2.6mm is a great all rounder - like I said before the Gemini 12's are great for what you are trying to do.
    Yeah sure - practice on a slope. Or just try doing short vertical runs - even a few inches at a time to practice.
    Another hint is to use your free hand (with a glove) to hold the electrode half way along when you start. You can then give the electrode a really good controlled scratch/jab in the right spot to start the arc, without the rod flicking around. Let go with your free hand after you've started obviously. This will help you get an arc first time and stop getting arc strikes everywhere you don't want them.
    Mick

  7. #82
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,836

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    Thanks i will keep on trying untill it works, going vertical and keeping the same arc length i found hard to maintain some times i touched the metal and got stuck other times i came off the metal around 8-9mm maybe 10mm most of the time i tried to aim for around 5-6mm

  8. #83
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    1,836

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    I ordered a pack of the Lincoln 6013 2.5mm found them extremely cheap so thought its worth trying $5.50 per kilo on ebay and they are these https://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-a...ctric_EU_Base)

    I'm going to try vertical up on just plain flat material and practice on this before i try a fillet weld again, once i master stick welding i will get my trailer underway hopefully in 3-5 months from now which will be oil filled so i need to lay some really nice beads without leaking

  9. #84
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Ballina, NSW
    Posts
    900

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    OK I'll bite...

    Oil filled?

  10. #85
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,836

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    Quote Originally Posted by WelderMick View Post
    OK I'll bite...

    Oil filled?
    Yeah a boat trailer Mick, you ideally seal off the ends of the RHS than weld a nut on the top and a drain nut on the bottom so u fill the internal RHS with oil than u paint the outside of the trailer so it cannot rust saves paying a lot of money or galvanizing

    They charge $5 to $6 per kilo of trailer frame weight to galvanize that's around $500-$1500 just to coat the trailer

  11. #86
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    1,105

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    Won't that add a lot of weight?

    Also if it ends up leaking it could be dangerous if it ends up on the road. Can't you just buy galvanised rhs and then spray the welds with gal paint?

  12. #87
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,836

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    Hey Com, That cold galvanize paint is really poorly made mate it just doesn't work in saltwater environments, i thought about buying the pre gal steel in those C beams but it was recommended i build it from RHS, with the RHS i have no way of getting paint or a lube into the inside of the welds where the weld burns of the gal

  13. #88
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Ballina, NSW
    Posts
    900

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    Why was it recommended not to go with C beams?

  14. #89
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    1,836

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    Was told it may be imported steel and lower 250 grade rather than the good graded steel of 350 from memory, this is the steel here https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/nare...gth/1038153246

    the discussion was about the 100x50x4mm C channel over 100x50x3mm RHS and iwas told the RHS would be more suitable

  15. #90
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
    Posts
    6,216

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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    I'm going to try vertical up on just plain flat material and practice on this before i try a fillet weld again,
    Vertical up is pretty hard and will require lots and lots and practice.
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

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