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  1. #31
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    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    I don't mind fine tuning but at the moment i am miles off on settings if there were a basic way of going 5 and 6 for instance than i can fine tune from there but at the moment i am testing 4-7 on both dials i really need some starting points and i don't know how to find those starting points i have tried the multimeter over the terminals i have tried online calculators but it doesn't pan out

    do u think i would look like a total idiot calling the welder repair shop and asking them if they can test my welder and write down some basic settings inside the cover or me? using .8 and .9mm wires both with gas and gasless or am i pissing in the wind?

    i just checked my wire i am using a CIGWeld gasless .8mm wire i also have it set up correctly or gasless, do u think using a quality Lincoln gasless wire will improve my ability to find the settings?

    i can go buy another argon mix cylinder but i would rather gasless due to cheaper and i can weld in the wind
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  2. #32
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    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    Actually considering selling my Italco welder and buying a Bossweld M150 mig from bunnings because it has the chart i need to read right on the front of the machine
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  3. #33
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    Lebrina
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    The chart on most welders is a really nice decoration and little more in my humble opinion as it gives a starting point only.
    If you are welding at 19-19.5V then you are too high on your voltage. Unfortunately Cigweld do not list recommended voltage and wire feed figures for their wires, but many others do and Miller, Lincoln and BOC are all recommending voltages in the 14-18V range for E71T-GS wire with BOC listing 15V as the optimum setting for downhand work.
    Have a look at this link for some tips. http://www.cigweld.com.au/wp-content...ss-proof-2.pdf

  4. #34
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    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    Karl that was a great read i like the bit about setting both dials to 50% than fine tuning the wire feed to suit it sounds easy as when u put it like that but i dont know what a proper weld or a sifficent weld looks like

    Also old mate says stick out 25mm my stick out has been 10-12mm

    One last thing is this lincoln wire pictured ok? Its almost 100 bucks a roll but a local welding shop has it in stock
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  5. #35
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    Sep 2010
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    Lebrina
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    Can't see the image, but Lincoln wire would be fine. Your wire isn't the problem though (unless you want to do multiple pass welds on heavier materials). Learn to run the wire you have and you'll be fine.

  6. #36
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    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    Ok thanks or the help so far guys i have made some progress mostly a miss but how did i do on this weld? i picked up a 4.5kg roll of USA made wire than installed it into the machine i cannot believe i had no tension on the wire and it was still feeding .8mm i than started to weld and it looked terrible i u actually want to see it i will show the welds, i was floating around the 5-6 settings on both wire feed and voltage and it kept burning back the wire but not enough to stop welding sort of a hisss hisss hisss so i kept upping the wire feed than thought i better turn up the voltage to suit the material (4mm steel angle) and i finally maxed out the machine, when i start to weld the beginning is sketchy but the pool starts to form than ican hear the bacon noise

    my helmet was set to 12 couldnt see a thing i turned it back to around 10 1/2 and could just see the pool in the sun
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  7. #37
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    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    Here is the wire its Omega brand from the USA, 0.8mm gasless
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  8. #38
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    Sep 2010
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    Lebrina
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    Welds starting to look more presentable there Gazza.

  9. #39
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    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    I tried running some corner weld 2.5mm onto 3mm RHS/SHS found i was to hot not sure i if i should have reduced the voltage or wire feed but i could see the steel cratering after the weld was done

    went and ran a couple over head horizontal welds i done surprisingly well i had poor fit up as i was T fitting 2.5mm RHS so as u can imagine i had that rounded edge gap, as i was welding i kept going a little to fast but this welding wire welds like magic i could see the pool creating a hole right thru the steel but if i slowed down just that really tiny bit the weld would pool up on its self and fill the hole as its going alone i could not believe it to date i have never seen a wire able to do this

    i must say i have been lacking the edge to ramp up the welder but this is what i needed all along i have been to low on amperage and wire feed

  10. #40
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    Aug 2009
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    Here is the 2.5mm RHS to 3mm SHS inside corner weld, u can see i done a bit of testing and bumped my voltage up to 8 but backed it down or this weld (hole on right was at number 8 on voltage)

    013.jpg

    next one shows the butt joint and gap filling i had no other way of filling it because it had to bridge the gap and weld, these were the overhead welds

    016.jpg017.jpg

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Wimmera
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    96

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    You have to remove all rust and those gal coatings completely to even start to do anything decent.

    Hope this helps.

    John

  12. #42
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    Aug 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wimmera Jack View Post
    You have to remove all rust and those gal coatings completely to even start to do anything decent.

    Hope this helps.

    John
    Hey John I tried to remove all that gal a few years ago when i put that frame together it may have just embedded the zinc as i was grinding it back as it hardly even rusted in all this time i did run over it with the 2" wire brush on the cordless drill also the other rusty material i could not clean i tried and tried the metal just went black and a lot o the rust wouldn't move

    for everyone here are my welds from when i was too cold and couldn't find the right setting
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  13. #43
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    Oct 2015
    Location
    melbourne
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    473

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    I think a flap wheel would remove rust much more reliably than a wire wheel.


    Russ

  14. #44
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    Feb 2010
    Location
    Ballina, NSW
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    900

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    Yes a flap disk at the minimum. A wire wheel will just smear the zinc around. Grind until you get yellow sparks - which is the point that you've exposed the steel. Then make sure everything to be welded is ground down to that level.
    Mick

  15. #45
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    Aug 2009
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    I actually used one of those thick grinding disc i didnt even think of the flap disc i remember being worried about making the section to be welded to thin from the grinding

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