Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 76 to 90 of 97
-
23rd Aug 2018, 07:14 PM #76Philomath in training
- Join Date
- Oct 2011
- Location
- Norwood-ish, Adelaide
- Age
- 59
- Posts
- 6,542
Without knowing the size rods or other details, 40 to 45 amps does sound a little low. Low amps will also make starting hard. For welding with 2.5mm electrodes, most of the time 50 to 80A seems to be the sort of range I would expect. The packet should have an amp range to use as a starting point. I fell into the trap once of reading that and deciding that I should be able to weld happily on the minimum setting. Wrong. The welding conditions dictate the amps required. Once you find the right spot for the combination of material, rods and welding supply it becomes so much easier.
You could turn the VRD off, but it's your life you are playing with. Far better to persevere and learn how to work with it. Who knows - one day you may have to use an unfamiliar power supply somewhere and you can't/ don't know how to turn it off, so you will have to deal with it anyway.
Michael
-
23rd Aug 2018, 08:44 PM #77Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Location
- sydney ( st marys )
- Age
- 64
- Posts
- 4,887
Get yourself a scrap piece of plate about 10 mm thick could be thinner but not below 6 mm and about 150 square if possible and carry this with thewelder and use this to strike the arc before commencing your weld , works best if the tip of the rod is still warm when you start the weld, this may reduce your initial starting problems.
-
23rd Aug 2018, 09:34 PM #78Senior Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2010
- Location
- Frankston south
- Posts
- 102
Without looking it up, my guess is the rods are the equivalent of 12p's which are 6013's and they do glaze the rod end so a harder strike is sometimes needed to get them going. (though they're not supposed too) They are fine for doing verticals and a very good all round electrode.
Last edited by waxen; 24th Aug 2018 at 06:05 PM. Reason: incorrect data
-
23rd Aug 2018, 09:36 PM #79Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2009
- Location
- Sydney, NSW, Australia
- Posts
- 1,836
Michael it was a pretty cold day in Sydney and i was probably at the lowest amp range, i think my biggest problem is speed when i was practicing yesterday i noticed i was double the speed i should be welding at so i slowed down and started making those nice welds without holes in the beads i think i can see the same problem with the vertical welds but i just can't seem to get that same rythem welding up as i do going side ways maybe its because i am unstead i'm not to sure
I'll leave the VRD turned on
Pipe yeah i have been striking near where i want to start but it doesn't pan out and i get these streaks of dots where the rod sticks than i lift it of and it arks right across like a rainbow its really something i need to workout why its happening and how i can do it less if its going to happen
do u guys think the arc starting could be the rods i am using? they are the cheapest rods that were sold by the shop i was going to get the Lincoln but at $50 a pack i didn't know if i would be able to stick weld
as or the vertical welding up hill do u also recommend i try welding on a slanted surface rather than 90 degrees to learn and slowly move it to the 90 degree position as i learn?
-
23rd Aug 2018, 09:47 PM #80Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2009
- Location
- Sydney, NSW, Australia
- Posts
- 1,836
Waxen the rods are these ones but from a different store https://www.ewelders.com.au/gemini-1...x-2-kg-100012/
-
23rd Aug 2018, 11:34 PM #81Golden Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2010
- Location
- Ballina, NSW
- Posts
- 900
Gazza, with the vertical welds the arc end of the rod is higher than the handle end. Not extreme - say have the rod tip 5cm above the other end on a full rod. I agree that your amps seem a bit low [edit: just looked at your welds - definitely too low]. The real secret is to make sure your arc is VERY short. If your rod is sticking while you are welding turn up the amps. I'm not sure what size rods you're using, but 2.6mm is a great all rounder - like I said before the Gemini 12's are great for what you are trying to do.
Yeah sure - practice on a slope. Or just try doing short vertical runs - even a few inches at a time to practice.
Another hint is to use your free hand (with a glove) to hold the electrode half way along when you start. You can then give the electrode a really good controlled scratch/jab in the right spot to start the arc, without the rod flicking around. Let go with your free hand after you've started obviously. This will help you get an arc first time and stop getting arc strikes everywhere you don't want them.
Mick
-
23rd Aug 2018, 11:57 PM #82Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2009
- Location
- Sydney, NSW, Australia
- Posts
- 1,836
Thanks i will keep on trying untill it works, going vertical and keeping the same arc length i found hard to maintain some times i touched the metal and got stuck other times i came off the metal around 8-9mm maybe 10mm most of the time i tried to aim for around 5-6mm
-
24th Aug 2018, 09:34 PM #83Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2009
- Location
- Sydney, NSW, Australia
- Posts
- 1,836
I ordered a pack of the Lincoln 6013 2.5mm found them extremely cheap so thought its worth trying $5.50 per kilo on ebay and they are these https://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-a...ctric_EU_Base)
I'm going to try vertical up on just plain flat material and practice on this before i try a fillet weld again, once i master stick welding i will get my trailer underway hopefully in 3-5 months from now which will be oil filled so i need to lay some really nice beads without leaking
-
24th Aug 2018, 10:16 PM #84Golden Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2010
- Location
- Ballina, NSW
- Posts
- 900
OK I'll bite...
Oil filled?
-
24th Aug 2018, 10:30 PM #85Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2009
- Location
- Sydney, NSW, Australia
- Posts
- 1,836
Yeah a boat trailer Mick, you ideally seal off the ends of the RHS than weld a nut on the top and a drain nut on the bottom so u fill the internal RHS with oil than u paint the outside of the trailer so it cannot rust saves paying a lot of money or galvanizing
They charge $5 to $6 per kilo of trailer frame weight to galvanize that's around $500-$1500 just to coat the trailer
-
24th Aug 2018, 10:45 PM #86Diamond Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2006
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 1,105
Won't that add a lot of weight?
Also if it ends up leaking it could be dangerous if it ends up on the road. Can't you just buy galvanised rhs and then spray the welds with gal paint?
-
24th Aug 2018, 10:47 PM #87Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2009
- Location
- Sydney, NSW, Australia
- Posts
- 1,836
Hey Com, That cold galvanize paint is really poorly made mate it just doesn't work in saltwater environments, i thought about buying the pre gal steel in those C beams but it was recommended i build it from RHS, with the RHS i have no way of getting paint or a lube into the inside of the welds where the weld burns of the gal
-
24th Aug 2018, 10:55 PM #88Golden Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2010
- Location
- Ballina, NSW
- Posts
- 900
Why was it recommended not to go with C beams?
-
24th Aug 2018, 11:06 PM #89Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2009
- Location
- Sydney, NSW, Australia
- Posts
- 1,836
Was told it may be imported steel and lower 250 grade rather than the good graded steel of 350 from memory, this is the steel here https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/nare...gth/1038153246
the discussion was about the 100x50x4mm C channel over 100x50x3mm RHS and iwas told the RHS would be more suitable
-
25th Aug 2018, 09:11 AM #90Pink 10EE owner
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- near Rockhampton
- Posts
- 6,216
Similar Threads
-
Is Arc welder good for window/ door/ gate grill DIY project?
By pro in forum WELDINGReplies: 15Last Post: 28th Oct 2016, 11:19 AM -
Plastic Oil Window Repair
By Bryan in forum METALWORK GENERALReplies: 29Last Post: 5th Jan 2011, 02:29 AM -
boat window frame
By swart in forum METALWORK GENERALReplies: 2Last Post: 11th Sep 2009, 08:06 PM -
No new window?
By MajorPanic in forum FORUMS INFO, HELP, DISCUSSION & FEEDBACKReplies: 12Last Post: 11th Aug 2005, 05:53 PM