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  1. #46
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Canberra
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    1,322

    Default In Conclusion

    So in respect of choosing a machine, which was the title of this thread, in the end, it wasn't so much the attributes or features of a specific machine, rather it ended up being a brand with a half-decent (but not exactly stellar) reputation, a pretty good price, but mainly very close-by after-sales support and some on-site training. If they guy they send is good, I expect I can probably pay the guy for further training if and as needed.

    As machines go, I think I probably would have been happy with the Tokentools, Everlast and Cigweld machines I was also considering, and I have no problem at all buying stuff online, but when the local option is good value and has so much added value, it wasn't a difficult choice.

    Since I'm now on to getting started on TIG, I might start a new thread, as it might be easier for others to find who start on the same journey in the future

  2. #47
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    N/A
    Posts
    535

    Default

    More heat = better pool. I often use the keyhole effect on thin material, for example. Move forward with short arc, as the keyhole forms (or the pool grows large enough) then move up and back slightly (you'll work out how far is far enough but not too far) and feed filler. Once your weld grows enough to the size you want (it might be a full second or maybe even more), stop feeding and move down and forward again.

    Down and forward, back and up, repeat.

    Upslope I don't use at all really. Use case would be preheating the material before starting your weld/progression. Or maybe if you weren't familiar with the material and set the amps too high you'd use pedal upslope to creep up on it rather than stomp. I guess that's the only time really for me, when I'm using weird pulse settings or something and worried that if I stomp I'll blow a hole.

    Downslope to cleanly finish a weld without a crater. I use it every time (via the pedal).

    I also use the pedal to almost but not quite quit when things go bad, like if I get caught with a burning hand or too little filler or I need to reposition or I'm going around a corner. Keep the arc going but not actually melting anything, reposition, reset and keep going. You can get a few seconds out of that technique.

    Speaking of holes, you're going to love tig for hole prevention. They almost never happen even on thin material and if they do they're generally easily repairable. I guess because you can see everything happening clearly and anticipate and prevent, either by backing off amps or stuffing filler or speeding up. Whereas I used to get them all the time with stick.

    Disclaimer: I've never done mig

    Disclaimer: pros, please excuse my misuse of correct terms

  3. #48
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Ballina, NSW
    Posts
    900

    Default

    If you've got the pedal connected, just turn the upslope and downslope to zero as the pedal makes those settings behave funny on some machines.

  4. #49
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    1,322

    Default

    I've started a new thread here: //metalworkforums.com/f160/t199...ting-ac-dc-tig

  5. #50
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Melbounre
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Hi Guys,

    Have been reading through this forum and topic as I'm planning to make my first purchase into AC/DC TIG. Been wanting a TIG unit for a while as I have a variety of small projects in Al and SS, my first one being the construction of a small gold sluice. My first welding purchase was a Cigweld Weldskill 170 ARC Inverter, and have been burning sticks for a while having fun, and happy with the result on mild steel. Where required, have gone to a mates to use his MIG and TIG machine. MIG was dead easy in comparison, and TIG was very similar to soldering fine electronics, since I have come from a background of soldering electronics, it does not seem too difficult to learn. My mate is also an electronics background guy and he is pushed me towards TIG as well.

    I've got a $500 gift card for Total Tools to consume at some stage, so I've been considering two specific units from them which are in my budget range.

    First is the Cigweld 200A AC/DC Welding Unit which they have at $1700. https://www.totaltools.com.au/weldin...plant-w1006200

    From what I can find, most owners of that unit are happy, some who like the thumb wheel current adjustment wheel on the torch and others who don't. Torch seems to be "bigger" than standard due to this, which others don't like. I've spoken to quite a few guys at Total Tools (different shops) and they don't have anything bad to say about them, they do only have a 1 year warranty, but service/parts are widely available and turn around is short. Seems to be more popular with home hobbyists. Foot controller is $329 which is crazy expensive.

    Second is the Lincoln Electric Powercraft Tig 201 AC/DC (https://www.totaltools.com.au/weldin...-torch-k690214)

    Harder to find reviews on this unit, but compared to the Cigweld, it has more to offer for slightly less coin. The 8m TIG cable length is a bonus, plus 3 year warranty and 20 saved memories would be very useful, plus it's $50 less than the CigWeld. The total tools guys say this is a relatively new offer from Lincoln, and have only been selling for the last 18 months, but has a better reputation when running off extension leads/generators. I have only found a few scant details about guys using them in the workshop for light sheet metal work and they love them, but unlike the other Lincoln stuff, there is no mention of it in the USA. Maybe a unit specifically for our 240v market...Total tools says Lincoln in Australia does not do there own repairs, so in general, it takes longer than Cigweld, but they have not seen this particular unit come back for repair.

    The other option is to use the gift card for other tools, and go with one of the Token Tools units which seem to be popular with guys on this forum. Like the idea of a combined TIG/Plasma cutter but have not done much research into it.

    Any thoughts from others with more experience on these units? My gut feel says go with the Lincoln and get a foot pedal....Just not sure...

    Cheers
    Luke

  6. #51
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    1,322

    Default

    The Lincoln Powercraft stuff looks to be generic Chinese machines with some Lincoln graphics, and in the absence of any kind of 3rd party review, they seem like a risky option. That said, if you can find someone who's had one for a while and likes it, it could be an OK option.

