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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Armidale NSW
    Age
    47
    Posts
    872

    Default

    Sounds to me like you don't have any welding power and just some HF start (i.e. the spark plug arc).

    Could be the main transformer is dead ... or it could just be a loose/broken connection.
    Cheers.

    Vernon.
    __________________________________________________
    Bite off more than you can chew and then chew like crazy.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Parkdale VIC
    Posts
    17

    Default Light bulb!

    Thanks for the reply. That makes so much sense! Just need to know how to test and check transformers. Any clues?

    there may be hope for the old girl yet.

    will keep you posted.

    cheers

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    8

    Default

    I had a similar sounding problem when I first got my 150, and it turned out one of the Dinse plugs (where the welding leads join the welder) wasn't making good contact. I just turned it around until the contact was solid.
    Might also be worth double checking the ground clamp is making good contact with your work.
    cheers. Peter

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Parkdale VIC
    Posts
    17

    Default

    Thanks for the heads up on that. I actually noticed that one of the plugs looks like it has arced and even melted the insulation a bit. Might see if I can get a new cable for it maybe?

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Armidale NSW
    Age
    47
    Posts
    872

    Default

    You can check the output with a multimeter, but you'll need to eliminate loose/bad connections first, as they will fool you into thinking all is well (or possibly all is broken ).

    Just put the welder into stick welding mode (i.e. no HF) and then measure the voltage between the electrode and work earth terminals. It should be around whatever the rated out put voltage is.

    EDIT : The OC voltage should be either 55V AC or DC depending on the current settings.

    I have been thinking about it a little more and if the TransTig 150 is anything like the 250 circuit wise (I have a 250) the main transformer feeds power to the rest of the welder (gas solenoids, HF, etc, but not fan). So if they are working, then there is a good chance that the transformer is OK and it's just a dodgy connection.
    Cheers.

    Vernon.
    __________________________________________________
    Bite off more than you can chew and then chew like crazy.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Parkdale VIC
    Posts
    17

    Thumbs down Further update maybe its all over

    I changed out the melted looking wire from the SCR to the change over panel on the front, got a new Dinse plug for BOC as well, point to note is that BOC supplied plugs are shorter than the originals and don't seem to tighten up!

    Anyway put it all back together turned it on and again no arc set up for tig and same story, looks like just HF no welding arc. Solenoids working perfectly and it seems the current control potentiometer works as when I turn this up my spark plug machine generates a slightly larger spark.
    Then to top things of I got my trusty Fluke out to measure the voltage across the outputs and measured about 2 volts. Whet away to get some lunch thought I would measure the voltage again but some how I had switched it to tig and when I hooked up my meter, well needless to say my faithful Fluke I think has gone to god so annoyed at myself.


    not sure what to do next, thinking my machine might have become an expensive door stop only valuable for the copper inside. Thanks to all members suggestions so far. In the spirit of wanting to do my Fluke proud is there anything at all I could check or dare I says it any recommend people to talk to in Melbourne about it. I don't really want to have to get rid of it.

    thanks guys looking forward to hearing back form anyone.



    cheers

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Rockhampton
    Posts
    177

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by romerod View Post

    needless to say my faithful Fluke I think has gone to god so annoyed at myself.
    Sorry to hear about the demise of your Fluke.

    Have you checked the three small fuses on the back panel. One is for the HF circuit so it is obviously ok. Check the other 2.

    I did have a problem with my Transtig 150. The welder stopped and the fault light was flashing indicating an overheat situation.
    Turns out that the sensor in the output choke had failed.

    Don't know if any of this helps. Further diagnosis might be possible by carefully measuring voltages inside the machine but as with anything mains powered caution would be required.

    John

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Parkdale VIC
    Posts
    17

    Default Still no big spark


    Hi guys, been a bit busy with work and haven't been playing with the old Tig for the moment. Thanks to the replies so far. On the plus side I managed to repair my Fluke! It has a sneaky fusible resistor that had blown, thanks to the net I found a similar replacement and it's all good

    Can't say the same for the old tig though. So have gone through some of the suggestions and still no luck, when in stick mode and measuring across the terminals there is 0V. It's got me thinking though in these transformer electronic machines how does the pot vary the welding current? In the old school transformer machines I understand the core is moved to alter the output, but in these newer transformer machines there is only the pot???

    No sure what to check next seeing that the HF seems to work as does the fans, pre and post timers (gas solenoid clicks). Wondering if it is an electronic gremlin and where to start looking, was thinking maybe the actual pot itself??? Trying to figure the logic that I get a HF start and can here the HF running, I think in these machines the HF switches off after the arc is generated. In my machine there it just doesn't turn off but strangely it is always running!!! In the machine I have used at tafe (CIGWELD TRANSTIG 275) which is the bog brother to my machine, you here the HF only when you press the pedal, then it turns off after the arc is established. I am wondering if this is a clue.

    Thanks again for the replies looking forward to any other pearls of wisdom on this unit.

    Cheers

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Lebrina
    Posts
    1,293

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by romerod View Post

    Can't say the same for the old tig though. So have gone through some of the suggestions and still no luck, when in stick mode and measuring across the terminals there is 0V. It's got me thinking though in these transformer electronic machines how does the pot vary the welding current? In the old school transformer machines I understand the core is moved to alter the output, but in these newer transformer machines there is only the pot???

