Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 15 of 42
Thread: CIG Transtig 150
-
12th Sep 2012, 07:44 PM #1Senior Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2007
- Location
- Near Rockhampton
- Posts
- 270
CIG Transtig 150
Hi All,
I have recently obtained a CIG Transtig 150 welder.
I would like to add a foot pedal control to aid my aluminium welding.
Can anyone confirm that this machine will allow the connection of a pedal?
I could just rewire the existing front panel pot out to a pedal but the remote control socket on the welder has 7 pins and the standard tig torch only uses 2 so there would seem to be some additional controls already wired.
If anyone has a manual or schematic for this welder I would really like to obtain a copy.
Thanks
John
-
12th Sep 2012, 09:24 PM #2Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- Location
- Adelaide
- Posts
- 75
-
12th Sep 2012, 09:36 PM #3Senior Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2007
- Location
- Near Rockhampton
- Posts
- 270
-
13th Sep 2012, 12:54 AM #4Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2010
- Location
- Lebrina
- Posts
- 1,910
Why do you want a foot pedal?
By this I mean, what are you hoping to gain by adding a foot pedal? They aren't a magic bullet to solve all problems and in reality are really only useful when performing fixed bench work.
Just something to consider.
-
13th Sep 2012, 05:13 PM #5Senior Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2007
- Location
- Near Rockhampton
- Posts
- 270
I'm finding that if I have the current high enough to get the weld pool started in a reasonable time, as I weld along I have to travel to fast to prevent excessive melting.
Seems like a pedal or control on the torch would make life easier.
As most of my work will be at the workbench the pedal gets my vote for best solution.
John
-
13th Sep 2012, 09:25 PM #6Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- Location
- Adelaide
- Posts
- 75
with out the foot pedal, the machine is a 2T operation, with no up slope or down slop, creater current, pulse or any other settings, just a simple pre flow, post flow and main current selection.
I also have a scanned copy of the user manual, just trying to work out how to put it up on here
-
13th Sep 2012, 09:57 PM #7Senior Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2007
- Location
- Near Rockhampton
- Posts
- 270
-
6th Jul 2013, 10:49 PM #8Novice
- Join Date
- Apr 2009
- Location
- Parkdale VIC
- Posts
- 17
Help my Transtig 150 is not working
Hi I am having a horror run with Transtig welders at the moment. I recently purchased a EMF 250 Transtig which is in great condition but its too big for me and won't fit in my workshop. Apparently this works just fine and hasn't seen too much work as it was a Tafe machine. So then I purchased a later model Transtig 150 single phase and the right size for what I am looking for BUT it does not want to work. When it is switched to Arc mode I can't strike an arc to weld MMA. When I switch it to TIG (I have no torch just yet as it came with the wrong one) it will strike an arc using the MMA leads and rod. It will strike an arc without pressing the pedal, when I switch it to Tig mode it makes a funny fluttering noise which I assume is the HF circuit.
Can anybody point me in the right direction to get this fixed? I have opened it up and inspected the PCB and hardware and nothing seems to be burnt or pitted all connections seem to look good. I think there has been a couple of iterations from Cigweld since my unit was built but it was working OK from what I was told.
Can anyone help me to get this unit fixed in Melbourne? I don't want to have to scrap it or get rid of it as it is pretty clean and is a good piece of Aussie engineering. One thing I have noticed is that one of the cables used for switching polarity on the front of the unit is scorched at the plug end, I can't imagine that this would be an issued however it is worth noting as it seems to be the only thing that remotely looks burnt.
any help much appreciated.
cheers
-
6th Jul 2013, 11:30 PM #9New Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2009
- Location
- Victoria
- Posts
- 8
-
7th Jul 2013, 03:04 PM #10Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- Location
- Adelaide
- Posts
- 75
Totally forgot about this thread and to post up those pin out numbers. il try find where i wrote it down then post it up
-
7th Jul 2013, 03:08 PM #11Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- Location
- Adelaide
- Posts
- 75
start with the basics, fit up a proper tig torch and argon, that fluttering noise you hear is the HF circut working and it should then strike the arc and start to weld, maybe the points gap mite need adjusting, i sent you a PM about the user manual, hopefully that will be of some help to you
-
9th Jul 2013, 10:02 PM #12Novice
- Join Date
- Apr 2009
- Location
- Parkdale VIC
- Posts
- 17
Thanks!
Thanks!
PM replied to, will see what the manual says.
Cheers
-
16th Jul 2013, 11:45 AM #13Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2013
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 26
Manual
Might as well post this up
Was given freely to me by CIG
Bruce
-
16th Jul 2013, 10:23 PM #14Novice
- Join Date
- Apr 2009
- Location
- Parkdale VIC
- Posts
- 17
Thanks
Thanks!! Need to get a hold of a Tig torch that fits to try it out.
Will let you know
-
21st Jul 2013, 10:29 PM #15Novice
- Join Date
- Apr 2009
- Location
- Parkdale VIC
- Posts
- 17
Help? The update
So all, thanks for all the replies and posting of manuals.
i finally got hold of an air cooled tig torch and hooked up the Transtig 150. What if found was that the per and post flow timers and gas solenoid all work fine. The bad part is that it will strike an arc in tig mode when the torch button is pressed but the arc is so small and week that is doesn't even trip my auto shade helmet, the arc pulsates and looks similar to a spark plug when you are testing it out side of your lawn mower engine. It leaves a small burn mark on the surface of the metal like when you drag your stick welding rod quickly over a surface.
pcan anybody offer any advice or shed some light onto where there might be an issue? Fans work when it's turned on, it won't strike an arc when stick mode is selected, gas solenoids work, it doesn't trip breakers when I turn it on, it doesn't make much difference to the arc struck in tig mode when I vary the current knob. I have opened it up and looked for any obvious signs of burnt or defective components but she is clean inside. Circuit boards look good as do the transformers. I know this is not definitive however I am a bit lost as to what else to do.
any help would be much appreciated as this is a great little machine and perfect size being single phase as well.
thanks!
Similar Threads
-
Transtig 250 EC manual wanted
By silash77 in forum WELDINGReplies: 8Last Post: 12th Nov 2012, 04:48 PM -
Transtig 180 ac/dc welder
By kr_cf in forum WELDINGReplies: 47Last Post: 25th Oct 2012, 09:40 PM -
Transtig 180 issues, HELP PLEASE!!!!
By trav-ke55 in forum WELDINGReplies: 3Last Post: 3rd May 2009, 02:15 PM -
FS: Transtig 180
By ISL33P in forum METALWORK GENERALReplies: 8Last Post: 25th Jun 2007, 10:10 PM