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  1. #1
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    Default Learning to TIG, what gear with existing welder?

    Gday guys,
    I have a UNIMIG 175 Mig welder and would like to use the MMA function to do some scratch start TIG. I just want to dip my toe so to speak before i commit to a fully independent TIG machine.
    I have seen youtube videos of setups but not certain 100% of what gear i need to get started.
    Can someone please lead me in the right direction to exactly what equipment I need. Obviously Argon bottle, Tig consumables TIG lead and torch(what type) I really know very little of TIG gear.
    Many thanks Max

  2. #2
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    I just completed a 20 hour TIG unit at TAFE as part of my course, we had a great lecturer and it was a lot of fun.

    The first thing you're going to want is a nice pair of TIG gloves, the thin pig skin helps you feel what you're doing and feed the filler rod into the puddle, one of the students came back to class after lunch with a TIG pen from the local welding shop, we were all pretty envious, it made feeding the filler rod look so easy for him (I gotta have one now)

    We were using E3 electrodes, I think they're a general purpose electrode, I overheard a lecturer raving about some 2% lanthanated tungsten electrodes...? what ever they were they sounded good.

    I really enjoyed TIG welding, I think I'll do the same as you and set up my little inverter welder for TIG

  3. #3
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    For the tig torch i'd just start off with a basic 17FV The F means it has a flexable neck and the V means it has a valve on the handle as I assume your machine doesn't have a built in solenoid for the gas like a dedicated tig would.

    Make sure it has the right dinse connector to suit your machine. There is either a small one or large one, I would think yours takes the small size. Check the specs for your welder.

    This torch is rated for 150 amps which should be plenty for you.

  4. #4
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    As for tungtens no idea. Years ago there used to only be a few variety's available. Red was most often used for steel but now it is classed as hazardous so don't think it is so common anymore. White was used for aluminium.

    I'm currently using blue 1.6mm for no particular reason.

    Someone else might be able to comment on the most suitable.

  5. #5
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    Ceriated is a good choice for all round work.
    Zirconiated is good for AC but you won't be using that with your welder.
    1.6 mm is good for up to around 90-100A, after that jump to 2.4 mm.

  6. #6
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    Default

    Thanks for the advice,
    this is my welder https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/W177
    Does this mean I will need the gas valve on the handle? What about hooking up the gas, do I use the same set-up for MIG through the new TIG torch or a separate line from gas bottle?
    What size Dinse connector would this unit be?
    Thanks

  7. #7
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    You have no gas control on that welder so the TIG torch will require a valve on the handle.
    You cannot use the same gas for MIG as for TIG - TIG requires pure Argon not the mixed gas used for MIG, so you'll need a separate bottle
    .You'll be using the 2 x MMA connections so you will need a scratch start TIG kit - something like this https://www.weldequip.com/tig-conversion.htm
    This might also help - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7mzJSnqhZDg

  8. #8
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    Thanks Gavin,
    is this the same thing basically without reg. I assume I can use the reg I have now that I use on C25 gas for mig?
    https://www.ewelders.com.au/unmig-8m...mp-17v-8mcp50/

  9. #9
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    Yep, that's the type of thing. The TIG torch goes into the -ve connection on the welder, the work lead goes into the +ve connection (which is the reverse of the MMA connections) as you want to run electrode negative.
    You'll soon know if you have it the wrong way as your tungsten will do the magic disappearing trick!

    You can use the current regulator but generally a "pea-shooter" type gives better control over the gas flow, this is important as you will be using flow rates down around 6-10 lpm (normally around 7 lpm) so a lot of the MIG struggle down that low. You can get cheap flow rate testers to check the settings if you do end up using the MIG regulator though - it's just more faffing about to set the rate.

  10. #10
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    Thanks Gavin,
    I will be giving it a shot soon to see if its something I want to do on a semi regular basis. So much to learn and I really am green with this stuff. then I guess if I see myself wanting to get into it a separate machine with all the controls will come later.

  11. #11
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    Based on YouTube TIG videos, I use 2% Lanthanated tungstens (blue) for everything. I got a box of 10 off Ebay, sharpen them all, and then swap them out as I contaminate the tungsten (happens a lot when learning). You can use that tungsten for pretty much all metals.

    The recent thing I learned (again from YouTube) is that you only really need one size of tungsten (I use 2.4mm) if you want to do particularly fine work, just sharpen it to a finer point. This particular YouTuber (6061.com) uses 3.2mm for everything from joining razor blades to thick aluminium section. And he does very pretty welds.

  12. #12
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    Yes, you'll spend a bit of time at the grinder, which reminds me, you'll need a grinder, and a silicon carbide wheel dedicated to sharpening the tungsten, an aluminium oxide wheel might do the job though? (somebody else will comment) either way you don't want to contaminate the wheel you use for grinding electrodes.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by NedsHead View Post
    Yes, you'll spend a bit of time at the grinder, which reminds me, you'll need a grinder, and a silicon carbide wheel dedicated to sharpening the tungsten, an aluminium oxide wheel might do the job though? (somebody else will comment) either way you don't want to contaminate the wheel you use for grinding electrodes.
    Ideally Silicon Carbide (green wheel), and ideally keep it just for tungstens to avoid contamination. Aluminium Oxide will do the job too, just not as well. I have seen people using flap wheels on an angle grinder but it seems very awkward to me.

    When you sharpen the electrode it is very important to hold it in line with the wheel so any grind marks are along the electrode. Don't hold it at 90 degrees to the wheel, that will cause the grind marks to go around the electrode - that in turn leads to an unstable and wandering arc.

  14. #14
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    That's 8 metres long, do you really need it that long. You can get them in around 4 metres as well.

    Quote Originally Posted by Maxi77 View Post
    Thanks Gavin,
    is this the same thing basically without reg. I assume I can use the reg I have now that I use on C25 gas for mig?
    https://www.ewelders.com.au/unmig-8m...mp-17v-8mcp50/

  15. #15
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    I've never used a dedicated grinder setup just for tig or have I worked at a workplace that provided them. Normally just a bench grinder with stone wheel or belt linisher was used. For what most will be doing at home or even at work it wouldn't really be necessary? I guess if you were doing pressure vessels or something critical maybe so?

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