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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    South west vic
    Posts
    5

    Default welding cracked axe head

    G'day all, l have a "Keesteel 4.8" axe head that is cracked right along the crown/head (not sure of the correct terms, top of the axe) someone has used it as a sledge hammer obviously, anyrate what do l need to know about welding/repairing it back to its former glory.

    l have access to a welder and if really pushed can ask a boiler maker but he's really busy, so l don't want to ask him, l have done a little "stick welding" 30 years ago.

    l was going to grind out the crack into a "V" then slowly fill the void with beads, does that sound ok?

    Cheers
    Steve

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    6,446

    Default

    Axes are either forged or made from cast steel and steel can be welded. If its an older Keesteel its probably worth saving.I believe some old racing axes were Keesteel.

    However welding temperatures generated will very likely cause the axe to lose its temper.

    This means the axe may need to be heat treated and then re tempered.

    If the axe has been already used as a sledge hammer,has it been subjected to other abuse that could see it having lost its temper.

    It would be a good thing to establish the present state of hardness of the cutting edge.
    Try a file on the cutting edge and compare the "cut" of the file to that of some mild steel.

    One thing to try might be to weld it with the cutting edge immersed in running water. It is fiddly ,tricky and presents a certain level of hazard because of the danger of an electrical shock.
    < Usual disclaimer- common sense and following of best applicable safety practices are advised>

    A DC welder would be the most suitable using a hydrogen controlled electrode positive polarity. Only make your vee wide enough to allow access of your electrode to keep the heat build up a low as possible.

    If you can take your Vee down to the handle hole recess to give a full penetration .

    I take it, that is the location of the crack from the back struck face to the oval hole.Otherwise any crack left remaining will propagate more cracking.

    If the said axe does lose its temper talk to the fellows in the Smithy section.

    Grahame

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    South west vic
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Thanks for replying Graeme, here are photo's (sorry about the quality, no flash) of the said axe, it has a really thin crown/head and sides compared to other axes, l reckon it probably only had the one bad whack.

    l think l'll talk to the boiler-maker, with your recommendations, l can see me stuffing it up.

    l'll probably never use it (chasing a 3/4) but just have it as a wall piece in the man cave, do it up though.


    20150626-DSC00464.jpg20150626-DSC00467.jpg

    Cheers
    Steve

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    6,446

    Default

    Steve,
    If you don't intend to use the axe at all do this.

    Just run a fairly fat groove with the grinder and run a bead in it, then polish it off with a flap wheel on an angle grinder.That's only if your axe is never to by swung again.
    The first procedure was only intended in the case of using the axe, so it would not crack again and fly off the handle and hurt someone.
    It would look great with a new handle and a polished head just hanging on the wall.

    Check out the racing axe pics on Google to see what I mean by polished.

    Grahame

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    South west vic
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Thanks again Grahame, the heads come up a treat when polished.

    Steve

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