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Thread: 0.6 mig wire

  1. #16
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    Another thing that just rattled around in the old brain is the insulator. This applies to any mig with the tweco gun or clones thereoff.

    Did you know the insulator can be put on upside down on some Tweco guns.

    When this happens it effectively blocks off the gas ports on the diffuser. Bingo no gas.

    The particular insulator I am referring to is the Fiberglas/ Bakelite insulator with the 3 rings . It has an internal thread on one end only and screws to the copper diffuser. It should be screwed on thread facing facing the contact tip.

    The copper shroud slides into position over the top of the insulator rings. The shroud will still fit if the insulator is about but you will not get gas.

    If you can weld 0.020" sheet to the gate with mig you will be a man to be admired.Personally I don't think it was done with mig but another process but I have not seen an example.

    A simple gas test can be performed by dropping off the wire feed tension ( so stop a hole in the hand ) and place your hand over the shroud hole. Pull trigger and you will soon know if there is gas.

  2. #17
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    I think the intent is to weld the frame which is around 1.6mm? Then the sheet would fit inside? Or have I got it wrong?

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  3. #18
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    I'd say find a scrap piece of RHS and have a play with welding a bit of that colourbond to that.
    I once had to weld some hinges to some bits of plate, and the hinge material would melt like nothing else, whereas regular mild steel of the same thickness wouldn't have any problem. Had to focus the weld on the steel plate, only really letting it gently leach onto the hinge (you're already aware of the method though, focusing the heat on the RHS not the c'bond)

  4. #19
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    Firstly, that Colorbond "post" profile is 0.9mm thick - it's a U section, as per post No. 6 on the previous page. From post No. 5, it seems the OP was trying to weld two pieces cut at 45 degrees to make a mitred corner. Even with exceptional fit-up, running a bead along 0.9mm material is going to be a hell of a bridge to cross. As for black soot, that's just the paint burning.

    My suggestion would be, if you're going to persevere with that challenging weld, try doing a series of spot welds, letting the heat cool off between each pulse, aiming at the base of the previous spot and filling in the keyhole that was created (and creating a new keyhole).

  5. #20
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    Here's some photos of what I've been playing with.

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  6. #21
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    In this picture I need to attach fig.2 to a post which will be what the hinge attached to. If you look at a colorbond fence it's pretty much exactly the same as a gate, but the colorbond fence post are replaced by 50x50 RHS and joined by welding not using Tek screws.

    It's basically top and bottom capping to to hold the colorbond fence panels in between the 50x50 post if that makes sense.

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  7. #22
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    Please disregard my comments about the gun & insulator as its not a Tweco type.

    The quick guide (below) if it comes out is usually mounted inside the machine.



    https://www.google.com.au/search?q=U...EDoF9kGrxWvRM:

    Note the guide starts from 2mm material thickness.and data for that size using .8mm wire

    V / WFS = 4/ 7 Volts / Wire Feed Speed = Volts -setting 4 Wire feed speed no 7



    The manual, in case you have not got it.

    http://www.unimig.com.au/userfiles/f...0%20Manual.pdf

    Also its not a bad idea to fit a fresh contact tip.

    Grahame

  8. #23
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    Two more suggestions
    Clean /polish the material under the earth clamp- shiny.

    Do not drag the gun - push.

  9. #24
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    Actually good point Grahame, I haven't cleaned at all where the earth clamp has been connected on any of the scrap pieces.

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  10. #25
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    Hi Geoff.
    Just a thought but if you place some steel sheet behind the joint and make it a lap joint so to speak you will get the look you are after I'd say. Rather than trying to butt weld paper which will send you crazy. A bit of 1.6 on the inside should suffice. A tig weld may be a better option if you have access to it

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  11. #26
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    Hold a plastic bag around the nozzle and check that it gets inflated when you trigger the welder. Open the feed rollers so no wire is fed whilst testing this.

  12. #27
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    Not 100% sure on how colourbond actually coat their materials, but in that first shot it kind of looks like there is a layer of paint (powdercoat?) over the top of a layer of galvanising? Seems like the paint has been removed, but the gal layer might still remain? Although there is none of the white death visible around the welds, but I suspect they've been wire brushed.

    Don't forget with a thin section like that, the weld bead will often drag anything on the other side of the material through to the top - so clean the paint (and gal?) off the underside as well, as best you can.

    If its 1.6, it is possible to run a continuous bead, although it can take some serious practice - there's a pretty fine line between big holes, and a slug sitting on the surface. If you'd like to get something else to practice with, ask an exhaust place if they've got a few offcuts of mild steel exhaust pipe you can have - generally 1.6mm wall, but no paints or coatings to deal with, just wipe any protective grease off with metho on a rag. If the colourbond is 0.9 (doesn't look that thin from the photos) as previously suggested, I'd say forget running a bead, just go with a long series of tacks - it can be hard enough running a bead on that guage with a TIG, I wouldn't even waste my time attempting it with a mig unless I really really had to.

  13. #28
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    A bit of trivia...Colorbond is paint applied to zincalume coated steel which then goes through a baking oven. (The fabricated gates may be powder coated after fabrication to suit. )
    The zinc coating is quite thin and applied to the coil by running the strip through a zinc bath and removing excess coating to tolerance with air knives. The coil is then put through the paint line which usually applies the paint with rollers or paint blocks swpending upon technology used.
    The idea is to not damage the coating and the zinc does not get reapplied after it is burnt off or otherwise removed. Powder coating is only as good as it can get to the exposed surfaces.

    Mick


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  14. #29
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    For the moment forget the 45 joints ,I think what you should be aiming for first up is running a bead say in the area where there is no join in the channel. Experienced people here will be able to read that bead and and advise accordingly.

    It must be prepared as shiny steel -no paint-no zinc coating before a bead is started. Mig will not tolerate contaminates of any sort.

    Mig ( wire) has no flux to counteract contaminates and therefore the molten bead will react badly with a poorly prepped surface.

    I have the sense that you are learning to run your mig with one of the more difficult tasks for a new mig welder operator.

    Another problem is the mig welder itself .While not necessarily a bad welder in itself, it is not built to the specs and standards that a factory welder is made to. I don't doubt Littlemick welded 1.6 with 0.8 wire but that his machine and not an apples against apples type comparison. Specs and standard vary widely.

    The cheaper home welder is is usually cheaper because of compromises in the number of voltage taps ( among other things) say5 in a lower end machine and 8 to 10 in a factory machine. Therefore it is less adjustable across the voltage range.

    I would not assume you machine will automatically be capable of doing the same as Littlemicks welder as the power supply may not be able to be adjusted low enough with 0.8mm wire. I am sure its capable with the .6mm wire but try all your options first.

    My advice would be try the above first and if that fails, then go back to 0.6mm wire.

    Grahame

  15. #30
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    Agree Grahame. My reference was using a cigweld 185 from memory in the late 80s. Metal was new as we were fabricating box trailers at dads trailer business so cleanliness was always there. When we did a repair, you spent more time cleaning and prepping to get the job to go together with less issues.

    Same with welding car panels in the same era. Short runs, manage heat with damp cloth, backing strip or lap joints. All to make the weld work when required

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