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  1. #31
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    Aug 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by Karl Robbers View Post
    Glad to hear it's working out for you.
    25A seems low, but if it's working then run with that. Scratch start is an added degree of difficulty, but you sound like you're on top of it. With the potential crud you are dealing with, aluminium oxide, oil, rust etc, porosity is not surprising.
    Tig really is a nice process isn't it.
    i done as u mentioned with the bolts that were snapped off below the surface, i built up the weld as a blob untill it was high enough for the nut to be welded on and it worked great

    the tungsten sticks a far bit but after a few taps it lights up and welds great

    25amp has the snapped bolt melting after 4 seconds and by the time i fill the nut the sides are collapsing before i can get more filler in but its working and the bolt + nut goes a nice cheery red that last about 15 seconds after i finish

    ill keep at it i have 3 i think bolts left to do, each one is saving $88 from a shop doing the work so one more bolt removed and my TIG has paid for its self

    i have another good outboard engine ill be using that needs the thermostat replaced so i have to go thru this all again but lucky none of those bolts are snapped yet so hopefully i can use the TIG welder on say 15-20amps just enough to heat the bolts cherry red and crack the salt and rust build up in the threads

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
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    Brisbane
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    429

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    remember too that a large portion of corrosion (rust) is water....so heating the bolt not only causes expansion and contraction but it dries out and breaks down the corrosion.

    You may look at the welding process differently.....mostly when we weld we want to put as little as possible excsss heat into the job.

    Another thing that might be helpfull is left handed drills......these are used with the reverseable drill.......just drilling out the majority of the bolt or studd release pressure and with some luck and other measures the left handed drill may bite and wind the bolt stud out.

    I've never had any sucess with easy outs....but I have drilled out a few bolts & studs.

    sometimes if you drill the majority of the bolt out..without chewing up the thread you can get a small screwdriver, or a spike or a torque key down the hole, and use that to wind out.

    cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

  3. #33
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    Aug 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundman View Post
    remember too that a large portion of corrosion (rust) is water....so heating the bolt not only causes expansion and contraction but it dries out and breaks down the corrosion.

    You may look at the welding process differently.....mostly when we weld we want to put as little as possible excsss heat into the job.

    Another thing that might be helpfull is left handed drills......these are used with the reverseable drill.......just drilling out the majority of the bolt or studd release pressure and with some luck and other measures the left handed drill may bite and wind the bolt stud out.

    I've never had any sucess with easy outs....but I have drilled out a few bolts & studs.

    sometimes if you drill the majority of the bolt out..without chewing up the thread you can get a small screwdriver, or a spike or a torque key down the hole, and use that to wind out.

    cheers
    i think the hole down the center of the bolt helped with expanding and contracting plus the heat from the welding process would have pushed down the drilled hole, its working so far so ill keep at it

  4. #34
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    Aug 2009
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    just hit the nail on the head finally i worked it out, i just sucessfully removed 3 more snapped bolts all i needed to do was heat up the bolts while welding on a nut than let it cool off than heat once more than let it cool off for 1 hour 30mins and than rock the bolts back and forth a little than undo them worked brilliantly

    before i was only heating once than undoing the bolts which end up snapping

    i have two more bolt on the section ive been working on than another two on the exhaust plate

    removing the 3 bolts this afternoon has my new TIG welder paid off

  5. #35
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    Aug 2009
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    finally all bolts removed the TIG welder works great for removing the stubborn snapped bolts its going to be my goto tool now although i should upgrade later to a HF TIG as the scratch starting gets a little messy as u can see in one of my pics, as the tungsten stuck on innitial contact and i wiggle it off the torch jumps and had landed on the aluminium so ill need to go see the specialist to touch it up

    thanks to everyone who helped out with advice much appreciated

    i counted 19 weld attempts i lost a few extra nuts
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #36
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    Jul 2009
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    Melbourne
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    Just don't forget, when you re-assemble it, use some Loctite 771 on all the bolts

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by DocBug View Post
    Just don't forget, when you re-assemble it, use some Loctite 771 on all the bolts
    yeah im going to buy a tub of this stuff http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PENRITE-C...item2a16d5d11e

    it would come in handy for my boat trailer wheel nuts too

  8. #38
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    Sep 2010
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    Lebrina
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    Quote Originally Posted by DocBug View Post
    Just don't forget, when you re-assemble it, use some Loctite 771 on all the bolts
    I second that motion. 771 will absolutely outperform any copper grease and is the only anti seize I will use. I have seen components totally rusted away from exposure to acid water, yet the bolts protected with 771 would still unscrew. Whatever it costs, it is worth twice as much.

  9. #39
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    Apr 2002
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    Brisbane
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    Working arround boats...you gota put some sort of appropriate sealant, corrosion inhibiter/ anti-sieze on every damn nut, bolt and screw and rivet....every time.

    The problem is.....so many including a lot of manufacturers don't use any, at all...ever.

    cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

  10. #40
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    Sep 2010
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    Lebrina
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundman View Post
    Working arround boats...you gota put some sort of appropriate sealant, corrosion inhibiter/ anti-sieze on every damn nut, bolt and screw and rivet....every time.

    The problem is.....so many including a lot of manufacturers don't use any, at all...ever.

    cheers
    So true. Made worse by some outboard manufacturers using steel bolts instead of stainless.
    When using stainless fasteners, the anti seize serves a dual purpose, that of preventing galling between the nut and bolt threads. Stainless is noted for this characteristic, (stainless nyloc nuts are usually the worst offenders) and while it can be minimised by using bolt and nut of different grades, anti seize is the only sure way to prevent this.

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