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Thread: Long weld

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Karl Robbers View Post
    Standard structural clearance is +2mm and that will be plenty for what your needs. I probably wouldn't use stainless in this case as I reckon galvanised bolts - not zinc or cadmium plated, but proper galvanised, will be your best bet. Stainless bolts are a PITA and expensive too.
    Yes, galvanised bolts. Stainless reacts with galvanising.
    woodworm.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Karl Robbers View Post
    ......I probably wouldn't use stainless in this case as I reckon galvanised bolts - not zinc or cadmium plated, but proper galvanised, will be your best bet. Stainless bolts are a PITA and expensive too.
    Hi Karl, wy do you say SS bolts are a pita? What do you mean? Yes they are expensive I know.

    Sorry Dr Wo but I will disagree with you on this. The SS used for bolts does not react with zink.
    Civilized man is the only animal clever enough to manufacture its own food,
    and the only animal stupid enough to eat it.
    Barry Groves

  3. #18
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    Don't know if this is what Karl was referring to but SS bolts do have a tendency to gall and can get to the point where they completely lock up and the only option is to cut/grind them off.
    Cheers.

    Vernon.
    __________________________________________________
    Bite off more than you can chew and then chew like crazy.

  4. #19
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    I think you may be right Vernonv.
    Having worked with stainless a bit in the food industry, I will now always put some kind of lubricating paste (normally Kopr-Kote) on stainless nuts and bolts.

    Phil

  5. #20
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    I never noticed that but anyway, it is a mount once and forget.
    As far as the SS reacting with zinc, I know for a fact that austenitic SS that is 304 or 316 does not react with either zinc or aluminium, the cheaper 400 series that is magnetic does. Don't ask me why.

    By the way the weld is done and the two RHS are as straight as they were before welding. Thanks to all for your input.
    I used many bits of 2mm wire to keep the gap open, however the weld pulled in and the gap turned up to be 1 to 1.5 and hat to prise the wire out with pliers. No problem, lets hope now that the pickling cleans properly and the galvo sticks. I was thinking in using some solvent and compressed air to clean under there ahead of the bath.
    Considering I will also paint with epoxy, the gap will be real and truly closed if not by the zinc surely by the paint.

    The 60, 12mm holes in the two 65x5 flat bar were a breeze to drill with the magnetic base drill and a 12mm broach cutter. I am now working on the handrail and after it is off to the galvanising. It is still an unknown how much the ramp will make the pontoon list. I'll try to slip a bathroom scale under one end this weekend to have an idea of the weight or rather half of the weight. My guess, it is about 100k so far without the wood for the floor. I stood on the edge of the pontoon with my wife, total weight 150 and it barely moves out of level. It seems that the rubber fender and the mooring cleat on the other side counterbalance a tad. May be all I will need to find to level it after all the dust is settled, is two bigger cleat like this one or maybe a bit smaller http://www.alibaba.com/product-detai...093422512.html
    Civilized man is the only animal clever enough to manufacture its own food,
    and the only animal stupid enough to eat it.
    Barry Groves

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