Thread: Cigweld Easy Welder info

Hi Guys,

I've had a Cigweld Easy Welder (the orange coloured one) for ages now, however I have never used it because I learn't on a MIG and so have always used that. However recently I have been working on some projects with 10mm steel and so wanted to use the arc welder instead, plus I wanted to learn. I ran a few welds that were terrible, and after some youtube action realised what I was doing wrong (typing MIG welder trying to stick weld scenario). And I want to start doing more practice to build up my skill level, however I figured It would be better for me to know what settings I am running, and be able to reference electrode size, type, DC polarity, Amps, material thickness etc so I reference when i'm doing actual projects. Which leads me into my biggest issue, there are no marking on mine at all. All the paint is worn or rusted, and i'm flying blind. I have so far just done tests and adjusted accordingly till it worked. I'm wondering if there's anyone out there that has one, and is able to tell me which socket is + and -, what o'clock relates to what amp's per polarity? It would really help me out.



TL;DR: If you have a Cigweld Easy Welder, would you mind telling me what socket is + and -, what o'clock relates to what amp's per polarity? As mine has markings warn/rusted off.

Originally Posted by bubblegoose

Hi Guys,

I've had a Cigweld Easy Welder (the orange coloured one) for ages now, however I have never used it because I learn't on a MIG and so have always used that. However recently I have been working on some projects with 10mm steel and so wanted to use the arc welder instead, plus I wanted to learn. I ran a few welds that were terrible, and after some youtube action realised what I was doing wrong (typing MIG welder trying to stick weld scenario). And I want to start doing more practice to build up my skill level, however I figured It would be better for me to know what settings I am running, and be able to reference electrode size, type, DC polarity, Amps, material thickness etc so I reference when i'm doing actual projects. Which leads me into my biggest issue, there are no marking on mine at all. All the paint is worn or rusted, and i'm flying blind. I have so far just done tests and adjusted accordingly till it worked. I'm wondering if there's anyone out there that has one, and is able to tell me which socket is + and -, what o'clock relates to what amp's per polarity? It would really help me out.



TL;DR: If you have a Cigweld Easy Welder, would you mind telling me what socket is + and -, what o'clock relates to what amp's per polarity? As mine has markings warn/rusted off.

If it's a Transarc Easywelder then the work lead is the left hand one and the electrode is the right hand one (facing the unit). The amperage is controlled by pulling the central knob in and out (out for more amps). The knob turns clockwise to lock it into position. The amperage is shown on a moving strip. As far as I recall it's an AC output machine only - but it's been a long time since I had one.

Bubble, I have one of those, I will take a pic on Wednesday and post it on here, regarding the amp control and leads. GN is correct in what he said about the welder.

DD

Thanks for that Dingo. However if it's the same as what Gavin has described, it might be a different model. Mine has one fixed lead (with clamp) and then two electrode terminals . The Amp control is just a turn knob, that has two scales for electrode + or - (I again am assuming here).

I spent a while looking online before posting here, and managed to find a couple of small pictures so I can get an idea of what it would look like. But they weren't detailed enough to read the numbers etc.

I took a look at the transarc and that looks to be much different to what I have, mine is a portable unit.

Actually looking at the pictures closer, although I can't read the amp scale, it looks as if the two leads are just a high and a low output. So I'm guessing the clamp is always positive and both sockets are always negative. Or it's AC.

Originally Posted by bubblegoose

Actually looking at the pictures closer, although I can't read the amp scale, it looks as if the two leads are just a high and a low output. So I'm guessing the clamp is always positive and both sockets are always negative. Or it's AC.

It's more likely that the welder is AC only with 2 open circuit voltages, lower for normal use, higher for low hydrogen rods. A picture would help if you can get one loaded.

