Results 31 to 45 of 52
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2nd May 2016, 07:35 PM #31I break stuff...
- Join Date
- Aug 2010
- Location
- Toorloo Arm, VIC
- Age
- 39
- Posts
- 1,270
Not mine, although I have seriously thought about building one - I like the concept. Like Grahams tow ball, but on a bigger scale!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_OnF6_V28DM
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2nd May 2016, 07:58 PM #32
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2nd May 2016, 08:49 PM #33Philomath in training
- Join Date
- Oct 2011
- Location
- Norwood-ish, Adelaide
- Age
- 59
- Posts
- 6,540
Just put a crank in the arm -
bowling ball.jpg
If you wanted to be really cunning, you could put a locking hinged joint there for the best of both worlds.
Michael
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2nd May 2016, 11:28 PM #34
Thanks michael,
The face plate in my case is required to turn on its radial horizontal axis.
Some welding procedures like circumferential welding make this necessary.
Grahame
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2nd May 2016, 11:59 PM #35Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Location
- Murray Bridge S Aust.
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 5,942
Grahame, would it be possible to cut a slot in the discs, to allow for your vertical movement, the pedal works on the bottom disc clamp the way that I see it?
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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3rd May 2016, 07:47 AM #36Philomath in training
- Join Date
- Oct 2011
- Location
- Norwood-ish, Adelaide
- Age
- 59
- Posts
- 6,540
Plan B - If you have the shaft as a screw in item (whether the shaft is threaded or whether there is a couple of grub screws does not matter), then you could remove the shaft, rotate the ball so the hole is facing out the side (between the discs) and then reattach the shaft.
Another possibility is to have the discs parallel but on say a 45 degree angle. The jack would need to be on that angle but could be positioned so that the extension leaver was still vertical. You should be able to get vertical to horizontal as well as rotate 360 around the shaft but just could not go much beyond horizontal on the far side.
Michael
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3rd May 2016, 09:53 AM #37Member: Blue and white apron brigade
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 7,182
It's not shown on my Photos but I ended up deeply counter sinking both sides of the hole in the plate the shaft attached to the ball passed through. This improved the range of movement considerably without detracting from its holing power.
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3rd May 2016, 06:59 PM #38Golden Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
- Location
- Cairns, Q
- Posts
- 666
A couple of handy adjustable light duty clamps, and for those of us who still do things the hard way, a soldering iron stand. The clamp stands can be fastened to the table if necessary.
Yes, I still have the kero blow lamp, but it's time to get into the 20th century.
Frank.
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3rd May 2016, 08:01 PM #39I break stuff...
- Join Date
- Aug 2010
- Location
- Toorloo Arm, VIC
- Age
- 39
- Posts
- 1,270
As another alternative to the ones above, you could mount the whole shebang in another stand that operates like a small car rotisserie, allowing the whole thing to rotate off vertical far enough that you can get the 'table' vertical. If one had a small porta power lying around, the remote pump assembly would make this a lot easier, avoiding the contortions required for foot operation as it got tilted over.
Hmmm... For that matter, its probably possible to do away with the hydraulics all together, and use some sort of cable and cam arrangement to clamp the ball in place?
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4th May 2016, 02:56 PM #40New Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2016
- Location
- Bundaberg
- Posts
- 7
After many years of frigging around with all manner of saw horses, benches, whatever I finally made a real welding table a few months ago.
I found a piece of scrap 8mm plate
I really wanted at least 12mm but couldn't find one suitable and a new sheet costs way too much.
Then welded legs etc with it upside down.
And flipped it over.
I originally planned to trim it to a rectangle but actually those odd shapes are quite useful at times, and anyway I like quirky.
I don't like metal vices on a bench because they are usually proud of the top and that stops you from rotating large jobs, so my two metal vices (offset and leg, the jaws are aligned in case I want to clamp something really long one day) can be seen mounted on stumps behind the table. I have however since mounted a 7" Dawn woodwork vice under the table, flush with the top so it doesn't get in the way.
The top is approx 2300x750mm which is large enough for most things I do, but I also have light-weight extensions in the same plane as the top that allow me to jig up larger jobs (up to around 2400x2400).
Here we see one of the workshop shutters being fabricated.
I'm very happy with this table, all it needs are a series of 16mm holes for various bench dogs, hold downs etc and I'll do that soon.
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4th May 2016, 04:26 PM #41
Thanks Graynomad,
That,s an ideal mount point for the mig wire feeder unit.The cable is kept almost straight by gravity and the unit itself is away from the level where sparks and spray are normally sprayed around by the angle grinder.
Do you have it on a pulley? If the humidity is high it helps to be able to remove the wire spool and plastic bag it when not in use to stop the wire rusting.
The table is a good area, ideal for the work you have on it.
Thanks for posting.
Grahame
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4th May 2016, 07:30 PM #42Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2013
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 229
This is a great topic, lots of useful ideas.
I find these multi axis positioners very helpful, they are very versatile and can be set up in any position (the design is also used by woodcarvers)
image.jpgl image.jpg
image.jpg
This potters turntable comes in handy for welding and soldering
image.jpg
I have tried keeping my welder under the bench, however the leads always get tangled, so I have made a tree for the welder as well as my tools (not finished yet)
image.jpg
Cheers
Peter
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5th May 2016, 03:24 PM #43Banned
- Join Date
- Feb 2015
- Location
- Oz
- Age
- 73
- Posts
- 459
I just have a few G clamps, drill vices and vice grips I use, my most often used piece of kit though is my multi angle, multi fingered gripper. it comes in left and right configurations and is remarkably flexible. Unfortunately it's showing it's age now and tends to shake a little and much of its flexibility and clamping strength seems to have waned over it's life but it's still usable. I can't take credit for it's design though, I've seen quite a few of these around in different shapes and P_20160505_133306[1].jpgsizes.
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5th May 2016, 03:44 PM #44New Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2016
- Location
- Bundaberg
- Posts
- 7
I made a temporary beam trolley so the welder can move along the C-100 purlin on the roof above. That was to see if the placement is practical. It is, so I now plan to make a proper beam and trolley/monkey.
Having your welder up high and easily moved around the workshop is a real bonus I reckon.
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5th May 2016, 09:21 PM #45
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