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  1. #16
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    Aug 2009
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    What we are looking at in these pictures are the two bottom welds (piece is upside down to previous pictures)
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #17
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    Aug 2009
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    East Warburton, Vic
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    i did have a argon mix from bunnings
    Did you change the polarity of the wires over to suit gasless?
    Cheers

    DJ

  3. #18
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    Yeah i think i have the right polarity i will check tomorrow

  4. #19
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    Sep 2010
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    Lebrina
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    Those welds look very hot and burnt looking. According to the Lincoln Parameters guide, .9mm gasless wire should be run at 16.0V and 2-2.5M/min with the electrode negative for 2.5mm material. Even using 1.2mm gasless wire, the highest voltage recommended is 18.0V. It pays to remember that gasless welding is a very different beast to welding with gas and you cannot really expect any of your settings to cross over.

  5. #20
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    I am way of on the settings than bugger, i wanted to ask should there be any slack in the wire between the roll of wire and the tube where it enters the rollers? mine has always been set up tight but i have been watching some videos and people have slack in theirs

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    I am way of on the settings than bugger, i wanted to ask should there be any slack in the wire between the roll of wire and the tube where it enters the rollers? mine has always been set up tight but i have been watching some videos and people have slack in theirs
    It sounds like your spool tension may be a little tight which can cause excessive slippage between the wire feed rollers and the wire. You want it set so that the spool stops without over running at the end of a weld, but not so tight that the drive unit has to struggle to feed wire off the spool.

  7. #22
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    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    Do u guys think i should upgrade to a more user friendly machine?

    looking at this Chinese copy of the Magnum Welder

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mig-200A...item23a5e5917f

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Magnum-W...agnum+mig.TRS0

    view the picture of the Magnum weld look how smooth and A Class that weld is that's how i want to weld, i think my machine is capable of doing this but not in my hands

  8. #23
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    Jun 2007
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    The only thing that should be causing slack between the feed rollers and liner would be the tip at the hand piece if it's restricting the flow of the wire.
    I would if possible look at using gas before changing welders.
    Do you have much experience with welding?

  9. #24
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    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    Clay not a great deal mostly my welds are a big miss as i can never get the right settings for the material i think a synergic digital machine should help me as the settings are pre-set

    happy to pass on my welder or a couple hundred bucks and pick up one of those Chinese welders https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5Je6GELf1I

  10. #25
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    Nov 2010
    Location
    Frankston south
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    102

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    Get some gas and persevere with it. Looks like your welds have you moving too fast.

  11. #26
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    Please view this thread guys "Hallelujah i can finally mig weld!"
    Its a thread from last year using this welder with gas but i am still struggling to get the right settings

  12. #27
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    Feb 2010
    Location
    Ballina, NSW
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    Don't do it Gazza. Synergic is not going to fix your problem - it's more about convenience. You just need to METHODICALLY work out what the best MIG settings are for the type of welds you're doing. Then write down the settings.

  13. #28
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    I was just about to ask that Mick thanks, is there anyone setting i can use to do all the welds like butt,corner etc even if the weld is a little hot or cold but sufficent this way i can write down inside the welders cover the 4 major thicknesses i would be welding

    2,2.5,3,4mm steel

  14. #29
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    With all due respect Gazza, as long as I have seen your post on these forums you have been looking for the magic bullet that will allow you to weld like a 20 year veteran. It doesn't exist. As WelderMick correctly posted, the only way is to methodically set your parameters. Even Synergic machines are not perfect and need fine adjustment, meaning you still need to know what to look for and what should be happening as you weld.
    Persevere with one machine and get to know it and you will have much more success.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Mackay North Qld
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    Good point on the liner, Pipeclay.

    Often, a replacement liner comes longer than required and depending on the length of the gun cable is cut back with side cutters.
    What happens at times, is that the cut leaves a burr on the coiled liner that is inside the liner space and rubs on the wire as it passes through. The effect is to slow down the wire speed.

    Attention to detail here is important and give the end a bit of a dressing to remove the said burr. The same sort of attention needed with the wire spool spring, too little tension is as bad as too much. Spool under tension can cause overrun making the wire to jump out of the feed roller, particularly if the machine is missing the guide in-usually a small tube fitted over the wire but anchored to the roller frame. The roll tension is critical and a lot mistake it as the cause of the problem when in fact it is the other factors as decribed previously.

    Most of the problems a MIG/FCAW will suffer is in the wire feed system. Too many do not do the regular maintenance which keeps the machines running like clocks.

    Useless buggers, me included, have been known to drop heaver objects on, or bend/ kink the liner, also no good for smooth travel of wire through the liner. Pull the liner on a regular basis and run it through your fingers and check for bends or kinks.



    gazza 2009, you have has not yet mentioned the wire diameter of the wire or the type. It is like the old Castrol Ad "Oils ain't Oils." Do a bit of research on different wire types. The wire grade is written somewhere on the spool. See the pic and reference- E71T-GS in this example.That is what you look up for the data on that specific wire. Every wire worth using should have this type of number.

    Differing wires run on differing current and voltage settings.

    If a wire speed and voltage setting are nominated, it is only for that wire and that particular position nominated. One setting does not cover every situation. At best it can be regarded as nominal, so have a digital display won't help you. The skill is in learning to read the welding arc and the subsequent deposit and mentally calculate do I need to move it up or down, or change wire stickout,or the speed of travel.

    Flux core is not, and never ever was, meant as a substitute for mig on sheet metal thicknesses. It will ok on 3mm and up.It can be made to ron but nothing like as ompared to solid wire and gas. Speaking of gas assited FCAW , Argon is not suitable .Argon co2 mixes are what are used.

    Getting back to the synergic system $500 or so is way too cheap for this particular machine to be any good. The name on the side of the unit pictured almost describes my thoughts on the unit.Just one letter missing. Stick with what you have got mate, and learn the nuances of the arc.

    Finally, looking at your pics it appears to me the wire speed needs to go at a couple of points back and the voltage needs 2 or 3 steps up.

    Grahame

    Mini spool example.jpg

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