Originally Posted by bubblegoose

Hi Guys,

I've had a Cigweld Easy Welder (the orange coloured one) for ages now, however I have never used it because I learn't on a MIG and so have always used that. However recently I have been working on some projects with 10mm steel and so wanted to use the arc welder instead, plus I wanted to learn. I ran a few welds that were terrible, and after some youtube action realised what I was doing wrong (typing MIG welder trying to stick weld scenario). And I want to start doing more practice to build up my skill level, however I figured It would be better for me to know what settings I am running, and be able to reference electrode size, type, DC polarity, Amps, material thickness etc so I reference when i'm doing actual projects. Which leads me into my biggest issue, there are no marking on mine at all. All the paint is worn or rusted, and i'm flying blind. I have so far just done tests and adjusted accordingly till it worked. I'm wondering if there's anyone out there that has one, and is able to tell me which socket is + and -, what o'clock relates to what amp's per polarity? It would really help me out.



TL;DR: If you have a Cigweld Easy Welder, would you mind telling me what socket is + and -, what o'clock relates to what amp's per polarity? As mine has markings warn/rusted off.

Hi bubblegoose

The Cigweld Easywelder model over the years has been changed more times than political party leaders.

For starters if your unit has one fixed lead I can nearly guarantee it is an AC unit.( DC units have interchangeable leads) If there are nut and bolt terminals they are there for electrode cable attachment to provide either high and low voltage to start low hydrogen and stainless electrodes. Reference the google pics to work out which is which.Typically they are marked Low and High.

Its difficult with pictures at the moment because pictures cannot be posted on our forum at the moment due to some programme glytch (which is being worked on).

If you use Google and search< Cigweld Easy welder> after you click on images you be able to see all the vastly different Cigweld Easywelder models which span back possibly 50 years.

From what I have seen so far theres several different variations on one shape model and a few different shapes and sizes.I owned a Cigweld Easy welder in the seventies. It was a transformer unit wound with aluminium.Mine had a handle protruding from the front which was adjusted in/out and locked with a twist.It was a tallish box type unit on wheels with steel strap handles and had only fixed electrode and earth cables and that one model shape alone appeared in grey,blue and charcoal colours.That one won't be yours by the description you gave.

Other Easywelder models that followed were lunch box sized with a carry handle and front mounted twist lock handle that indicates a transformer.Another model about 200 x 200 x 400mm was on wheels and had a lift handle and a steer handle and sported a rotary twist lock amp set handle-again its a transformer.

The next models with rotary dial and some had an EC designation - Electronic Control but stiil transformer based but with some form of electronic rheostat.

Another came in 130 amp max and some went up to 170amp - turbo weld ( I think)

As far as settings go I would say the majority of these little machines ( those up to 130 amps) are suited to use 2.4mm low carbon steel ( mild steel) electrodes.

Therefore that's what I would be doing is calibrating the dial to the positions were the electrode performs well and call it done. Adjustments depend on the electrode size diameter , the position welded and grid supply. Wether or not you can use 3.25 diameter really depends on your grip supply.

Peak usage affects the grid output volts at your GPO and your little machine will work best when there is a true 240 volts available and your position on the grid supply line.

Hope this helps you.

Grahame

Originally Posted by Grahame Collins

The next models with rotary dial and some had an EC designation - Electronic Control but stiil transformer based but with some form of electronic rheostat.

Another came in 130 amp max and some went up to 170amp - turbo weld ( I think)

As far as settings go I would say the majority of these little machines ( those up to 130 amps) are suited to use 2.4mm low carbon steel ( mild steel) electrodes.

Therefore that's what I would be doing is calibrating the dial to the positions were the electrode performs well and call it done. Adjustments depend on the electrode size diameter , the position welded and grid supply. Wether or not you can use 3.25 diameter really depends on your grip supply.

Peak usage affects the grid output volts at your GPO and your little machine will work best when there is a true 240 volts available and your position on the grid supply line.

Hope this helps you.

Grahame

Thanks fro the Info Grahame,

Yeah that is the one I have. From the pictures online it's definitely a CigWeld Easy Welder Electronic controlled (EC).