    No sure what to check next seeing that the HF seems to work as does the fans, pre and post timers (gas solenoid clicks). Wondering if it is an electronic gremlin and where to start looking, was thinking maybe the actual pot itself??? Trying to figure the logic that I get a HF start and can here the HF running, I think in these machines the HF switches off after the arc is generated. In my machine there it just doesn't turn off but strangely it is always running!!! In the machine I have used at tafe (CIGWELD TRANSTIG 275) which is the bog brother to my machine, you here the HF only when you press the pedal, then it turns off after the arc is established. I am wondering if this is a clue.

    Thanks again for the replies looking forward to any other pearls of wisdom on this unit.

    Cheers
    When welding with AC current, all TIG welders need the HF running constantly due to the arc extinguishing and re establishing every cycle between DC+ and DC-, using DC current HF isn't even needed to start the arc, but is a nice user friendly feature, therefore it can turn off after the arc is established. According to the instructions for your machine, it would seem that there is some internal means of switching the HF off after the arc has initiated. Transtig 250's and 275's have a user selectable switch for this, but yours seems to be inbuilt.
    If the HF is running constantly, that means your machine is coupled for AC TIG welding, (as per P7 of the manual attached in post #13). Try turning the amps flat out on AC TIG, with gas and earth connected up of course, hold the button down so HF is working and gas flowing and attempt to start an arc on a piece of material. Keep shortening the distance between the electrode and the work, you may almost need to strike an arc as per stick welding. See if an arc initiates then. When I got my Transtig 250, that was the only way it would strike an arc, (despite the previous interstate owner telling me how well it worked etc etc). With a steady hand I could achieve an arc down to a bit below the half setting on the dial.
    I strongly suspect you have a blown board. My Transtig 250 had similar symptoms and the OCV dropped off massively as the dial was turned down to lower amperages.
    Sounds like the electronic gremlins have run amok.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Parkdale VIC
    Posts
    17

    Default Thanks for the help. She's sold

    Hi guys thanks for all of the replies and help. I had no luck with all of my fault finding so I bit the bullet and sold it. Hopefully the next guy will have more luck than I did.

    thanks again for all the help.


    cheers

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    south australia
    Posts
    1

    Red face

    Quote Originally Posted by romerod View Post
    Hi guys thanks for all of the replies and help. I had no luck with all of my fault finding so I bit the bullet and sold it. Hopefully the next guy will have more luck than I did.

    thanks again for all the help.


    cheers
    Hi All,
    I know this is an old thread, but I will still add my 2 cents worth for anyone else with this same problem (Transtig 150).
    I have the same model which developed the very same issue - seemingly no welding current but all other functions OK (ie gas valve and HF working).
    After several hours of fault finding - I found the culprit - a quad op-amp chip faulty which has since been replaced including a small mod to reduce the chance of a repeat failure. The part was a 14 pin LM324 chip (IC1 on the control board - behind front control panel). Part cost is around $2 but requires some fine desoldering and soldering. The small mod was a link (wire) between 2 pins (pin 10 and pin 12 - you can find the LM324 data sheet to identify the pinout of this chip).
    I hope this is helpful to someone as these units are well built and repairable.
    Cheers.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Parkdale VIC
    Posts
    17

    Default Little too late for me :-(

    Hi Sibrand,

    I was just searching the forums and came across my old thread on the Transtig 150. Seems like such a simple fix, I wish I still had it now as it was a well sized machine for what I want. I ended up buying a Transtig 275 which was ex Brisbane Gateway Tafe College in great condition. Issue is its 3 phase which I have however the machine is BIG!!! I will keep your post in mind if I ever come across one again, I notice they are selling for some big dollars on eBay at the moment.

    I am trawling for a pule module for one of these Transtig units, have you ever come across one or do you think it is something that can be built? There is not much detail around. It's a great unit this is probably the only function it is missing.

    Anyways thanks again for your insight maybe someone else can fix their machine thanks to you!!

    Cheers

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Lebrina
    Posts
    1,293

    Default

    You've definitely stepped up to a much better machine in the 275 and you won't be sorry.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    24

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sibrand View Post
    Hi All,
    I know this is an old thread, but I will still add my 2 cents worth for anyone else with this same problem (Transtig 150).
    I have the same model which developed the very same issue - seemingly no welding current but all other functions OK (ie gas valve and HF working).
    After several hours of fault finding - I found the culprit - a quad op-amp chip faulty which has since been replaced including a small mod to reduce the chance of a repeat failure. The part was a 14 pin LM324 chip (IC1 on the control board - behind front control panel). Part cost is around $2 but requires some fine desoldering and soldering. The small mod was a link (wire) between 2 pins (pin 10 and pin 12 - you can find the LM324 data sheet to identify the pinout of this chip).
    I hope this is helpful to someone as these units are well built and repairable.
    Cheers.
    I just picked up a transtig 150 listed as not working suitible for parts, i havent had a chance to have a look at the machine yet, but hopefully its the same fix as this.

    How is your machine performing now with the fix after a few months now!!

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    24

    Default

    Finally got around to having a look at the 150 transtig that i bought last year listed as not working.

    Good news is it works, strikes a arc and welds in stick mode, welds in tig mode, both DC and AC, only problem seems to be with the HF circut, sometimes the hf will work, but most of the time to get it to weld you have to hold down the trigger switch and manually strike a arc in tig mode, as soon as the arc is struck the gas soldenoid kicks in.

    I havent checked the spark gap yet, il do that when i pull the covers off for a look inside.

    All 3 fuses on the rear dont look to be blown either but il put my multimeter accross them just to be sure.

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