    I noticed the UniMIG machine I bought (from another shop) was on sale at Total Tools for $1,200 or $1,300 a few weeks back. If you'd wanted to save a few dollars it's an OK machine, but with a few downsides compared to other machines in its class.

    If it was me, between the Lincoln and Cigweld, I'd go the latter, but budget for a pedal as the torch thumbwheel seems impractical.

  7. #52
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Mole Creek
    Posts
    45

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RustyArc View Post
    If it was me, between the Lincoln and Cigweld, I'd go the latter, but budget for a pedal as the torch thumbwheel seems impractical.
    I've had the Cigweld for about a year now, and I'm still happy with it, but I would definitely agree with the above - the thumbwheel is great for adjusting current between welds, but I've yet to find a successful grip that allows me to use it the same way you would a foot pedal.

    I'll be adding a foot pedal as soon as the budget allows.

    Sent from my Lenovo YT3-X50F using Tapatalk

  8. #53
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Vic
    Age
    48
    Posts
    544

    Default

    Has anyone bought it from here yet?
    https://www.cltoolcentre.com.au/cate...g-and-arc.html

  9. #54
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    1,322

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jonno_G View Post
    the thumbwheel is great for adjusting current between welds, but I've yet to find a successful grip that allows me to use it the same way you would a foot pedal.
    My UniMIG package I got came with both a thumbwheel and a pedal. At this point I've been using the pedal for aluminium, as heat management in the work seems to be far more critical. For steel, I've been using the thumbwheel, but just to set the amps before I light up - not adjusting during the weld, which means no upslope or downslope or any of that, although I think I still get some post-flow. Actually seems to work fine on routine stuff.

    The only reason I do that is that to change between remote amps (pedal or thumbwheel) and panel amps requires holding the trigger for a while (without striking an arc) until the machine beeps, which I find a bit of a pain. It shouldn't be a big deal, but I wish it was a button to switch between modes.

  10. #55
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    6,446

    Default

    Guys there was tig welding L O O O O ONG before footpedals.


    People managed to achieve x ray level welding with out them you know. Determination ,skill and and appropriate techniques help a lot too!

  11. #56
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Athelstone, SA 5076
    Posts
    4,255

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Grahame Collins View Post
    ,skill and and appropriate techniques
    are some things I still have to aquire when it comes to welding lol

  12. #57
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Melbounre
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Thanks for the responses guys!

    I went to two shops to have a look at both the Cigweld and Lincoln units.

    Both are made in China.

    The Lincoln unit is made by "The Shanghai Lincoln Electric Company", and the user manual has the contact details for "Lincoln Electric Company Pty Ltd with the Australian address". This confirms my thoughts that the unit itself is made for Australia, and not sold anywhere else (also backed up by the lack of google search hits anywhere outside of Australia on that model). The unit is substantially smaller than the CIGWELD unit, about 20% less height, yet the user manual states 25% @ 200A DC TIG compared to 20% @ 200A DC TIG for the Cigweld. Front panel controls and main knob are OK, but have a cheaper feel and design. The TIG TORCH on the Lincoln has a paddle type switch, if you were holding it in your right hand, you could only use your thumb to push it from what I could tell. The torch looks OK, and is definitely smaller than the CIG torch, but would probably get hotter quicker? When you read the fine print in the user manual, the 3-year warranty only applies to some components in the unit, most are 1 year. One shop said the Lincoln is the way to go, the other said the opposite.

    The CIGWELD unit looks the better of the two units from a design point of view. Front panel knob and switches has more robust feel. The main drawback is the lack of saved memory modes, but this is not a source of income, so a longer setup time is not going to kill me. The TIG torch button is located pretty close to the thumbwheel switch. I can understand how could knock it accidentally when pressing/depressing the switch, however I like the button on this torch compared to the paddle on the Lincoln. In overall comparison, I think I would buy the CIGWELD and live without the 8m torch and saved memories.

    However, I've also noticed that TokenTools offer their AC DC Pulse Tig Welder 210 Amps & Plasma Cutter 50 Amps - Metalmaster Alusync 215 for $2k with 4m leads and 5 yr warranty. That is basically the same price as the CIGWELD + Footpedal, but you get the Plasma cutter in the same unit. Can't use my gift voucher of course...

    I have used Plasma cutters before, but not paid any attention to their power capability. Is 50A of Plasma cutting going to be enough for work up to 6mm (Al/SS) which is what I'll be doing..or it is a bit of gimmick and a stand alone higher power plasma is the way to go? I recall the Plasma cutter I use at my mates is a Mitech, we were cutting 8mm Bissalloy Bulldozer plate and worked well for 5 minutes before overheating. No idea what power rating in amps that was.

    Luke

  13. #58
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    67

    Default

    I have the Token Tools Metalmaster 215 and use its plasma cutter quite a lot. At 50 amps it cuts according to its spec: 16mm clean cut, 20mm severance. I haven't had it overheat at all although I've only pushed it continuously on arc. To cut 6mm stainless you should have no problems, probably turn it down to circa 35 amps. For sheet metal generally, the plasma does a brilliant clean cut. 3mm bash plates (for a 4WD) in the pic were cut using plasma, used a Tanjant circle guide for the holes.

    DSC02217.jpgDSC02218.jpg

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