It has a twist to lock/remove electrode holder, that can be placed in either a high amp of low amp terminal. late last night I managed to find some detailed pictures and diagrams for the unit. It's definitely AC, and both terminals are driven off the same transformer (just tapped at different points), and the dial controls both outputs at once. The two points are just used to get more range from the welder.

I Had a go last night with 10mm and a 3.25 electrode and it performed really well on the high output, I was able to get a solid fillet with what looks like solid penetration so i'm happy with that.

On the weekend I was welding 10mm with 3.25, and I happened to be on the low setting with the dial cranked to the max (because I didn't know any better), and I managed it ok with a good clean weld, however it took surgical precision to hold the arc at such low amps.

Pretty sure this is the unit you're trying to work out, had one of these for years and they're really good unit.

I used mine in the high setting 99% of the time using 2.5 and 3.25 electrodes.

High range reads as Change to Low Range-60-80-100-120-140
Low range read as 30-40-60-80-100
Left socket is Low
Right socket is High

Originally Posted by Acco

Pretty sure this is the unit you're trying to work out, had one of these for years and they're really good unit.

I used mine in the high setting 99% of the time using 2.5 and 3.25 electrodes.

High range reads as Change to Low Range-60-80-100-120-140
Low range read as 30-40-60-80-100
Left socket is Low
Right socket is High

Awesome info mate. Just one quick question, do you run yours on 230v 10A or 15A? The one I have has been modified for 10A use. I have 15A available, Just wondering if I should get the correct plug put back on.

Originally Posted by bubblegoose

Awesome info mate. Just one quick question, do you run yours on 230v 10A or 15A? The one I have has been modified for 10A use. I have 15A available, Just wondering if I should get the correct plug put back on.

I have ran mine on both but if on 10A, check that there are no others loads on that circuit and keep an eye the circuit to check that it isn't getting hot particularly if using the low range as that draws more amperage.

This is probably closing the gate after the horse has bolted but, for those who are still interested:
1. I traced the circuit out and have drawn up the schematic. It looks like the attachment:
2. The first component that may fail is the triac: BTA40-700B
You can buy this from a few places. ST still make this. Search for BTA400-700B on the Digikey or Mouser websites.
3. The second main part that may fail is the triac driver IC. In production, they scratched out the part number... But if you're dying to know what it is, it's a TFK E1007
You can still buy them on eBay here:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/124104775975
Mine had a fault triac driver. I replaced it, remounted the printed circuit board using fresh silicon grease on the triac. Siliconed the capacitor back onto the enclosue and it all worked!
Good Luck!

I realise this is an old thread, but I'm hoping those with experience with this welder might still be around.

I recently bought an old Cigweld Easywelder EC for welding thicker steel than my MIG can. It's the blue and white model and states a maximum of 140 amps.

The strange thing is that to run a 3.2mm electrode I need to set it to maximum power (supposedly 140 amps), and even then I'd prefer a bit more heat.

I've checked all the connections, reattached the electrode holder and earth clamp and soldered up some nasty breaks in the leads. The earth clamp is a bit dodgy but no worse than others I've used successfully.

Does anyone know why it would be working well, but a bit underpowered? Were these units not truly 140 amp and more like 110 amp? Or could part of the electronic control fail only partially so as to reduce the power? I wondered if the transformer could be damaged, but the primary winding is copper and looks good. The secondary winding is aluminium with what looks like paper insulation, so I wondered if it might have shorted at some point, but I believe that fewer turns on the secondary winding would decrease the voltage and *increase* the current.

Appreciate any thoughts!

First thing you need to check is you incoming voltage and how consistent it is, transformer welders are less forgiving that inverter models, second is "soldered some nasty breaks in the leads" tells me that you should through them in the scrap bin and replace them.

Definitely those leads sound dodgy.
Lay down a complete rod and then run your ungloved hand over both leads and clamp etc to see if there are any warm/hot areas. Those will indicate high resistance spots that will be reducing your current.
I assume you're running it plugged directly into the wall - not on a extension lead??

Steve