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Thread: TIG Welding Galvanized Steel
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11th May 2015, 05:54 PM #76Most Valued Member
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just done some test for my self using two settings 80amps and 100amps i welded 50x50x3mm not the actual stuff im working with (2.5mm)
50x50x3mm painted steel inside corner weld 80amps
003.jpg001.jpg011.jpg010.jpg
50x50x3mm painted steel butt weld 100amps too much penetration, this was only a tester and i didntclean it well (getting dark here wanted to pack up the shed)
009.jpg008.jpg
005.jpg004.jpg
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11th May 2015, 08:59 PM #77Golden Member
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Starting to look pretty good there gazza, still not cleaning off the metal enough in my opinion though.
Both you and Legion don't seem to tie in those corners. I find the best way is to either
a) put a big deep tack on the corners then weld from and to those tacks or
b) start of with your torch wrapped around the corner, then basically the first thing you do (rather than the last thing) is weld around the corner and then across the weld in front of you.
In both cases you'll get a good weld profile on the corners and no porosity, etc. for rust to start in.
Good to see the improvement
- Mick
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11th May 2015, 10:28 PM #78Most Valued Member
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I'd like to see a little more meat in your fillet welds too, they are a little more concave than I would like. Easily enough done by adding just a little more filler wire to your puddle to flesh out the weld.
The bonus here is that comments have passed the basics on how to get the job done and are now focusing on the finer points of your technique
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12th May 2015, 09:29 AM #79Most Valued Member
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thanks Mick yeah i didnt bother cleaning those test pieces much it was a pretty much rush and just to see how deep my penetration would get, i was in a rush because it was late afternoon when i was doing the welds and needed to pack up the shed
i can TIG corners i just need a little more practice changing positions while im finishing a bead run than onto the corner, ill get there
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12th May 2015, 11:35 AM #80Golden Member
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I like this advice, Mick. I will try it. I'd really like to consistently do full circumference welds with no visible stops or starts. I can do that on straight runs but not around corners. I'll need to work on left and right hand out of position. I think rather than this:
I'll try to sequence like this:
or probably this:
which seems more flexible and involves less flipping of the job, which can be annoying. Also less potential distortion but at a cost of more welds.
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12th May 2015, 06:48 PM #81Golden Member
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Personally, I'd do your first pic, but swap 3 and 4 around. The advantage of starting like I suggested, is that you end on a flat spot right on top of the start of your previous weld, with a bit of attention to detail you should hardly be able to see the join. Each to their own though - it probably makes little if any structural difference.
[edit] I always try and tack on the corners - if the piece is out of square, tack on the longest corner first, then adjust the gap under the others to get your piece square before tacking the rest.
Cheers
- Mick
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