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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Adelaide Hills
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    8

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    Well from a total novice I can say that the only way I've managed to get two pieces of steel to stick together without frightening the Ka-Ka out of me was by using a gas-less MIg. Yes the consumables are expencive but if your not very good at welding (me) and only do it very rarly (me again) then this makes life so much easier.

    For big jobs I get by Brother in Law who's a Boiler maker.

    I would also like to add to other when they say dont skimp on safety stuff, and those magnetic clamps - work great mate.

    Himzo.
    There's no such thing as too many Routers

  2. #17
    scooter's Avatar
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    Dodgy brother

    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Outer Melb SE suburb, Vic
    Age
    54
    Posts
    719

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    Quote Originally Posted by echnidna
    I thoroughly recommend an AUTOMATIC welding Helmet - much easier and safer than normal welding helmets. Mine cost the same as the welder cost ($99 each on special)
    Bob, what is the darkening time (usually < 1 millisecond) of your mask. Are you still happy with it?


    Cheers...........Sean the crusty slag


    The beatings will continue until morale improves.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    157

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    Sean, They are OK for home workshop or occaisional welding. But if you burn two boxes a day forget it, well thats my experience anyway.

    Cheers
    Squizzy

    "It is better to be ignorant and ask a stupid question than to be plain Stupid and not ask at all" {screamed by maths teacher in Year 8}

  4. #19
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    Dodgy brother

    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Outer Melb SE suburb, Vic
    Age
    54
    Posts
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    Thanks squizz, would only want it for v occasional home use so could be OK, will check them out sometime.


    Cheers........Sean, who is auto darkening, just drop a router bit


    The beatings will continue until morale improves.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Sydney,Australia
    Posts
    174

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    I learnt to weld with a 'stick' arc welder, and eventually I could weld 18ga (1.2mm) sheet without blowing too many holes in the join. I had a bit of a windfall, so I bought a small MIG welder, just a basic one with 4 position switches. Also had years of fun, but I found I wasn't doing enough welding to justify paying CIG/BOC rent on the bottle and I'd nearly worn out the moving parts. So I'm back to a baby 10amp arc welder for odd jobs.

    When buying a hobby level (10amp) welder, or even a 15 amp semi pro unit, keep an eye on the 'duty cycle' - in warm weather specially, you can over heat the electronics of the unit, and if its a good one, it will shut itself down for 30 mins or so until the heat dissapates, so you have time for a coldie. IF its a cheapie POS then the blue smoke comes out & it works no more. Some smaller welders have a fan assist for cooling.

    Also look at how the amperage is adjusted - some are just a rocker switch for 'full' & 'half', others have an infinitely adjustable transformer (toroidal) over their whole range. If you are going to be welding thin stuff, say less than 3mm, get the infinitely variable.

    I haven't given Oxy a go, but a mate is very good with it & swears by TIG welding, but doesn't care of MIG. It seems that 'stick' & MIG go together, as Oxy & TIG go together - Oxy/TIG is certainly quick to change from one type of metal to another, but I think Arc/MIG is easier to pick up.

    When welding, try to avoid light coming from behind you - I did most of my work in an open fronted shed & I found working with back lighting to be a PITA as it became very hard to see what you were doing. Depending on the welding helmet you get, you may want a job spot light to see what you are doing & avoid welding the bench instead of the job ;-)

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    1

    Question

    im looking to build a dune buggy and will be needing to weld on some engine mounts, a few suspension pieces some mounts and similar. possibly some tubing on the framework. what kind of welding would be best for that? and what kind of equipment would you suggest? amps? is there a portable one that could hook to a car battery/engine(like if the engine is running on the car)?
    Thnx
    Eric

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    157

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    Eric, crude emergency arc welders can be fashioned to run off a couple of car batteries for very short periods. Mig is the go for most things automotive. Hiring a small unit is probably your best option for all the reasons discussed above. After you have hired it, and if you like it, then you can keep an eye on the auctions for a secondhandy....what ever turns your crank.

    Just a note on Tig and changing materials. Ferrous materials (stainless) require DC welding current and non ferrous (Ally) require AC welding current on tig machines. Therefore a good allrounder tig machine will be a transformer machine that provides AC, DC+ and DC- welding current. Somewhat more expensive.

    Cheers
    Squizzy

    "It is better to be ignorant and ask a stupid question than to be plain Stupid and not ask at all" {screamed by maths teacher in Year 8}

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