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22nd May 2017, 06:34 PM #16Golden Member
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Ok understand , I will probably get a smaller cylinder for tig and a larger one for mig . I will aim for a Mig first learn that and add a HF start Tig later . Most of the Mig Tig combinations I see are scratch start and from what I have read not so good for clean welds.
The volume of a pizza of thickness 'a' and radius 'z' is given by pi z z a.
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22nd May 2017, 07:51 PM #17Diamond Member
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22nd May 2017, 08:40 PM #18Golden Member
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Yes I have three Bunnings within a reasonable distance one very close . I have two other tool places that swap and fill cylinders have not checked the prices though .
The harder part is deciding on which Mig I should buy and how much I should spend . I'm not rich but I don't want to waste money on something that will not do the job well.
When I am not an experienced welder it's hard to identify which machine is best . I would rather buy a good quality capable machine that is just a gas / gasless mig and nothing else rather than a combination machine that does nothing really well . I have learnt one thing I am not interested in a scratch start TIG they look like they will burn electrodes like crazy , possibly a lift start but definitely a HF start TIG .
On Alibaba you can buy D size Argon empty cylinders from China $ 20 to 50 each if you buy 100 units plus freight and customs etc . So why are we being systematically robbed in this country when they can be purchased so cheap in bulk ? They could land each unit for less than $100 .The volume of a pizza of thickness 'a' and radius 'z' is given by pi z z a.
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22nd May 2017, 09:05 PM #19Diamond Member
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While it may seem intuitively true that a combo machine won't do both functions well, when you look at how they actually work, it's actually not necessarily true. A MIG/Stick combo machine swaps between being a constant voltage (MIG) and a constant-ish current (stick) supply. Each mode operates by sensing either the voltage or the current at the output, and adjusting the inverter drive to maintain the set point (volts or amps). With stick mode, it actually allows the current to vary from the set point in some circumstances, and that's what they mean by "hot start", "anti-stick" and "arc force" - those are the tricks that make stick inverters easier to weld with than AC buzz boxes.
As for what to buy, I've got an old-ish UniMIG combo MIG/Stick machine that ain't fancy, but I'm pretty happy with. Haven't tried the newer models, but most of their range (not all!) are rebadged Jasic units, who are meant to be one of the better-regarded Chinese welder manufacturers. I also have a recently-bought UniMIG AC/DC TIG machine that does do the job, but has a few irritating quirks and missing features that at this point stop me from recommending it, except for the fact that it can be got relatively cheaply. I also have a BOC Smootharc 130 lunchbox stick welder that's a brilliant little machine. If I was buying again, I keep on leaning towards the Cigweld gear, as I like the look of it, but have never used any of their machines.
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22nd May 2017, 09:20 PM #20Most Valued Member
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23rd May 2017, 11:37 PM #21Golden Member
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Well how expensive could it be when they can buy the bottle for $20 . I can't believe it costs $200 to ship each bottle . No we are being robbed big time in Australia when you see how cheap the same stuff is in the USA and they ship it in also .
The volume of a pizza of thickness 'a' and radius 'z' is given by pi z z a.
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23rd May 2017, 11:41 PM #22Golden Member
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- Apr 2008
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- NSW
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Granted a Mig Stick would be fine as most are that way but I was mainly referring to a Mig Tig combination machine . I will look at Cigweld also.
Had a look at Cigweld but could make much sense of the features they have they kept saying this in their descriptions . " and a host of other features in order to fully satisfy the broad operating needs of the modern welding professional". That is of no help to me what so ever . They do look the goods but I can't get details . They may not be interested in hobby users only professionals that have contact with their reps .
If I can't understand it I can't buy it .The volume of a pizza of thickness 'a' and radius 'z' is given by pi z z a.
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24th May 2017, 10:25 AM #23Diamond Member
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You can download the manuals for the Cigweld machines, and they're very well written (at least the one I looked at was). They look to have a 200A DC TIG machine with HF start.
That said, I've never used their machines. You will find a few people here (and in the Welding forum) who are keen on Tokentools machines.
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25th May 2017, 06:29 PM #24New Member
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- May 2017
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- Brisbane, Queensland
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- 9
Hey guys,
Just an update on my progress.
I dropped the Amps to 170 from 180 and upped the volts/wire-speed from 5.9 to 7.
cleaned all the welding edges with a wire wheel
and spot welded the SHS down onto the durgal angle.
Managed to get a decent clean weld with very little splatter, I took a little bit more time on positioning and dragging the pool, even managed to do a across section to a down section which worked out well too.
Tom3.jpg
Not the best, but working on technique
Tom1.jpg
Slag chipped away
Tom2.jpg
Cleaned up
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25th May 2017, 07:27 PM #25Golden Member
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- NSW
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Did you grind the duragal off first ?
The volume of a pizza of thickness 'a' and radius 'z' is given by pi z z a.
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25th May 2017, 07:55 PM #26Diamond Member
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Those welds look a bit cold - note that the edges aren't wetting in - the edges are something to look for as you weld. Also, with MIG, you only set the wire speed and the volts, not the amps.
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25th May 2017, 08:56 PM #27
Hi Tom,
Rusty Arc is correct ,it still looks cold
However our are improving mate. May I suggest some extra wire stick out somewhere around 30 to 35mm.
Also tweak the voltage control up a tad. We will soon get you to a level where all you will need to do is give the flux a tap with the chipper and it will just fall off and you won't leave dings in the bead from belting it with the hammer.
after a hit with the wire brush it won't need the grinder. You are nearly there.
Grahame
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25th May 2017, 11:21 PM #28New Member
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- May 2017
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- Brisbane, Queensland
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- 9
Thanks guys! so close
Yep - I always clean all the galvanized surfaces prior to welding, and also wear a decent respirator mask with filters rated for welding gases.
Thanks for tips
Cheers,
Tom
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26th May 2017, 11:00 AM #29
Maybe flux cored is not true mig , but if you need to work outdoors in a breeze , true mig is a complete waste of time and money as the shielding gas just blows away .
With practise it works and will stand abuse in industrial situations
Michael
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26th May 2017, 02:02 PM #30Golden Member
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- Apr 2008
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- NSW
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Gas/Gasless is a good ability to have because you never know when you have to do something outside like a trailer . I can fit a trailer inside my shop but some can't .
The first welds looked better penetration to me but I'm a learner also . Some people just seem to be naturally good at welding and others have to practice a lot more .
My Doctor says I have very high adrenalin output when stressed or excited and it makes my hands shake . Makes my stick welding much harder to get it neat and then my mate turns up and just welds like a expert with exactly the same setup but his hands are steady as . It does have it advantages like I feel very little pain in a fight or when injured at the time but later it hurts but for welding it's a big problem. I am hoping a Mig will make it easier with both hands on the gun. Once I get a Mig I am going to get some lessons so I don't start with bad habits .The volume of a pizza of thickness 'a' and radius 'z' is given by pi z z a.
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