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10th Oct 2016, 02:28 PM #1New Member
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Is Arc welder good for window/ door/ gate grill DIY project?
Hi All,
This is my first day on MetalWork forum (please don't get mislead by my username ).
I am planning to do a DIY project at home and fabricate security grills for my windows (at home). I bought a Arc welding machine like below and some accessories:
CIG Weldskill 140 Turbo Arc Welder CGW1002100
I had done a tiny welding job back in my school days, but it was just experimental. I have few very basic questions for the community on this forum here. Your help would be very highly appreciated:
(1) Do I do this job using steel bars or wrought iron (or something else)?
(2) Will the welding machine (I bought) be sufficient for this job or will I need an upgrade of some sort? Please suggest....
(3) Will I have to go for powder coating (after I fabricate) or a normal paint job will do?
(4) What would be the best place to buy the material (steel/ iron)?
And on top of all this, is my project even a good idea? Or should I go for a professional fabricator (they are expensive here in Brisbane, Australia).
Thanks in advance,
DK
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10th Oct 2016, 05:03 PM #2Most Valued Member
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you'd be better off posting this in the welding forum here but anyway...
1. I used steel 15 years ago in Sydney. Worked fine.
2. I think that welder is a toy but it might get the job done - probably oly need 2.5mm rods after all.
3. I painted mine - good epoxy primer and quality top-coats. I like Jotun primers and recently using Dulux QD metal enamel. You won't find either in Bunnings.
4. Depends very much on what design you choose to make - I used angle iron, flat bar and 10mm round bar. Not the most stylish out there, but adequate for my intended use.
PDW
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10th Oct 2016, 05:13 PM #3Banned
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I think the house will end up looking like a goal unless you do a lot of fancy design/fabrication work, I'd just get aluminium security screens? Steel rusts, regardless of coating because it will chip at some stage, aluminium doesn't rust and the anodizing lasts forever.
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10th Oct 2016, 05:18 PM #4
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10th Oct 2016, 07:08 PM #5Most Valued Member
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You can cut through aluminium with a butter knife, almost. Steel takes more effort. Not much more if people start using 18V angle grinders, but if they're going to do that, aluminium sure isn't going to keep them out.
Steel does rust, true. After 15 years, the ones I made are *just* starting to show a bit of rust. Not a bad life before a re-paint. I use better paints, these days.
As for the aesthetics, shrug. Everyone has an opinion. Personally, I deplore the necessity for the damn things but you do what you have to do with the time/money available.
PDW
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10th Oct 2016, 07:23 PM #6Philomath in training
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I had some fabricated grills powder coated and while that worked, I noticed that it thinned dramatically around corners. Paint as PDW suggested is probably cheaper and if properly applied will give better protection I think.
Michael
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10th Oct 2016, 09:21 PM #7Diamond Member
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Material and aesthetics aside, that welder will probably do the job, but it won't be as easy to get proficient at welding as it would be with a little DC inverter welder - they've got features that make life easier, such as anti-stick, and DC allows the arc to get a bit longer without extinguishing, which is handy when you're learning and have trouble holding a consistent short arc.
Aldi are currently flogging an inverter welder for about $150 - I'd be inclined to grab one, get on and use it immediately and if it turns out to be crap, return it within 60 days for a no-questions-asked refund.
If nothing else, I'd definitely be getting an auto-darkening helmet (which Aldi also had last weekend).
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11th Oct 2016, 09:50 AM #8Senior Member
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I'd buy from supersteel or one of the steel merchants ( southern steel etc) and have them cut your material to length.
bars and outer frame.
you can use square or round solid stock for the bars -
I think square solid would be easier to line up etc when welding it to a flat bar (or angle iron) perimeter frame.
make sure the spacing is such that a kid can't get there head stuck in there - I think there is a rule where a 125mm sphere should not be able to pass through the gaps.
mitre clamps are handy for creating the perimeter frame.
check google images for designs you like and copy it -
prime and paint
2.4mm rods at about 80-90 amps or even higher if necessary to get penetration.
in the end, a big tack on 4 sides of some solid stock will be plenty and you'll need some holes in the frame to bolt or screw the frame into to wall/window structure ( may want to round over the bolts or use a security head on the screws?)
if if you've got a welder you might as well use it !
good luck
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11th Oct 2016, 10:14 AM #9Senior Member
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My front door has a big glass panel beside it and its all hidden from the road and I thought it looked like an easy way in to the house.
I welded up a steel frame that was sort of decorative, and put it on the inside. My theory was if the break the glass, they won't want to have to deal with an unknown of how tough the screen is to get through afterwards in case it takes too long.
This one in the picture is made of 10mm square bar. It is stronger than it looks because i had to move a couple of the bars a few mm to make it look right and it took a lot of grinding and a big hammer to remove them.
I couldn't have done this so neatly with a stick welder. I used TIG and mostly autogenous welding (didn't use much filler) to keep the shape looking neat.
I have another set of bars just like a jail on the garage window, again on the inside. Just a square grid of 12mm round bar. It looks terrible, like a jail right enough, but I just mig'd or could have used stick because its not designed to look pretty.
As it turns out, they smashed through a big sliding french door round the side instead, so you can't stop them. It was toughened glass and the glazier thought the thief must have been an amateur because of the noise it would have made. No-one bothers though, as long as they are out of sight.
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11th Oct 2016, 01:23 PM #10
I've read though this thread, thinking "now I have a welder, how do I use it to build my project?"
There's some good advice, but and howl me down if need be, as an almost absolute beginner, what does the OP need in terms of power supply, welding tables, jigs, earth points, etc to complete his project.
Any tips?regards from Canmore
ian
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11th Oct 2016, 01:32 PM #11Diamond Member
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At a minimum, assuming the stock is cut to length (if not they'll need a grinder) a tape measure, square and a clamp (or vice-grips) would be enough, as well as a flat surface such as concrete. If you were doing a lot, a jig to hold the bars at the desired spacing might speed things up a bit.
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11th Oct 2016, 01:38 PM #12Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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The machine specs say a 15A socket/line is needed and I hope the OP has taken that into account.
No special table is needed , a piece of flat steel on a couple of saw horses would help lay the work flat and that will be important for door and window grilles.
It also means that the earth clamp may not need to be moved as often.
In terms of getting things square those magnetic welding clamps are pretty useful.
An angle grinder with a thin kerf cutting wheel and a vice to hold material will be needed.
PPE wise I suggest
- suitable eye and ear protection when using the grinder
- purchasing an auto welding helmet with a large viewing area that might even cost more than that welder
- a decent set of welding long gloves.
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13th Oct 2016, 10:33 PM #13Golden Member
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If you are going to paint, use 2 pack is better. Apply "etch primer" first, that way it bonds to the metal better.
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27th Oct 2016, 08:42 AM #14New Member
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- Brisbane, Australia
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Wow, I never expected this much response to my question. Thanks a lot to everyone. I have decided to first take a TAFE class on Basic welding. I have also done some research on Alibaba and found few designer bars that will make the grill look a bit less like jail . There are few suppliers that can sell them in smaller quantities.
Thanks a lot again,
DK
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27th Oct 2016, 08:46 AM #15New Member
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The aluminium screens were my first choice, however the really tough ones (Crimsafe for e.g.) are very expensive. Also they cover half of the window, the rest half (with glass) will need 3M screens or something.
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