Thread: Small welding job - Cash paid

Hi guys,

I am in the process of restoring a heavy outdoor garden chair - it looks like the cheaper bunnings copies but is solid, heavy and old - i.e the orignal that all the dodgy remakes have been moulded from. I think it's made of Cast Iron.

Two of the bolts holding the back have sheered off due to rust - well as I was onbolting the legs the bolts snapped off . I'm looking for someone who is skilled with a welder to unweld the two threaded bolts and re weld two replacements. They're not actual bolts as you can see from the picture but the thread component. One side threaded into the back of the chair and was welded in place whilst the other protruded allowing the base and the legs to pass through and then be bolted into place.

Its a small job but I'm struggling to find anyone who is interested to help via the yellow pages. If you're good with metal and are willing to help, I'm happy to compensate you.

On the flip side, if you know someone or a company in Sydney that does small jobs, please let me know.

I've cleaned off the rust so you can see what you're dealing with.

What part of Sydney are you in.

Nice looking cast iron seat end.

You don't actually have to weld that.

Grind it off flush, drill and tap a new thread.

You can then either put in a stud, or bolt up into it.

That's what I would do.

Cheers

Rob

What are the chances it is a stud screwed into a threaded hole?

I also would suggest to drill it out and thread it. Welding would be visible on the cast.

Dean

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

What are the chances it is a stud screwed into a threaded hole?

I also would suggest to drill it out and thread it. Welding would be visible on the cast.

Dean

Thanks for the responses guys and moving the request to the right area Mods.

I am based in Glebe - if that helps.

I actually think you might be right that it is a stud which was screwed into place and then slightly welded - you can see in the pics that it's been welded / pinned into place. If it wasn't I'd give it a crack at trying to back it out

I'm more of a wood working novice and haven't really played much in the metals arena - however I have a fascination with older style wrought and cast iron products. How hard would it be to drill out do you think? I'd have thought a bolt is pretty serious metal and that a power drill and a metal drill bit may be no match for it My fear is that I stuff it up in the drilling process (crack or snap off the bottom section which then gives me nothing to sink a new thread into.

Glebe may be to far as i am in St Marys.

Depending on the age of the chair the bolt material may be anything.

Power drill or cordless drill should not have a problem with being used.

A hss twist drill/s should have no problem with drilling the old bolts/studs.

If you are a reasonable woodworker you should have no problem in drilling out the old bolts/studs.

You would of course need to have an understanding of the processes to go through to achieve results.

Just to be sure I suggest that you use a drill made from Cobalt HSS such as a Sutton Viper. These are tougher than the general range available today. Being a woodworker I thought you may not be aware of this.

Dean

Hi pipeclay, when you say understanding of the process, could you provide some detail?

Thanks Dean - I'll have a look at bunnings.

can someone tell me what the threaded stud is called? Obviously need to buy a replacement thread, and just wondering what the name is. How do you re thread this back into the hole seeing the thread doesn't have a bolt head???


as I said.... I'm a wood working novice!

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

Just to be sure I suggest that you use a drill made from Cobalt HSS such as a Sutton Viper. These are tougher than the general range available today. Being a woodworker I thought you may not be aware of this.

Dean

Originally Posted by Dukebox

Hi pipeclay, when you say understanding of the process, could you provide some detail?

Thanks Dean - I'll have a look at bunnings.

can someone tell me what the threaded stud is called? Obviously need to buy a replacement thread, and just wondering what the name is. How do you re thread this back into the hole seeing the thread doesn't have a bolt head???


as I said.... I'm a wood working novice!

It is called a stud but I am not sure that you can buy them like that. Most studs available at retail stores would be high tensile and often include an unthreaded section such as is used for car manifold securing for example. I suggest that a length of threaded rod or all thread may be suitable. I am not familiar with the use of high tensile with cast iron of this nature although they are used in car engines quite a bit.

