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  1. #16
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Lower Lakes SA
    Age
    58
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    2,607

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    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    When I was teaching the unemployed to weld, I'd get them to hold the rod in the touching position, so that as the electrode burnt away it would move along the joint. I did this as the start procedure to prevent the slag inclusions, as they progressed, the electrode would be lifted up, getting the weld down nice and neat.
    Hope this helps,
    Kryn
    Maybe you're right Kryn: I need to go back to basics and sort out my technique. Maybe I will try your suggestion.

    But no-one has addressed my basic question: What's the difference with a V joint that messes up my welds? My logic is it's because the slag has nowhere else to go. So I guess I need to move faster, and that means turning up the current, right?

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    211

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    Tight vee grove, the flux on the rod could be getting in the way and causing a long arc? Try to crank the amps up some more.

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

  3. #18
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Aus
    Posts
    24

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    I still prefer 7016's for this type of work, and if you're struggling to get a good weld doing it faster with iron powder won't make things better.

    Weld hot with a short arc, 60deg v prep. If you are too high and too steep you'll force the slag into the weld - think of the arc as a jet pushing into oily water (hope you get the analogy).

    Most of these issues I've seen are from excessive arc length and welding cold (too low current).

    You can also increase your back angle a bit to push the slag back more with the force of the arc.

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