Have you tried to move the existing studs with a pair of vice grip pliers clamped tight. These are the best tool I have found for difficult stud removal. Just rock them to see if there is movement. If so try to carefully screw the stud out a bit at a time.

To secure the stud in the hole, if it is all thread, fit 2 nuts to the outer end and tighten them against each other then use the outer nut to tighten in the hole.

What Pipeclay is probably referring to is the reasonably accurate drilling of the hole at first and then the tapping of the thread. I would suggest that the chair part is clamped securely to prevent it moving. Cut the stud off close to the cast and grind level. Centre punch as close to the centre as you can. Drill out with a smaller drill first then with the tapping drill size. It is difficult to get the hole drilled in line. Then there is the tapping process. Ask for help again if you need advice with this.

Dean

Hi Dukebox,
It looks like it maybe a 3/8 Coach Bolt that was placed in the mould when the chair was cast, you can see a casting ridge in your picture.
The suggestion of cutting the bolt level with the base and drilling and tapping a hole to allow a stud to be fitted maybe you best chance.
If you get stuck trying to do this I am in Oatley so not all that far from you so you could bring it over and we can fix it.

Regards,
Keith_W.

Another alternative if you want to back the stud out and you have a dremel with cutting wheel - cut a deep slot in the end of the stud and use a big flathead screwdriver to back it out. This has worked for me in the past, typically better than using vice grips. More ideas - try to source a reverse drill bit if you are drilling it out. I have this set:
Grabit-Pro | Alden

which works better for me than regular easy-outs that I've used before (and broken off in studs before). No failures yet, touch wood. Alternative:

Drill-Out | Alden

I'm tempted to add that kit to my arsenal as well. You rarely need them, but when you do ...

Originally Posted by Legion

Another alternative if you want to back the stud out and you have a dremel with cutting wheel - cut a deep slot in the end of the stud and use a big flathead screwdriver to back it out. This has worked for me in the past, typically better than using vice grips. More ideas - try to source a reverse drill bit if you are drilling it out. I have this set:
Grabit-Pro | Alden

which works better for me than regular easy-outs that I've used before (and broken off in studs before). No failures yet, touch wood. Alternative:

Drill-Out | Alden

I'm tempted to add that kit to my arsenal as well. You rarely need them, but when you do ...

I'm intigued by your use of a screwdriver being "typically better than using vice grips". Is this due to being less destructive or to provide more leverage? I would imagine that my vicegrips (actual name) could break that stud off if enough force was applied. Just interested, thats all.

Dean

I've had vice grips slip before when a bolt is particularly stuck and you don't apply enough pressure with that first grab. And the stud/bolt has to be at least as thick as the width of the grips. Whereas the screwdriver/slot method, if you make that slot deep enough, won't slip and you can always use the grips on the screwdriver for added leverage. But I'm not a pro, that's just my experience. I do use grips often as well, also the branded ones.

Originally Posted by Legion

I've had vice grips slip before when a bolt is particularly stuck and you don't apply enough pressure with that first grab. And the stud/bolt has to be at least as thick as the width of the grips. Whereas the screwdriver/slot method, if you make that slot deep enough, won't slip and you can always use the grips on the screwdriver for added leverage. But I'm not a pro, that's just my experience. I do use grips often as well, also the branded ones.

Ok. Makes sense. I guess it comes down to what tools are available. I have one of those big square shanked screwdrivers that can be turned with a wrench.

Dean

Thanks guys, I will let you know how I go when I have a moment to give it a crack.

I had a close look at it in the sun today and I'm thinking backing it isn't going to work. Looks more like a drill job.

keith - I may take you up on the offer if im start getting a little shakey. My fear is that as I don't have all the right equipment that I make a mess of it. Happy to pay you and learn at the same time.

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

Ok. Makes sense. I guess it comes down to what tools are available. I have one of those big square shanked screwdrivers that can be turned with a wrench.

Dean